mdrouillard1983

I am doing a VTEC head swap, so I am also replacing timing belt, tensioner and water pump. After hours of struggling to remove the crank shaft pulley bolt finally got it! and trust me it was an ordeal, the only other bolt that wouldn't come off on this car was a rear control arm bolt which I had to cut off - this is second.

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Instructions


No need for a special tool, impact wrench (proved useless - mine anyways, which I think is weak), or a 6 foot bar. Just a strong set of legs, large socket wrench and a 17mm socket.

1) Jacked up drivers side of car, put in 1st gear (didn't matter - engine still spun)

2) Removed tire (loosen lugs first or use impact wrench - if you can't do this, don't try this)

3) You have to prevent the crank pulley/shaft from spinning, Honda sells a tool which can be used. Basically, what I did was take a strong wire cable from a notebook security lock with a loop. Looped it in the counter clockwise direction, and looped it around a bolt which I slid into one of the holes on the outer diameter of the pulley (there are 8 or so). The top part firmly looped around the drive side engine mount. I noticed on first attempt, my cable kept sliding off the pulley - SO, I used locking pliers on the bottom of the pulley to hold the cable in place to counter the rotational force of loosening the bolt.

4) Now that the pulley was locked in place, placed my socket and wrench on the bolt. It won't move by hand, if you have a 3 foot extension bar (which I didn't use that and connect to a breaker bar on he end. What I did was, got under the car feet facing toward the back, socket handle facing down; pushed as hard as I could with one foot and then both. I workout 6 days a week so I know I can push close to 500lb leg press, finally after pushing with all the strength I had it broke lose.

5) The pulley will now be literally stuck on even with bolt removed, use a small pry bar, screwdriver or whatever; wedge it behind the pulley between the oil pan/block and pry back and fourth. Mine broke loose relatively quickly, now wiggle the pulley off as best you can - it will come off.

Side note, remember to rotate crank back to TDC (CYLINDER ONE ALL THE WAY UP) when placing timing belt back on.

Hope this helps someone else, I didn't need heat, my compressor and impact wrench couldn't cut it (maybe a heavy duty shop one will).

hardcore97

5th gear works better than first.

mdrouillard1983

I realized that but it still spun albeit harder - good point, 5th will provide a bit more resistance.

TomCat39

Good job. I don't look forward to that bit once I need to sit down and do it.

It's about a hundred bucks for a torque multiplier that has a max torque of 745 ft-lbs. Think that might be the way for me to go.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

I always PB soak overnight, so far so good. Luck maybe.