ReactioN

i saw this thread and im going to be flushing out the brake lines because of dirty and i mean dirty oil.
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread/2355209

so my question is would it be good put in dot 4 instead of dot 3 or will dot 4 have the same effect with my OEM brakes? ill be upgradeing to GSR brakes later on but just wanted to know. thanks H-T

AnotherSI

dot 4 can withstand more heat than dot 3 and they're both hydroscopic. its fine to use one or the other in your system but i wouldnt recomend mixing them.

ReactioN

yes i know not to mix em

What would you recommend more? dot 3 or dot for my 94 civic cs hb?

and how would you go about draning all the oil out of the brake likes?

ill be taking off the calipers also


And when i bleed do i have to bleed the drums too?

AnotherSI

depends on the use. if its a race application dot 4 will be better but id bet fresh dot 3 will have more than enough of a boiling point for street application even if you have upgraded brake components. now to perform a brake flush you dont want to just crack a line or bleeder screw. that'll cause many aches and pains when trying to bleed it, especially if you get air in the master cylinder. i'd suggest investing in a vacuum bleeder.

ReactioN

how much do those run?

AnotherSI

my snapon setup ran alot, probably to much, but it has every adaptor you can think of and everything for pressure bleeding also but im just you can find a generic one at sears.

SOHC SPEED

you could definetlly put dot4 in your system, if you are using your car for racing you could also use DOT 5.1, it has an even higher boiling point .

ReactioN

so what would be the cheapest way to bleed it cause im pretty much outa cash!

cant i just open bleader valves and let the oil come completey out?

illhave some one pumping the brakes while i bleed em?

lmk

i think ima stick with dot3 cause i have 2 bottles and ill upgrade to dot4 when i upgrade to gsr brakes

AnotherSI

1. yes if your sticking with dot 3 just bleed the brakes normally at all four wheels
2. no sense going to dot 4 with just gsr brakes, they're another stock application
3. dont use dot 5, dot five is not hydroscopic and if you dont perform very routin maintenance on them moisture will accumulate in the system and thats no good. moisture=higher boiling point, poor braking, and component failure.

ReactioN

Ok let me elaborate more clearly


I want to drain ALL the Dirty oil from the system because its black.

how can i do this?

can i jsut open the bleader valves and just stoart to add pressuer to them? or how would i go about doing this since its my first time flushing the brake system.


Thanks again you guys are the ****!!! whoo!

cehcivic15

actually dot4 and dot3 are compatible, dot 4 absorbs less moisture and has higher boiling point, dot5 is not compatible, there is a new one out called dot5.5 that is not compatible with dot5 but is with dot3 and dot4, and absorbs even less moisture and higher boiling temp than dot4, check out honda tuning like 2 or 3 months ago, they explain all of this

ReactioN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by cehcivic15 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">actually dot4 and dot3 are compatible, dot 4 absorbso less moisture and has higher boiling point, dot5 is not compatible, there is a new one out called dot5.5 that is not compatible with dot5 but is with dot3 and dot4, and absorbs even less moisture and higher boiling temp than dot4, check out honda tuning like 2 or 3 months ago, they explain all of this</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright thats good to know now but ima stick to dot 3 since i have two bottles of it

Please some one answer my question please!

AnotherSI

ok...put ur car up on jack stands and take off all four tires. have somebody sit in the car to work the brake petal and you work the bleeder screws. have your buddy pump the brake petal up and hold it. you crack the bleeder screw and tighten it back up. then your buddy and take his foot off the brake and pump it up again. do that until you drained the master cylinder reservior about 2/3 of the way. fill the reservior back up and do another wheel. repeat the process all the way around the vehical. that is a brake flush the manual style way.

ReactioN

k kool but how would i remove the oil from the brake system?

Frozen E

Get yourself a plastic milk jug, about 3 feet of 1/4" fish tank air line and LOTS of your new brake fluid.

Put about an inch of fluid in the bottom of the jug.
Hook the air line up to the bleeder screw, run the other end into the jug and make sure the end is covered by the fluid you just put in there.
Crack the bleeder screw and start pumping your brakes making sure to constantly refill your reservoir with fresh fluid.
Do this for about 30 pumps or so to get all the old fluid in and to get a decent amount of the new fluid into that brake line.

Remember that the new fluid is going to dilute the old stuff down to almost nothing in the reservoir. By the time you get to your last brake you should be running nothing but clean fluid through there. Hell, you might want to think about redoing the first one just for the hell of it.

This is the easiest/cheapest way I've found to bleed brakes yourself. If you want to go and get one of those vacuum things, more power to ya. Not necessary though.

ReactioN

so just do it like regual bleeding?

and also how much do you usally use?


and i can do one at a time right?

ill be taking off caliper so can i still do the same thing?

AnotherSI

what do you mean get all the oil out? brake fluid is brake fluid, not oil. theres no oil incorperated into a brake system. if you do what i said before you have no risk of sucking air back up into the system if you do islandsi's technique. plus his way is not a brake flush, thats just pushing old fluid into a bucket of new fluid and sucking a mixutre of old and new fluid back into the system.

Frozen E

You don't have to take your calipers off.

And my way IS a brake flush. The crap that gets pumped into the jug never goes back up into the system. The only reason I said to put some fluid in the bottom to start with is so eliminate the chance of any air getting back in there.

In hindsight I guess it really doesn't matter since he's going to be pumping the hell out of his brakes a lot more than juts a regular air bleeding job

ReactioN

im going to take off the calipers either way, never been replace so just gunna make sure.

so what would be a more efficient way to clean out the brake fluid and taking out the calipers? do i have to support it on 4 jack stands?

AnotherSI

when you bleed brakes why do you think you close the bleeder before the petal is released....because if you didnt the plunger moving back will suck in air. every bit of fluid that is pushed out on the down stroke is going to be sucked back in with your method. using your method island si is not a brake flush. it is a method of bleeding but should only be used if you have no one to work the petal for you. but why listen to me, i mean im only an ASE master cerified tech. do what you think is best dude...try all the methods if you want. im just tellin ya a fast and propor way to do a flush with no special tools.

ReactioN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnotherSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you bleed brakes why do you think you close the bleeder before the petal is released....because if you didnt the plunger moving back will suck in air. every bit of fluid that is pushed out on the down stroke is going to be sucked back in with your method. using your method island si is not a brake flush. it is a method of bleeding but should only be used if you have no one to work the petal for you. but why listen to me, i mean im only an ASE master cerified tech. do what you think is best dude...try all the methods if you want. im just tellin ya a fast and propor way to do a flush with no special tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Alright bro can you like type down the step please so i can get this done!


ps Sorry si its my first time bleeding brakes so i kinda need all the info i can get because the brake fluid is LITERALLY BLACK!!!

AnotherSI

1. jack the car up and take off all four wheels.
2. one at a time open and close all four bleeder screws to make sure they all work.
3. suck all the dirty fluid out of the reservior and fill it back up with new fluid.
4. with some one in the car have them pump the petal up and keep pressure on the petal. at the same time you are at your first wheel. with your buddy steppin on the petal you open the bleeder screw. he will feel the brake petal drop all the way to the floor. after the bleeder screw stops squirtin fluid you tighten it back up.
5. repeat step 4 on the same wheel until the reservior is 2/3 of the way empty.
6. once you get the reservior 2/3 empty fill it back up and repeat the same process in step 4 on your next wheel. do this at all four wheels.

if you do this proporly you shouldnt have to go back to any wheel to bleed any air out. its very simple. any other questions feel free to ask. let us know how it went.

ReactioN

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnotherSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">1. jack the car up and take off all four wheels.
2. one at a time open and close all four bleeder screws to make sure they all work.
3. suck all the dirty fluid out of the reservior and fill it back up with new fluid.
4. with some one in the car have them pump the petal up and keep pressure on the petal. at the same time you are at your first wheel. with your buddy steppin on the petal you open the bleeder screw. he will feel the brake petal drop all the way to the floor. after the bleeder screw stops squirtin fluid you tighten it back up.
5. repeat step 4 on the same wheel until the reservior is 2/3 of the way empty.
6. once you get the reservior 2/3 empty fill it back up and repeat the same process in step 4 on your next wheel. do this at all four wheels.

if you do this proporly you shouldnt have to go back to any wheel to bleed any air out. its very simple. any other questions feel free to ask. let us know how it went.</TD></TR></TABLE>

There were im confused,
Do you want me to bleed the dirty fluid out until 2/3 of the res. and then fill with new so its like flushing the old one?

or how thats were you confused me.
sorry noob here

Frozen E

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by AnotherSI &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">when you bleed brakes why do you think you close the bleeder before the petal is released....because if you didnt the plunger moving back will suck in air. every bit of fluid that is pushed out on the down stroke is going to be sucked back in with your method. using your method island si is not a brake flush. it is a method of bleeding but should only be used if you have no one to work the petal for you. but why listen to me, i mean im only an ASE master cerified tech. do what you think is best dude...try all the methods if you want. im just tellin ya a fast and propor way to do a flush with no special tools.</TD></TR></TABLE>

It sucks in less than was pushed out, which is why it works. And to prevent air getting sucked back in when the bleeder is open, that's what the hose and fluid in the bottom of the jug is for. Don't believe me, try it out. I'll bet you any amount of money that the amount of fluid pushed out is MORE than what gets sucked back in. Otherwise, why would the master cylinder start to empty out?

I'm sure you'd be able to answer me that since you're ASE king shizzle master head honcho certified and all.

ReactioN

hey guys come on lets no argue! Lets help this noob