twentytwocpb

How hard is this guys? 1-10?

Kendall

About a 4 to be perfectly honest (this is presuming you consider installing an intake to be a 1 and deckplating a block to be a 10). Aside from the parts and tools, all it takes is a little time, patience, and attention to detail.

B18C5-EH2

Do not waste your time and money trying to replace the head gasket - buy another engine instead.

Here read this:

CLICK ME

Read it from start to finish, and then tell me you still want to try a head gasket job.

Kendall

B18C5-EH2 does have an excellent point. I can't remember the last head gasket job I did that was just a head gasket job. The relatively low cost of good used engines is definitely something to consider.

soclean1k_JDM

what up??? umm why would you need it?

soclean1k_JDM

94EG8

Yeah, umm, my advice is buy a low mileage jdm engine, either a SOHC ZC Vtec or D15B Vtec will drop right in. The D16Z6 doesn't suffer from the same headgasket issues as the D15B7/B8 engines, according to honda's TSB on the issue. That being said however i've kinda been left with a bad taste in my mouth doing headgaskets on hondas. And if you have to pay someone to put a headgasket in just buy an engine, its not gonna cost you that much more and you wont be worried all the time.


Modified by 94EG8 at 6:54 PM 7/16/2008

twentytwocpb

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soclean1k_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">what up??? umm why would you need it?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Building a d16z6 for a friends CRX OOOOWEEEE!

itsmejto

WTF with a replacement engine, the guy needs a head gasket at about 3-5 of 10 difficulty, may take you all day, make sure you have all gaskets and pre-soak all nuts/bolts with good penatrating oil the night before. A replacement engine will cost 100 times the gasket costs and make it a 10 rating.

94EG8

no, not really, having done both i personally find it much easier to drop an engine in than change a headgasket when the engine is still in the car, but the real point was a lot of times when a headgasket blows you end up replacing a lot more than just the headgasket, and often you have major lingering problems, like oil consumption. Now after reading the OPs last post i get the impression that this guy is building an engine. If the gasket never blew in the first place i wouldn't worry too much about replacing it. But if it blew i'd just say forget it and drop in a low mileage JDM engine.

MrRabbit87

iTrader: (1)

comon guys, gotta be a reason the gasket is leaking, fix the problem then replace the gasket to avoid replacing the gasket in the future. thats the fundamental to any repair.

94EG8

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MrRabbit87 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">comon guys, gotta be a reason the gasket is leaking, fix the problem then replace the gasket to avoid replacing the gasket in the future. thats the fundamental to any repair. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Yeah, thats what i used to think too. With a Z6 you at least have a chance at putting in a head gasket, people seem to do it on a regular basis and come out ok. However if you ever blow a head gasket in a D15B7 or a D15B8 just haul the engine out and start over, i personally know of 2 D15B7s that went through 5 head gaskets each, one of them was owned by a honda parts guy too, i think he put at least a couple of gaskets in at honda. I blew the head gasket in my first D15B7, replaced the head gasket, i ended up in even worse shape than before i started, gave up on that engine, bought a used D15B7 from a local junkyard put 6000kms on, i don't even think it got an oil change and blew the head gasket in that, pulled the head, fel-pro gasket, hmm. finally decided i had enough of that and dropped a JDM D15B vtec in and no problems since. Also had a friend with a D15B7 in his hatch, head gasket blew in that and we didn't even try, had yet another friend with a D15B7 in has hatch as well and you guessed it, blown headgasket, he sold it as is, told the guy it needed a headgasket. Now heres what i learned out of all this, it didn't seem to make any difference as to whether or not the head was planned, new headbolts didn't help, OEM vs fel-pro made no difference, updated torque specs didn't help. The only thing that did help was using a 3 layer steel head gasket in one of the engines i mentioned. As much as I hate to admit it i've come to the conclusion that once you blow the headgasket in a non-vtec obd1 D-series its pretty much a boat anchor. I think they OBD2 engines are a little better, they aren't in the TSB anyway, neither are the SOHC vtec engines. To the OP if your just building an engine you should be ok, if not you might be ok.

MrRabbit87

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 94EG8 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

As much as I hate to admit it i've come to the conclusion that once you blow the headgasket in a non-vtec obd1 D-series its pretty much a boat anchor. I think they OBD2 engines are a little better, they aren't in the TSB anyway, neither are the SOHC vtec engines. .</TD></TR></TABLE>

o wow, never knew there was a tsb out for the d15b7 head gasket. I had a d15b7, put 20 k on the motor, n had no problems. Feel bad for the sucker i sold it to haha Good info.

I found this via google

"Some engines just have a history of blowing head gaskets. Head gasket failures on older Honda Civic 1.3L and 1.5L engines are fairly common because of a hot spot between the two center cylinders in the cylinder head.

The location of the exhaust valves, combined with restricted coolant flow in the head, creates a hot spot that causes the head to swell. When this occurs, it crushes the head gasket, leaving a path for combustion gases to burn through the gasket. Replacing the original gasket with another OEM gasket temporarily solves the problem, but sooner or later the problem returns because the OEM gasket crushes and fails again.

The fix here is to replace the OEM head gasket with a gasket made by Fel-Pro. The Fel-Pro gasket contains a special reinforcement in the hot spot area to prevent the gasket from crushing and failing.

The cure here is to install an aftermarket head gasket that has been re-engineered to handle the hot spot. The aftermarket gasket has a 0.005-inch Y-shaped aluminum shim pressed into the face of the gasket under the hot spot between the two center cylinders. The combustion armors around all four cylinders are also connected to add additional strength and reinforcement. This prevents the gasket from being crushed and saves you a comeback."

Looks like fel-pro is the right option to go, although as mentioned from above it may not work but better to use a head gasket engineered for the hotspots then the oem which fail because of it.

soclean1k_JDM

scaring me man

pepsiDX20

Jesus, this guy is asking how hard it is to swap out a head gasket and you guys are him telling to go get a used motor. I've done 2. It about a 7-8. Just make sure you have the correct tools(air tools and compressor, help a lot). Label everything. MAKE SURE you torque everything down correctly.

postman

you guys are nuts. now given i work at a honda dealer turnin wrenches. i can have a headgasket done by lunch time **** before that if its a single cam. given the head doenst need milled, which usually needs done

EGandDArida

i bought my civic with a D15B7 for 200 buck with a blow gasket replaced it still have know problem didnt even get the head check out or nothing going on 6 months with it still good

95ProjectEJ1

iTrader: (5)

I picked up an auto EJ1, and just purchased the tb, wp and hg from SLhondaparts.com. All in all it cost me $200 in parts and will only take me a couple hours to install all 3 with the motor in the car.

Take your time and do it right. No sense in buying another motor with high mileage. They usually runa bout $250 for a longblock and are not always complete. Why pay $250 and spend more time pulling the motor and swapping parts over?

1992Si

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soclean1k_JDM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">scaring me man</TD></TR></TABLE>

WOW how did this thread get highjacked into a D15 discussion.

To replace the HG on a D16z6 is a major job if you've never done it before.

If you have a decent set of Craftsman tools, jackstands, torque wrench, a honda manual that you can down load you can do it. Make a list of the things you'll need, and also have the head checked by a machine shop to make sure it's flat.

Once you've done this job it becomes easier.

Is this engine in the car or out ?

you'll need;

drain pans, anti-freeze, oil and filter, intake and exhaust gaskets, you'll need to loosen the timing belt, may be replace the dizzy o-ring.

That bracket under the intake manifold is always fun, the rusty exhaust nuts are a joy.

You may want to label the connectors on the intake manifold. You can put them on different connectors. I think the MAP and IACV are the same


Modified by 1992Si at 8:59 PM 7/26/2008


Modified by 1992Si at 9:00 PM 7/26/2008

B18C5-EH2

I JUST WANT TO SEE THE OUTCOME FROM THIS HEAD GASKET JOB POSTED AFTER YOU ARE DONE.

For everyone questioning why I'd suggest an engine?

After seeing too many Hg jobs gone aour I would not feel good about someone with zero mechanical knowledge trying to tackle an intricate job such as a head gasket. an entire engine swap, believe it or not, is QUICKER and EASIER to do than a HG job.

Unless you live near the best/fastet machine shop in the world I doubt you'll get an HG job done RIGHT, complete with head mill, pressure testing, and valvestem seals/possible guides, all in the same day.

I also must admit that I have been working in the Honda/Acura service industry since 1995 and have been at my current honda/Acura only repair shop for 8 years - this has probably shifted my suggestions from "cheap" to "a job that I could offer a 100% gurantee fix" for. I have been burned by trying to save someone money by doing a HG job (when I should have done an engine first) and after the job was done the engine smoked due to bottom end troubles (unseen/impossible to know) or by a releaking gasket soon after because the block deck surface was warped and even a straight edge didn't show it.

If you are very mechanially inclined and you're wanting the cheap way out, then by all means do a HG job - I'm not saying it's an impossible job - but I am saying that it's not even a 50/50 job IMO seeing as how you can never know the untold block/bottom end damage done from the overheating that caused the blown HG in the f'ing first place!!!

Good luck.

victor.ek4

Hy guys, I live in Brazil and the service for a KG replacement is quite expensive, so I'm planning to replace it by myself.

My engine is a B16 so I'm worried about the cam timing.

Is it a real hard job to replace it under a service manual?

I've got all the tools and I know alot in theori but in practice i'm just a noob.

what you guys would sugest?

D16SiHatch

In the event you do decide to do the HG this should help..


-Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
-Rotate crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.
-Relieve fuel pressure as described under Technician Safety Information .
-Remove air flow tube.
-Remove fuel feed and EVAP canister hoses from intake manifold.
-Remove throttle cable at throttle body.
-On models equipped with automatic transaxles , remove throttle control cable from throttle body.
-Disconnect fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
-Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
Fuel injectors.
TA sensor.
IAT sensor and IAC valve.
EACV and throttle sensor.
MAP sensor and ground cable.
Engine coolant temperature sensor.
TW switch and oxygen sensor.
TW sensor and temperature unit.
Engine coolant temperature gauge sending unit.
Spool valve.
Oil pressure switch.
EGR lift sensor.
TDC/CKP/CYP sensor.
-Remove spark plug caps and distributor.
-Remove engine ground cable on cylinder head cover.
-Remove power steering belt, pump and bracket, then position aside. Do not disconnect pump hoses.
-Disconnect emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly.
-Disconnect upper radiator hose and heater hose from cylinder head.
-Disconnect water bypass hose from thermostat.
-Remove intake manifold bracket, then the self-locking nuts and disconnect exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.
-Remove exhaust manifold bracket, then disconnect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and remove cylinder head cover.
-Remove timing belt upper cover. Loosen timing belt adjusting bolt 180degrees to release belt tension.
-Push tensioner to release tension from timing belt, then retighten adjusting bolt.
-Remove belt from camshaft pulley.Do not crimp or bend timing belt more than 90°or less than one inch in diameter .
Fig. 17 Cylinder Head Bolt Loosening Sequence



-Remove cylinder head attaching bolts in sequence, Fig. 17. To prevent warpage, loosen bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time. Repeat until all bolts are loosened.
-Separate cylinder head from block. Use an appropriate pry tool, if necessary.
-Remove intake manifold and exhaust manifold from cylinder head.
-Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Fig. 18 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence



-Clean cylinder head and engine mating surfaces prior to installation.
-Turn crankshaft to No. 1 piston TDC.
-Tighten intake and exhaust manifold nuts to specifications in crossing pattern in two or three steps, beginning with inner nuts.
-Torque cylinder head attaching bolts in two steps using sequence shown in Fig. 18 ; first to 22 ft. lbs., then to 53 ft. lbs.
-Adjust valve timing as necessary.

philkehn

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by D16SiHatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">In the event you do decide to do the HG this should help..


-Disconnect battery ground cable, then drain cooling system.
-Rotate crankshaft until No. 1 cylinder is at TDC.
-Relieve fuel pressure as described under Technician Safety Information .
-Remove air flow tube.
-Remove fuel feed and EVAP canister hoses from intake manifold.
-Remove throttle cable at throttle body.
-On models equipped with automatic transaxles , remove throttle control cable from throttle body.
-Disconnect fuel return hose and brake booster vacuum hose.
-Disconnect the following electrical connectors:
Fuel injectors.
TA sensor.
IAT sensor and IAC valve.
EACV and throttle sensor.
MAP sensor and ground cable.
Engine coolant temperature sensor.
TW switch and oxygen sensor.
TW sensor and temperature unit.
Engine coolant temperature gauge sending unit.
Spool valve.
Oil pressure switch.
EGR lift sensor.
TDC/CKP/CYP sensor.
-Remove spark plug caps and distributor.
-Remove engine ground cable on cylinder head cover.
-Remove power steering belt, pump and bracket, then position aside. Do not disconnect pump hoses.
-Disconnect emission vacuum hoses and water bypass hoses from intake manifold assembly.
-Disconnect upper radiator hose and heater hose from cylinder head.
-Disconnect water bypass hose from thermostat.
-Remove intake manifold bracket, then the self-locking nuts and disconnect exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe.
-Remove exhaust manifold bracket, then disconnect Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) hose and remove cylinder head cover.
-Remove timing belt upper cover. Loosen timing belt adjusting bolt 180degrees to release belt tension.
-Push tensioner to release tension from timing belt, then retighten adjusting bolt.
-Remove belt from camshaft pulley.Do not crimp or bend timing belt more than 90°or less than one inch in diameter .
Fig. 17 Cylinder Head Bolt Loosening Sequence



-Remove cylinder head attaching bolts in sequence, Fig. 17. To prevent warpage, loosen bolts in sequence 1/3 turn at a time. Repeat until all bolts are loosened.
-Separate cylinder head from block. Use an appropriate pry tool, if necessary.
-Remove intake manifold and exhaust manifold from cylinder head.
-Reverse procedure to install, noting the following:
Fig. 18 Cylinder Head Bolt Tightening Sequence



-Clean cylinder head and engine mating surfaces prior to installation.
-Turn crankshaft to No. 1 piston TDC.
-Tighten intake and exhaust manifold nuts to specifications in crossing pattern in two or three steps, beginning with inner nuts.
-Torque cylinder head attaching bolts in two steps using sequence shown in Fig. 18 ; first to 22 ft. lbs., then to 53 ft. lbs.
-Adjust valve timing as necessary.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Just follow this guys steps its pretty close and alot easier than it seems... IT IS NOT EASIER TO SWAP OUT YOUR ENGINE AND MOST OF THESE PEOPLE KEEP REFERING TO A B7 PROBLEM WHEN YOU HAVE A Z6...

I have changed several head gaskets in the matter of hours where as swaps always take a day to pull and a day to drop and maybe another day to wire up.

Remember that changing the head gasket you DO have to reset your timing belt and what not, thats the hardest part I ran into.

Also if your gasket blew to over heating or just the fact that it might of blown might of warped the head, you would than at the point have to get it machined, i have paid a shop here only 50 bucks to have it machined, but you know locations and individuals vary.

JoeDel

i am attempting this soon also on a d16 z6 and i had a quick question. i was reading ahead of time in my crappy haynes manual it says in there to remove the cam shaft and some other parts that seemed unneccsesary. but none of that is in your list. once the timing belt is off and the intake/ exhaust do i need to remove anything from in the head to gain access to the bolts holding it on? i have done a couple of hg but this is the first one i have done on a honda thanks

philkehn

dohc you have to remove the cams, sohc you dont.