KiDDD...

Whats up H-T,

A new problem has appeared, again. It's a trip how my car has been running fine for years and now all kinds of stuff has been going to shieeet.

Specs: Complete D16y8 swap.

Problem: When I start the car, my idle is fine. Does'nt want to shut off or anything. Everything appears good. Once I start driving, when I come to any stand still (red lights / stop signs) my car kinda bogs and feels like it wants to turn off. The RPM doesnt go all the way down BUT, it does do a sharp decrease and then back to normal. Nowhere near 0 RPM though. It doesnt fluctuate!!! or go crazy in any way. It simply decreases and then goes back to normal. Decreases and then goes back to normal again. I can faintly hear the engine want to turn off.

Been doing it slightly for a while, but now it bogs maybe like 8-10 times at every red light. I press the gas pedal to alittle above 1,000 just to be safe and not wanting it to shut off on me. When I'm driving everything seems fine.

Lets eliminate a couple of things I know are new.
Battery.
Alternator.
Fuel Filter.
Spark Plugs.
Clean VTEC solenoid. <--doesnt matter but yeah haha.

I've searched some threads and some people say it might be a:

Dirty IACV
Dirty FCV
Vacuum Leak
Messed up Idle
Fuel Filter (already fixed and not the problem)

what do you guys think? or is it something else? Thanks for the help guys, lets crack this ****.

HondaPartsHero

I'd start with cleaning the IACV and FITV and go from there. I mean its a free thing to do.

eg6_trust

Clean ur IACV change ur spark plug wires and check ur fuel lines it could be any of those things and check if ur spark plugs have the right gap size for your car good luck

KiDDD...

sounds good guys, I'll clean the IACV and FITV first.

I'll change the wires as well.

I'll check the gap on my spark plugs as well.

How can I check my fuel lines?

carlos8

clean your IACV and FITV then set your idle at honda spec. Then post your results. Good luck.

KiDDD...

Just got to school and the CEL came on....pulled CEL #22...going to class I'll post after. (havent gotten a chance to do anything today) hope this gives a better hint to what it might be...

themattman

mine is a turbo d16z6 and does the same thing so instead of slowing with the break use the trans to slow you down then use the brake when need it will keep it from quiting

KiDDD...

thats the thing bro, it doesnt shut off completely. It's just sudden sharp decreases and then back to normal. And not even that big of a decrease in the RPM level, but sometimes 2 come out quickly and it sounds like it wants to turn off.

So today when I got to school, CEL 22 never came back on, well actually no CEL came on. So it went away...weird. Car still goes down in RPMs at the lights. Havent gotten a chance to do anything, I apologize for that but I will on Saturday. All this will be taken care of. I'll keep you posted then. Thanks

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

well, check the CEL 22 and see what that comes up with.. might point you in the right direction.

joeshmo

Did you look for massive carbon buildup on the throttle plate? Idle issues usually boil down to clogged passages or non-functioning throttle body components. A sticky IACV could give you this problem.

KiDDD...

Alright guys, thanks for some input. Sorry for lagging it a bit, but things came up. Got the laptop outside by my car and I'm going to be cleaning all of the above mentioned. As I do, I will be posting results or changes that appear.

Somebody mentioned to check the GAP on my spark plugs...I picked up a set of NGK platinum Alloy Spark Plugs and had just installed them because I was TOLD that I'm not suppose to touch the gap in these, its simply plug and play type of a deal. If I'm wrong please correct me, and I'll change these suckers in like 5 mins.

For the CEL #22 issue (Vtec pressure sensor) , it has been coming off and on depending on days. Right now its off. Been like that for 2 days...right now its fine. I'll double check that nothing is loose

Thanks..

joeshmo

I would still CHECK the gap on the platinum plugs. It is supposed to be .044". My iridium NGKs were at .032. My V-powers were at .030.

Former User

If cleaning the IACV doesn't help, then check whether the PCV valve is clogged and then adjust the idle speed as detailed in the service manual.

By the way, the D16Y8 engine does not have a FITV and a bad FITV would not cause a low idle for a warm engine.

KiDDD...

alright guys.

took out the IACV, it was dirty but not too bad. Cleaned it out completely...drying as we speak.

Took off the PCV, it was also dirty, you couldnt really hear the little bearing moving around, just alittle bit. Cleaned it as well, drying as we speak.

Taking off the spark plugs right now...gimme a couple mins,

thanks guys...lets see if it solves the problem

KiDDD...

spark plugs were all below .040... most actually were around 0.35, I gap'd em to .044 just like the manual and joesmsho said.. gona start it and see what happens..

KiDDD...

Started it and it starts perfectly fine. idle's at about 800rpm.

Rev'd it to about 3k and the needle went straight down almost to 0 and the car felt as if it was going to shut off. After about 2 seconds it goes back up to normal...

what happened?

Former User

Check the plug wires, cap, and rotor. Is the ignition timing set to spec?

Any CEL codes?

joeshmo

Did you reset your ECM?

KiDDD...

No CEL codes.

Did not reset the ECU.

and I have no idea if the ignition timing is set to Spec...

I thought I was simply cleaning and installing... my bad.

So what do I do first, reset the ECU?

honestly, I dont know how to check the ignition timing...

KiDDD...

just checked the plug wires, cap and rotor are fine.

Former User

Restting the ECU is simple so do that and try again.

Also inspect the cap and rotor -- post pictures -- did you check the contact points.

You can resistance test spark plug wires.

There's a diagram in the FAQs sticky for adjusting the ignition timing.

KiDDD...

Disconnected the ECU, I'll let it chill for about 5 mins.

I never touched the cap and rotor though.... just the wires. And no I did not check the contact points, I figured if it was working fine before, it should be working fine now.. But I will gladly check them if you point me in the right direction please.

I'll also take a look at the sticky for ignition timing..

thanks

Former User

Just remove the cap to inspect the contact points inside the cap and on the rotor. Post pictures.

Also check for dust or oil inside the distributor.

joeshmo

I had a similar low idle/misfire and one of the reasons was due to my failed dizzy cap. I found an awful amount of water on the inside of it, as well as the button being broken. I cleaned off the rotor points and installed a new cap.

Be VERY VERY CAREFUL removing that bottom flat head screw. I stripped mine and had to drill/tap a new hole and it was a giant pain.

KiDDD...

ok, I reset the ECU, it started up fine, rev'd it to about 3k again, when the needle came back down it stopped at about 800rpm's...I thought problem solved. Rev'd it again, and it went back down to almost shutting off, but didnt...idle's at around 400 right now with occasional drop of RPM.