Neth

Hey guys, doing my first full engine rebuild on a D16Z6, got everything out, sent to the machine shop, got it back now I'm working on the re-assembly and I got stuck.


https://i.imgur.com/1FWy4Lo.jpg

The rockers on the bottom side that are shiny side up. Is that how they should be oriented when I put it back in? I can't find anything in my Haynes manual or the service manual about it, and this part was sent to the machine shop more or less in one piece so I'm putting something back together that I didn't take apart.

One other question I'm almost afraid to ask because I am past that already but... in californiadad's rebuild post he has picture talking about an oil control o-ring. I have that piece in my gasket kit, put it in the correct place, but looking in my manual it references and oil control orifice like there should be another piece. am I missing a piece or should it just be that ring and the haynes manual is wrong? I can't even find it in the cylinder head parts list on hondaautomotiveparts.com . Thanks for any help you got, this has been quite a lesson on patience haha

TomCat39

No other piece, orifice means hole, so the oil control hole which you have the gasket around.

The orifices in your head are your ear holes, your nostrils, your mouth, and your eye sockets.

Hope that clarifies.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

ROCKERS - Those are supposed to ride on the cam lobe, the ones facing up are specifically for the VTEC lobe.

O-RING - The missing piece is the oil control jet. That O-ring goes around the jet and the jet is fitted into the orifice. From that picture it looks like the jet is still installed. Pull it out, it should look like this (disregard the difference in size between the two pics):





O-ring installed:

TomCat39

Thank you, I stand corrected. The o-ring is sitting there in his picture and he said he looked at the parts break down and couldn't find anything. So it looked like it may be complete. In my defense, there also wasn't a picture of the bottom of the rocker assembly to give a clear indication of more to be over the jet hole so I based my conclusion off of the information OP presented. As far as I could guess on the fly, it was setup like the lower spark tower seals on the non vtec 1.5 liter assemblies that require just the o-rings.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

^No biggie, I was staring at those pictures for a while myself before I understood what was going on.

Neth

ok, so I'm probably being dense, but are you saying that i have them oriented incorrectly or are they ok? sorry for not understanding, i definitely regret not taking this apart more myself so i knew how to put it back together.

i circled the part i meant just so i'm not confusing you or myself with what things are called.


aaargh, guess i need to pull it apart and see if i can find that.

TomCat39

Yes, those flat spot you circled are supposed to be in contact with the lobes on the cam. They are 180 degrees out of position by the looks.

Also, have you been using assembly lube on all the lobes and journals etc while putting it together? Failure to do so will cause quite a bit of damage prior to oil reaching the areas. All the parts are sparkling clean from the machine shop so there is no lube in place until the oil gets up there from the oil pump after assembly. Assembly lube is required so it sticks to the metal for the whole assembly process, oil is thin enough it may not leave a good enough residue throughout the assembly process to provide adequate protection until the oil is pumped through and trapped in all the key areas.

Neth

that makes tons more sense, cause now it will push up on the lost motion assembly, duh. thanks.

i have been using assembly lube all over the cam shaft and where it's mentioned in the service manual. should i be using it elsewhere? I did notice that one of rockers moves slightly less freely than the others, but still moves pretty easily, should i be putting assembly lube on those also?

TomCat39

I'd personally be lubing all friction points. So the rocker arm bar (the tube/bar you slide the rocker arms onto), the cam lobes and the cam "bearing" areas. The tappets of the rocker arms and valves is the only point I wouldn't be concerned with. But I could also be shooting for overkill.

Hopefully someone with more assembly experience than I could chime in.

CoupeD16z6Civic

I'm also going to be building my D16z6, with the right parts do you think it could handle a supercharger and turbo? I didn't find (or really look) for a good forum on it. If so what parts are we thinking?? Eagle rods??

Neth

mine's a completely stock rebuild with no plans to turbo so I have no idea. https://honda-tech.com/forums/forced-induction-16/d16z6-turbo-build-help-3197830/ might help?

Neth

New question, should I be able to rotate the cam gear by hand after I get the lost motion holder installed and tightened down? it won't turn easily and I don't want to go further if it should. I can't find anything about it until you turn the engine by rotating the crankshaft after re-installing the timing belt.

edit: thinking about it, probably not because the pistons need to move at the same time hence the not moving until you can turn it from the crank bolt.

TomCat39

Not only that, even if the pistons are all mid range so there is room for the valves, you'd have to overcome the valve springs when turning the cam shaft by hand, so no, it won't be easy as some lobes start to push the rocker arms to push down on the valve stems to open the valves.

Most of the resistance I believe is in the head not the block.

CoupeD16z6Civic

Thanks

Neth

alright, new stupid question. to set the timing it says to rotate the crankshaft bolt counterclockwise so the camshaft goes back 3 teeth, tighten the tensioner, rotate the crank a couple rotations to verify all is good. this is all good and well except counterclockwise just loosens the crankshaft bolt so i cant turn it over. do i need tighten that bolt down a lot more to be able to do this? i haven't put the pulley and covers on yet so I was trying not to since that will make it super annoying to get back off, but if it's the only way, it's the only way!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Yes.

Neth

woo, got that done, valve adjustment complete, more pieces/parts bolted on, ready to torque down the crankshaft bolt to full 180 ft/lbs but the only stuff I see on how to do that uses a tool that appears to work well if the engine is in the car, not on a stand? suggestions on a safe way to do this?

Former User

Alternatively, you could wait to torque the bolt after the engine is installed.

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

^That's what I do. If you want a cheap tool though and can wait for shipping time:

http://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/TWT-0...00100-RGH.html

Other than that, you can get creative with some large flat heads and somehow wedge them into the teeth of the flywheel to make it act as stopper while you torque the bolt down.

Neth

of course lol

Neth

the ever hopeful last question. I have 1 bolt/washer leftover and i'm pretty sure it goes in the hole just to the right of where i have it laying here
but what they heck is it for and is that right? it appears to be on this breakout as number 19 and 25 for the washer. and it is of course not referenced in any section of the Haynes manual that i can find.