relentlesstech

The other day I installed a short RAM air intake, and everything was going fine until last night, while driving in the snow - My CEL came on, and my first thought was that I damaged the IAT sensor when installing the RAM, so I replaced it - That fixed the issue for about ... Ten minutes, then it came on again - My car is actually running better than it has in months, and my gas mileage has improved, so I'm trying to figure out what else the problem could be - I don't have access to a code scanner until Monday, and was hoping I could 'guess' on what it could be, and I'm coming up with either MAP sensor, or TPS sensor, but wouldn't either of those cause my car to run rough if they were bad?

HondaPartsHero

Pull the code using a paper clip or wire according to the method in the FAQ and post the codes

relentlesstech

Okay, managed to find the plug to jump (They hid it really well in a silicon holder o.O), and grabbed what I think is the code - It was a bit difficult to tell where the transition from long to short actually was, and there was one REALLY long one as soon as I turned the key on, before the long-short sequence started ...

What I came up with is either 65, or 75 - I watched it a few times, and could not tell if the shorts started on 6, or 7 :-/

I'll be pissed if this turns out to be an o2 sensor issue - I just replaced my manifold/cat and sensors two months ago!

Former User

Post a video of the blinking CEL.

relentlesstech

Former User

Codes 10 and 65

Reset the ECU to see whether the codes return.

carlos8

You have two codes.

10 = IAT

65 = secondary o2 heater

Since you Already replaced the IAT Reset the ECU, run the car and see if they pop out again.

relentlesstech

I've reset the ECU several times now, since doing the video, and the blink pattern still looks exactly the same - If the IAT is new, why would it still be throwing a code (I have a SRI, not stock airbox, but sensor is in the same spot as it would be on stock box, right in the middle of airflow)? And what exactly does the o2 sensor code mean? Everything is only two months old! I'm wondering if my missing splash guard under the car is the cause of the o2 issue - It got ripped off when I went over some frozen snow about a week ago, and I didn't even realize it until the other day, when I opened the hood, and was able to see ground straight down - Would cold water hitting the secondary o2 sensor cause that code? The IAT sensor plug also has moisture on it ...

Former User

1) Buy a splash guard.
2) Check whether fuse 15 is blown.
2) Ohm and voltage test the rear O2 sensor heater/wires and the IAT sensor/wires.

carlos8

The moisture in the IAT plug maybe affect, use some contact cleaner and check if you not damage some wire or the plug itself in the intake swap. Also you can back prove the IAT plug to be sure it's working right.

relentlesstech

Looks like I'm going to have to wait until next month to get a splash guard, and multimeter - My car has actually been running really well, so I'm wondering if there is any danger in still driving it until I can have the money to get what I need?

Former User

How did you reset the ECU?

Checking fuse 15 is simple.

You can buy a multimeter from Harbor Freight Tools for $4 on sale.

relentlesstech

I disconnected the negative terminal on my battery for 2-3 minutes to reset the ECU - If fuse 15 was blown, wouldn't there be other symptoms of it?

I just came from Harbor Freight, the one near me only has two different multis, and one is $24, and the other is $36 - They had one for $6, but sold out :-s

Former User

Try removing the 7.5A hood Back Up fuse for 5 minutes. Then reinstall the fuse, turn the key to ON(II), and check whether the CEL stays on steady or turns off after 2 seconds. If the CEL remains on, jump the service connector again to pull the code(s).

Turn the key from OFF to ON(II) (engine off). Does the cluster charging system warning light turn on and stay on?

This^ is the one that sells for $3-4 on sale. Look for coupons online. Is there another store in your locale?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Also check with friends and co-workers - you would be surprised who might have the right tool for you to borrow.

Another safe (and fool-proof) method of resetting your ECU is to disconnect the battery, then try to start the car. This will clear out any residual energy storing the codes. Reconnect the battery, and your ECU should be fully reset.

relentlesstech

Reset the ECU via Backup fuse, still get the same codes, then pulled negative terminal for 5 minutes, and still the same code - I did manage to pick up a multimeter from Harbor Freight for $6.99, but won't be able to do any checking at any point today because it is snowing pretty hard, and I don't have a garage o.O

relentlesstech

Okay, after doing some research related to the codes I have, I noticed that fuse #15 popping because of worn out insulation on the wiring harness is a common cause of the fuse blowing, and if my fuse 15 is blown, then I should have my answer (I am getting ready to go check my car now) - But if the fuse WAS blown, wouldn't that affect my speedometer, and keep my battery from charging?

Can someone point me to a quick DIY on how to use a multi to test the sensors? I have never used a multitester before (Although I did run through a couple of tutorials online, so I get the basics on actual use, but as far as how to test the sensors, I'm lost) ...

I have other questions, but I would first like to check my fuse, and voltages first, since that may fix the issues :-P

relentlesstech

just checked, and fuse number 15 is fine

tony_2018

Your posts are confusing..... you notice it popping and it not popping.

If the fuse is fine than you need to inspect the VSS plug for corrosion.

relentlesstech

I was just mentioning that from my research if my fuse 15 had been blown, that could have been the cause of it, but my fuse is not blown, so I have to start looking into other things