i got some old tires rims and did a burnout. after i heard some noise in my car. how do i know if i damage a wheel bearing. or could it be the old rims and tires. idk. i will try to put back the rims/tires i had b4.and see if it will go away. wtf. i only did burnout for a couple of seconds. can burnouts cause wheel-bearing to go bad? is it hard to replace?
Burnouts can cause lots of things. It puts lots of stress on the whole drive train. Yes it could have damaged the bearings. listen for a deep dry whirring pulsating noise. Metal on metal whomp whomp that changes with speed. Need a shop to press them out. local shop will prob do it for a 20 spot if you pull the knuckles off and bring them to them. Try the other tires first could be deformed tire also.
1990 CRX DX B16a--traded killed by curb (drifting Damn kids) R.I.P DSiX
1992 integra LS turbo
1998 Integra gsr 4 door
Also check 12 oclock and 6 oclock positions. Testing for a bad wheel bearing varies on different cars. Some cars testing at 4/8 checks for play in the inner/outer tie rods and that play could be misjudged(although, if the bearing is bad enough it will wobble as if the lugnuts are loose no matter what direction you pull). The 12/6 oclock position(on certain vehicles) is used to test bearing play/busted ball joints. As has been mentioned before there will be a loud(depending on how bad the bearing is) grinding/metal to metal noise when driving on bad bearings. My trick would be to go in an empty parking lot and going about 15-20mph turn the wheel left/right to put the weight of the car on the bearing to hear which specific bearing it is.
1993 Civic Hatch-Current DD
So many other rwd sports cars, too much to list...
Some bearings don't move when you wiggle the wheels with your hands. If you go to an empty parking lot and dump the car onto one corner at about 15mph, you can hear the noise; sometimes it's a whirring noise, sometimes a vibration, but it'll gradually increase with velocity and load. Wheel wiggling would be the first thing to check though, but if it doesn't wiggle, then go drive it. If it does wiggle and it's moving more than a quarter inch, chances are you'll need a hub as well as a bearing.
I was wrong, RonJ@HT DIDN'T delete my signature, I'm so sorry Ron.
RonJ@HT is my hero.
I love you captain Ron!
take off tire-
take off rotor
spin/wiggle etc on the bearing.
itll make a noise or grinding or something.
That or do the tire trick...jack up car- take weight off tire- push it on the top/bottom...any play? the push side to side...any play?
If bad, just buy the hub and bearing as 1 piece. I just changed mine it was like 50 bucks for a complete one from advance auto....had it out and switched in 10 minutes. (hardest part was taking off the tire, lol.
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