Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
#76
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Thread Starter
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
I am so looking forward to that part. Body Work will be coming soon as i move to the new casa, Or enroll in school and use my car as my grade thing. That will be happening sometime this summer or fall. All i need is some place with a garage!
I must at this point Bump a Very good post from this thread.
This was a great link man thank you.
Ok ,
Now here we go with the update!
New CV Axles. One for each side. If one side is bad you might as well do the other side. Both left and right axle had ripped boots and the left side was clicking when i turned. "This is a sure sign you need to replace it"
It was about 100$ for both. There is a 20$ core for each also.
You may see this tool at the store to rent. If you use it be careful not to rip your ball joint boot. It is very easy to accidentally do with this tool. I recommend not using this tool at all. The best way IMHO to get the ball joint popped out is the wrench trick.
Ok . you remember where we left off?
I had the wheel off and the hub stuck on the axle "not budging!"
We soaked it in bolt unlocker And hammered the living **** out of it. Still it defied us and shrugged us off easily.
We needed a new tool!
This is an attachment for a slide hammer. Basicly works the same as a steering wheel puller. You attach it to the one item by two screws. "the studs in this case" Then you use the big screw in the center as a pusher on the axle.
We tried the sterring wheel puller and it bent the bolts we where using.
We used this tool and it just completeley smashed the end of the screwpiston part of the tool. I mean it messed it up bad. lol
Look at it just sitting there all proud , knowing we lay powerless in it's wake. What? I don't think so . . . . .
We take this not lightly!
We disconnect the hub from everything and pull the Axle out with the hub attached! To get it out of the tranny you should use a prybar. it comes out easy with one. but. . .
Dont forget to drain the tran fluid out first. You can see here more came out then we bargand for.
OK ! 1 , 2 , 3 , BAM! BAM! BAM! Damnit still stuck!
I read that if you cant get it off you can use a blow torche to heat it up and break it loose.
We dont have a blow torche. But we have starter fluid!
be carefull folks at home!
Basicly the idea is to get the metal warmed up.
^ Thats my favorite! So cool looking. Got any smores?
VICTORIOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After the we put the heat on it it broke free with a couple taps with the hammer. Nice job everyone!
Look at the end of that thing LOL. It put up a noble fight! I will remember it for always.
Nice new CV Axle installed!!!! YAY
Went around to the other side and started. Got to the axle and tapped it with the hammer ! it came right out first tap "SIGH" No problems at all on the passenger side.
DONT FORGET FOLKS ! ! ! !
Notch that bad boy with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. You dont want that coming off while yo are driving.
Same thing with all the other components you unfastend to replace this. Most of the screws have cotter pins to stop them from backing out . Make sure you replace all these when putting it back together.
Also dont forget to refill the tran fluid ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Mean while some strange things where happening in the street in front of the house! WTF?!?!?! lol
More coming soon!
I must at this point Bump a Very good post from this thread.
here's a great axle replacement DIY
http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42185
http://hondacivicforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=42185
Ok ,
Now here we go with the update!
New CV Axles. One for each side. If one side is bad you might as well do the other side. Both left and right axle had ripped boots and the left side was clicking when i turned. "This is a sure sign you need to replace it"
It was about 100$ for both. There is a 20$ core for each also.
You may see this tool at the store to rent. If you use it be careful not to rip your ball joint boot. It is very easy to accidentally do with this tool. I recommend not using this tool at all. The best way IMHO to get the ball joint popped out is the wrench trick.
Ok . you remember where we left off?
I had the wheel off and the hub stuck on the axle "not budging!"
We soaked it in bolt unlocker And hammered the living **** out of it. Still it defied us and shrugged us off easily.
We needed a new tool!
This is an attachment for a slide hammer. Basicly works the same as a steering wheel puller. You attach it to the one item by two screws. "the studs in this case" Then you use the big screw in the center as a pusher on the axle.
We tried the sterring wheel puller and it bent the bolts we where using.
We used this tool and it just completeley smashed the end of the screwpiston part of the tool. I mean it messed it up bad. lol
Look at it just sitting there all proud , knowing we lay powerless in it's wake. What? I don't think so . . . . .
We take this not lightly!
We disconnect the hub from everything and pull the Axle out with the hub attached! To get it out of the tranny you should use a prybar. it comes out easy with one. but. . .
Dont forget to drain the tran fluid out first. You can see here more came out then we bargand for.
OK ! 1 , 2 , 3 , BAM! BAM! BAM! Damnit still stuck!
I read that if you cant get it off you can use a blow torche to heat it up and break it loose.
We dont have a blow torche. But we have starter fluid!
be carefull folks at home!
Basicly the idea is to get the metal warmed up.
^ Thats my favorite! So cool looking. Got any smores?
VICTORIOUS!!!!!!!!!!!!!
After the we put the heat on it it broke free with a couple taps with the hammer. Nice job everyone!
Look at the end of that thing LOL. It put up a noble fight! I will remember it for always.
Nice new CV Axle installed!!!! YAY
Went around to the other side and started. Got to the axle and tapped it with the hammer ! it came right out first tap "SIGH" No problems at all on the passenger side.
DONT FORGET FOLKS ! ! ! !
Notch that bad boy with a flat head screw driver and a hammer. You dont want that coming off while yo are driving.
Same thing with all the other components you unfastend to replace this. Most of the screws have cotter pins to stop them from backing out . Make sure you replace all these when putting it back together.
Also dont forget to refill the tran fluid ! ! ! ! ! ! !
Mean while some strange things where happening in the street in front of the house! WTF?!?!?! lol
More coming soon!
Last edited by courtney42; 05-19-2009 at 09:13 PM.
#77
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
nice
you totally pwned that axle
and so that's a ball joint separator... i have one in my garage, sweet!
i'll be replacing my axles soon... stupid torn boots.
quick question you might know the answer to...
do you need a press to put a new lower ball joint in? i have to replace those too when i replace the axles.
you totally pwned that axle
and so that's a ball joint separator... i have one in my garage, sweet!
i'll be replacing my axles soon... stupid torn boots.
quick question you might know the answer to...
do you need a press to put a new lower ball joint in? i have to replace those too when i replace the axles.
Last edited by trustdestruction; 03-02-2009 at 09:55 PM.
#79
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Thread Starter
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
When you find out please do a thread on the work to replace them. I will need to replace one of mine soon i have a ripped boot on one. I also need to figure out how to replace the wheel studs. Two of mine got bashed a little in the battle.
Last edited by courtney42; 03-03-2009 at 06:21 AM.
#82
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
Hey... could you possibly go into a little more detail on the clicking when turning thing? I started to hear that and I thought it might just be because the car is lowered or something, but I guess I was hoping for an easy answer. any guides or troubleshooting info, or what needs to be looked at/replaced? I'll do a search too, but I like this thread because I think you are doing a great job on the sol, and wanted to bump it anyway.
EDIT: I'm just dumb and didn't read closely enough. If I have that same clicking problem I just need to replace the CV joints then? How long did this take you to do? seeing as you seem pretty mechanically oriented. and... how necessary is it that these be replaced soon? I'm not sure I will have enough time for maybe a month in order to be able to do this myself, so I'm wondering if I should bother paying a shop or just wait till I have a good weekend to do it.
EDIT: I'm just dumb and didn't read closely enough. If I have that same clicking problem I just need to replace the CV joints then? How long did this take you to do? seeing as you seem pretty mechanically oriented. and... how necessary is it that these be replaced soon? I'm not sure I will have enough time for maybe a month in order to be able to do this myself, so I'm wondering if I should bother paying a shop or just wait till I have a good weekend to do it.
Last edited by Uberfit; 03-03-2009 at 07:53 AM.
#85
Junior Member
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
nice read, glad to see you are rescuing a honda from the dead. Just wondered did you get a salvage title for it since you bought it from the junkyard? As for the lower ball joints, honda sells a 2 piece tool to press them out, looks like a cup and another piece that fits inside it. It used to both press the old one out and the new one in. They arent cheap! Especially for somthing you will only likely use once. Theres probably an easier way though..... Best thing you can get if you havent already is a helms manual!! not a haynes, they suck.
#86
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
one more question, because I am figuring I willo need to replace those CV joints... where di you get them for $100 and are they good quality?
#89
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
Check the manual or ask someone at the auto parts store. I'm not sure about that one. When i disconnected mine i used the ball joint separator , when i stuck it back together i just stuck the bolt into the hole attached the nut and let it do all the work as i tightened it up.
When you find out please do a thread on the work to replace them. I will need to replace one of mine soon i have a ripped boot on one. I also need to figure out how to replace the wheel studs. Two of mine got bashed a little in the battle.
When you find out please do a thread on the work to replace them. I will need to replace one of mine soon i have a ripped boot on one. I also need to figure out how to replace the wheel studs. Two of mine got bashed a little in the battle.
if it requires a press though i'll probably just get it done at the shop i am planning on getting my alignment done at right afterwards... i don't remember how much the guy quoted me, but i remember it sounding like a good deal and if i'd need a press it's definitely a good deal.
#91
Honda-Tech Member
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
nice job so far.
I was wondering if you had an extra drivers side window guide/track?
Its the track the window rides in at the back of the drivers side door. I need one badly!!!!!
I was wondering if you had an extra drivers side window guide/track?
Its the track the window rides in at the back of the drivers side door. I need one badly!!!!!
#92
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Thread Starter
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
If I have that same clicking problem I just need to replace the CV joints then? How long did this take you to do? seeing as you seem pretty mechanically oriented. and... how necessary is it that these be replaced soon? I'm not sure I will have enough time for maybe a month in order to be able to do this myself, so I'm wondering if I should bother paying a shop or just wait till I have a good weekend to do it.
A shop will charge you 70 - 90 $ an hour for labor to replace the whole axle. The job , if there are no stuck axles like mine takes about two hours. You do the math. It was really easy to do you should try to yourself.
As for the lower ball joints, honda sells a 2 piece tool to press them out, looks like a cup and another piece that fits inside it. It used to both press the old one out and the new one in. They arent cheap! Especially for somthing you will only likely use once. Theres probably an easier way though..... Best thing you can get if you havent already is a helms manual!! not a haynes, they suck.
I have the Haynes manual and yeah it sucks, i will look for that Helms! Thanks. I have found each manual shows different parts and leaves out other parts. crazy.
I do have some tracks , i will PM you if its the one you are needing. chances are good i have that one!
Last edited by courtney42; 03-04-2009 at 06:47 AM.
#94
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
this is a nice build you have. one of the most descriptive builds i have seen in a long time. what are your plans for that quarter panel? keep up the good work.
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
Thanks for the descriptive replies, its very helpful... I still haven't gotten around to fixing the darn door locks, I have been busy with school, but whatever... some weekend when I get home I will do it. Another question though relating to the CV joints(possibly)... I recently developed a weird shaking problem when I let go of the gas. Sometimes,(randomly) when I let go of the pedal going like 30-40ish, it starts shaking the wheel pretty hard and pulling to the right,(at first I thought maybe I had a flat tire or something) then if I put my foot back on the gas even a little, it goes away instantly, but if I let go again it shakes hard and pulls. If I then slow down alot to like 5-10 miles an hour, or slow enough to make a turn, and speed back up to 30 or whatever the speed limit is, the next time I let go of the pedal its fine again, no shaking, no pulling. It has happened twice at about the same time at the tail end of a 20 minute car ride home from school. Is it possible this is being caused by the bad CV joints? Any info would be helpful... I think I will post this in the main section too, but I like your responses because they tend to be precise. THANKS!
#99
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Thread Starter
Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
Buying a new rear center console section! Found some one who was parting out a sol. Hope it comes soon.
Also - getting a new passenger side srs. I will do a writeup on install on this one.
@ an earlier question. "what am i doing about the big quarter panel problem?"
I will try to pull it , if push comes to shove i will have to weld on a new panel. Hope it doesn't get to that.
Right now i ran into another snag that needs to be addressed. The steering boots are ripped and one is leaking fluid. "passenger side is leaking" So it looks like i have to rebuild that. I have never rebuilt this stuff before so it will be a learning experience. I hear the job is a half day job. gerrrrrr. Expect a write up on this too.
Should i be doing these as separate threads?
Also - getting a new passenger side srs. I will do a writeup on install on this one.
@ an earlier question. "what am i doing about the big quarter panel problem?"
I will try to pull it , if push comes to shove i will have to weld on a new panel. Hope it doesn't get to that.
Right now i ran into another snag that needs to be addressed. The steering boots are ripped and one is leaking fluid. "passenger side is leaking" So it looks like i have to rebuild that. I have never rebuilt this stuff before so it will be a learning experience. I hear the job is a half day job. gerrrrrr. Expect a write up on this too.
Should i be doing these as separate threads?
#100
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Re: Courtneys' 94 Sol - Rags to ritches build
I didn't read anything past the first page (just putting that out there now).
I'm not sure how you reasoned that it was worth it to fix it up, but it's coming along nice never-the-less.
Also, what motor does it have? You originally said it was a JDM motor, what's the code?
I'm not sure how you reasoned that it was worth it to fix it up, but it's coming along nice never-the-less.
Also, what motor does it have? You originally said it was a JDM motor, what's the code?