blaze the chemi

I thought I would update a DIY for rotor and brake jobs. The last one done was conducted quite some time ago and has since had the pictures deleted. Well…

Here’s my first DIY.

The car used was a 2000 Civic Si. Most cars, especially Hondas, use similar setups. Consult your specific model for correct torque settings.

Things needed:
10 mm, 12 mm, 14 mm, 17 mm wrenches and socket wrenches.
Foot-Pound torque wrench
Jack and stands
Pads and Rotors
Brake clean
Shop towels or low lint paper towels
Water
Patience

Optional, but highly recommended:
Impact gun
Impact driver

Let’s start.

Get your stands and jack situated correctly to raise the vehicle. You can either work the front and the rear separately, or you can work each side separately.



Raise the vehicle and support the car from the correct positions. Be sure to add something to both the front and rear tires on the opposite side to keep the car extra stable. You do not want the car on top of you.




I have an impact gun. Dewalt 345 ft-lbs of sheer madness to get those pesky lug nuts off. A breaker bar or something should be sufficient to break them loose, but since they should be torqued to 80 ft-lbs, you shouldn’t need a breaker bar too much.



Now that you have your wheel off, first take the brake line support bolts off. They should be a 10 mm. (8.7 ft-lbs)


If possible I always try and keep the bolts/nuts in place after I remove the item so I don’t have extra parts hanging around after a job. Put those two bolts back in position.




Take off the lower caliper bolt (24 ft-lbs). This provides access to the pads.



Flip the caliper up and take off the old pads. If you are just inspecting the pads then note that they should have 9.5 – 10.5 mm of pad thickness. The minimum limit is 1.6 mm.



Mine were very low and since I was about to track my car, I knew I should replace them.


:note: the wear indicator sticking down, this should be installed on the front pads on the top side facing in toward the motor.

Take the caliper mounting bolts off. These are a bit tougher to get since they are (80 ft-lbs)



Support the caliper with wire to prevent damage to your brake lines.



A pic of my new pads on the left (Hawk HP+) and OEM on the right



Now you are ready to take the rotor off. Here is where that impact driver comes to play. There are two retaining screw that hold the rotor to the hub. These things are heated to very high temperature when you brake and have a tendancy to rust freeze in place if anti-sieze was not used. I think the last person who did this job used loctite. Get an impact driver and a hammer. This will release those screws easily.



I wanted to salvage my rotors because I measured them and they were well within spec. The Helms stated that 8x1.25mm bolt could be screwed into the other 2 holes to push the rotor away from the hub. I found a bolt from the upper support bolt holding in my power steering. So I used it.


:note: don’t screw too much on each bolt without turning the other, or else damage to the rotor can happen. Twist each bolt about a turn then turn the other. The rotor will come off shortly.



Put the new rotor on :bling:



I put those damn screws back in just to hold the rotor on. Once I completed the job for each pad/rotor I took them off.

Put the caliper back on so the new pads can be placed in the caliper. Be sure to use pad grease. DO NOT PUT PAD GREASE ON THE ROTORS OR PADS




Slowly roll the caliper over the pads. You may need to push the piston back in order to place the caliper over the new pads. I pushed the piston in with a dowel and opened the bake bleed screw (6.5 ft-lbs) Be sure to bleed the brakes after the job is done to ensure no air is trapped.


Installed! Now use that brake cleans and sprtiz down the pads and rotors to get rid of fingerprints, oil, dirt, anything to contaminate the brakes.



On to the rear!

Take off the caliper shield (on floor 7 ft-lbs) and take brake hose mounting bolts (16 ft-lbs)


Then take the caliper bolts off (17 ft-lbs) and support the caliper.


Take the caliper bracket off. These bolts are ( 28 ft-lbs)



Again…those damn screws.
I didn’t have wood or a plastic mallet and was replacing the rotor anyway. So I took a hammer to the backside and the rotor flew off. Oh well…New one on there now.


The rear caliper piston is much easier to get in. Simply take a pair of needle nose pliers and screw the piston in clockwise.


Line up the notch of the inside rear pads to fit inside the “cross” in the piston.


Torque everything to spec


Beer time!


I broke in my pads by first driving around my neighborhood at 30 mph and slamming the brakes to 20 mph. Do not drag the brakes at this time. Then I went out to the major street and ripped it. 80 mph down to 60 mph a few times and then back to the house to let them cool off. Be sure to keep the car level and do not have the emergency brake on at all. Leave them alone for an hour or so. They should be broken in. Mine officially set in a few laps at Talledega Gran Prix. I never knew I could make brakes smoke like crazy.

Modified by blaze the chemi at 8:05 AM 3/30/2007


Modified by blaze the chemi at 3:27 PM 5/16/2007

Libertariat

Nice writeup, get it stickied in the "post links to helpful FAQs" Thread. This belongs there.

JCracer723

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ek forever guy &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Nice writeup, get it stickied in the "post links to helpful FAQs" Thread. This belongs there. </TD></TR></TABLE>

agree... just finished doing this and i had to come here couple of times to do a search... this pretty much has all the the details...

EG2Driver

Its nice that you put in the torque specs for the **** people among us. Good job!

dohcdelsol

I dont know bout anyone else, but when i do a break job, i take the brake MC cap off first. And when i go to push the caliper piston back in, i break the bleeder lose, then push in the caliper and close it back off. do it correctly and no air gets back into the system. then just top it off.

Just the way i do it when the piston wont go in so easily. guess i just dont like fiting something and i take the easy way even if it means longer.

But nice write up

Jspec_ej8

Great write up ...im doing a brake upgrade this week on my car too...just in time to look over

Jhonny Ricer

vedy nice how much??
and an A+++ for a perfect DIY write up

P.S. nice drill wish i had the 400 bones to dish out for one lol

CarbonizedDX

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by dohcdelsol &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I dont know bout anyone else, but when i do a break job, i take the brake MC cap off first. And when i go to push the caliper piston back in, i break the bleeder lose, then push in the caliper and close it back off. do it correctly and no air gets back into the system. then just top it off.

Just the way i do it when the piston wont go in so easily. guess i just dont like fiting something and i take the easy way even if it means longer.

But nice write up </TD></TR></TABLE>

I do that as well. Also I'd suggest a can of brake clean, it's good to spray down the rotors in preparation for install as well as a sure fire way to guarantee a clean rotor and pad surface after install (never know what might have gotten on the rotor or fingerprints...).

Farmer Brown

Nice write up.
Word of advice, especially on cars with abs is that you should open the bleeder before you press the piston in to avoid pushing dirty fluid up into the abs unit.
An easy way to press the piston in on the front is to stick a screw driver in that little inspection window on the front of the caliper with the blade on the near edge of the rotor and pull towards you.

blaze the chemi

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by CarbonizedDX &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

I do that as well. Also I'd suggest a can of brake clean, it's good to spray down the rotors in preparation for install as well as a sure fire way to guarantee a clean rotor and pad surface after install (never know what might have gotten on the rotor or fingerprints...).</TD></TR></TABLE>
DOH! I knew I would forget something. Yeah I had a bottle of brake clean. I sprayed the pads and rotors after the job before going to the next one. Thanks and I'll edit my write up to include it.

namewasdallas

Very good info just did my brakes this week using this, As ive never done brakes befor on a honda, easy easy

Red_Army

nice writeup. little worried that someone may need a writeup for disc brakes though...

a measly 345? got 700 ft lbs to show those bolts whose boss. 150 bucks. 400 is a ripoff for a gun.

i would never do only one side of my car lifted...front or back ok but sideways? no sir.

and it is much easier to just hit it with a hammer to get it off then use a screw.

Catalyst916

nice write up. my brakes started making noise a couple days ago, so time for some new brakes. haven't had the car for too long, so this is my first time doing the brakes. nice to have a reference to check. thanks

miguel329

nice write up... sending this to my cousin maybe it will get me out of help him LOL

dnice78

Nice write up, too bad I only have disc on front

unknownally

Can I use an impact gun instead to take those rotor screws off? I don't want to strip mine it's only a month old. Don't want to buy another one. I tried using a screwdriver but it seems that it wants to strip it.

ken9

UHmm, i think the screw are difficult to come out sometimes.. I have try using an impact gun and it didn't work... ANyone here try drilling the screw to get it out??

98civdx

impact screw driver has always worked for me. or there are screw drivers with a squared part on the end, grab with adjustable wrench and smack with a hammer while turning, a little pb could help as well. My uncle drilled his out a while back, they were totaly seized and rounded.

boxeocampeon

nice write up

VonDeedar

Thanks for this just replaced both front discs (sorry rotors) and pads - you save me a load of time and bunch of cash.