Jdmkids Manny

Hello H-T, I just got done swapping a b16a2 into my EK4.

However, I keep getting a code 21.

I've checked and redid all grounds.

I've re soldered whatever wire might have been twisted together on the harness.

I've tested for continuity and checked the vtec spool solenoid wire running to the pin, it gets 30 ohms.

The vtec was working before, So I'm just trying to figure out now because with further inspection I pulled The cluster and found the circuit board had a tear on the connection where the cel light bulb sits.

I was reading up online about similar issues and some say the speed sensor or the 5151 transistor in the ecu might be bad.

And just to add, at one point in time when I was fiddling with the vtec solenoid wire in it's connection/connector the code 21 had went off, but eventually came back.

I've also put 12v power to the vtec solenoid wire and I hear clicking, so it works, the idle changes and everything.

Please note my engine does not have an oil pressure sensor and I have a p2t ecu.

I've checked while someone beside and me driving passing the crossover when vtec kicks and I'm not getting a 12 v signal. I've cleaned the solenoid and everything

it's an obd2 motor with no oil pressure sensor so the ecu doesn't look for that signal.

I've checked the circuit board on the ecu and I'm not getting continuity from the board to the vtec spool solenoid terminal wire. The high side switch transistor is only making continuity from only one prong on the transistor.

-------------------------------------

I'm also getting a code 6 due to a split wire on the thermostat connector while installing the engine. At first the fan was not kicking on but now it kicks on. As for the code 6, I have done some tests and I suspect it is my ect. It feeds out around 230 ohms when hot, but only 2-3k when cold. So that might be the issue. I'm wondering if I could find a transistor from another ecu and just replace that high side switch (transistor) ?.

What could cause the code 6 and code 21 to still be on.

Any help would greatly be appreciated.

-Manny.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like a bad distributor to me.


Change that and your fuel pump at the same time and the issue will go away.


PM RonJ@ht for more info.

Jdmkids Manny

Hmmmmm, that seems kind of odd I'm not sure if the distributor or fuel pump has any thing to do with those 2 codes. Code 6 is for engine coolant temprature, and the code 21 is for the vtec solenoid spool wire. Thx for the feedback though, I'll try to get in contact with Ron.

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

PM RonJ@HT for more info.

Jdmkids Manny

Yea I couldn't find RonJ@HT on the members list when I was checking.
Is he a Mod ?

tony_2018

Dude....Is GDD that boring now?

hahaha

slomofo

iTrader: (1)

Somebody keeps ******* with my perfect 0 post count, so I'm going to reach 100 posts and stop.


These 100 posts will be 100% useless.

Former User

I edited your first post to break up the intimidating, dense wall of text. If you take more time writing and organizing your text, more members would stay to read your post and fewer would exit immediately.

First off, if you reset the ECU do both codes return?

And why do you say that your engine has no oil pressure sensor?

Jdmkids Manny

Thank you Ron, Yes both codes appear no matter how many times I reset the ECU. I mean no oil pressure switch, the green plug on the solenoid. From what I understand, all jdm obd2 vtec motors did not come with that oil pressure switch on the solenoid.

Jdmkids Manny

Hello H-T, I just got done testing the ECT sensor once again.

What I come up with is 2,600 ohms when cold and 190 ohms when hot.

I have replaced it with a new sensor and I'm still getting the code.

I have checked the sending unit and it feeds out 160 ohms when cold and 70 ohms when hot.

I honestly suspect it to be the sending unit, so I'll replace that tomorrow and see what I get.

When checking the sending unit wire, it feeds out 10v.

If anyone could kindly lead me in the right direction, it would greatly be appreciated.

Former User

The temp sending unit has nothing to do with code 6. Focus on the ECT sensor with a 2P connector below the distributor.

Also, there's no code 21 for OBD2 Civics, only code 22. Post a video of the CEL blinking codes 6 and 21. Or do you have an OBD2 code reader?

Jdmkids Manny

Yea, I see what your saying Ron. Thank you for the reply.

I'll see if i can get a video for you tomorrow.

Its an obd2a (1996 Honda Civic EK4).

I do not have an obd2 code reader, just going off of the blinking method using the blue 2p connector under the dash passenger side with a paper-clip.

I want to say its the ECT connector not making a good connection. Last I checked it fed out 0.5v from terminal 1, so believe the wire is getting its signal. Its just the connector can sometimes get worn out within time.

This code 6 also leaves me to believe that it itself is what is triggering the code 21.

Former User

This^ should help.

Also post pictures of the VTEC solenoid connectors and wires, as well as the ECT sensor connector and wires.

The reading should be 5V. What color wire pin had 0.5V? What was the other color wire pin?

They are unrelated, assuming you read the codes correctly.

tony_2018

Still zero.

Jdmkids Manny

Hello Ron, please excuse as I've been having issues posting pics and the video here on the forum.

I've also tried uploading to photobucket but it still gave me issues.

From what I could see, the vtec solenoid spool valve is soldered to a green wire
With a black line.

As for the ECT connector terminal 1 is a red wire with a white line,
The other wire is green with a white line. However with further inspection the ECT green/white wire is soldered to a green wire with a yellow line. As appose to staying a consistent green/white.

I'll try to post the pics and vid once again.


I

Former User

This^ explains the 2 CEL codes. The ECT ground wire and VTEC solenoid wire are swapped:

Jdmkids Manny

Hello Ron, thank you so much. Right before getting a chance to look at this update from you, a friend took pics of his ect and solenoid wire colors and we figured they were indeed swapped.

Car now runs great, no high idle, vtec cracks, huge difference.

Once again, thanks a lot Ron.

Former User

Glad you got it fixed.