Jimi Hondrix

Yes, the sounds is definitely in the left front when turning left.

The mechanic that installed the hub did take a prybar to the upper control arm area while he had on a jack. He didn't say anything about the UCA, but, I can't say for sure he was specifically testing the UCA.. I will take some pics, maybe a vid and test the UCA tomorrow and report back. I did asked him if the upper ball joint is still good and he said yes.

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks. My daughter's $1600 car is turning into a $3000 car Next time I will just buy a 3K one with no issues

Jimi Hondrix

My son and I jacked the front end up on stands and I had him turn the steering wheel while I spun the tire (in neutral) and as before the knuckle arm hit the shock springs. However, it did this on the both the front left and right sides.
While spinning the left front tire in full left turn position there was an intermittent scraping. I checked the dust shield and it was not touching the rim or rotor. I felt behind the hub, rotor and rim but, did not feel any physical scraping. We did the same checks for the right side and there's no scraping or noise while spinning the tire and turning the steering wheel.
We tested the upper control arms and upper ball joints on both sides and they seem to be working properly and bushings look really good.

We put the tires back on, let the car down and turned the steering wheel fully side to side and there is no scraping or noise and the knuckle is not hitting the shock springs at all on either side. We took the car to an empty parking lot and my son walked alongside the car while I did tight radius turns. While in full left turn the grinding/knocking noise appeared again and my son said it sounds like the caliper or possibly the brake pads is the source. I listened more intently and agreed. Makes sense because the issue didn't start until after I replaced the front left brake caliper and pads. The base price ($13) pads I purchased from O' Reilly's seemed to be very thick yet, they did seat after compressing the caliper piston. I think I will take the pads in to compare their thickness with higher quality ceramic pads they sell.
The car coasts well while driving and putting transmission in neutral at speed. So, at this point I feel some relief because it doesn't appear to be a shock, control arm, wheel bearing, CV axle, or tie rod issue. Does seem to be either the caliper or brake pad issue but, it seems to brake fine and without shuddering.

Attached a few images. I sprayed the left front knuckle and shock spring with lube last night (careful not to spray rubber parts). So, that sheen is not oil leaking.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

There is a way to check if it's the pads rubbing the rotors. Do a tight left turn to get the car to make the noise. While it's making the noise, use your left foot to gently press into the brake pedal. You will need to add a little more throttle as you add a little more brake to maintain the same speed. If the noise goes away when you're on the brakes, and comes back when you're off, it's most most likely due to the pads rubbing the rotor in a turn.

If this is the case, and your confidence in the vehicle is up, I would probably try a hard-bedding-in on your new brake pads 1st. This can help quiet them down.

Instructions for bedding in your brakes

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks, I will try that and give results in about an hour.

Jimi Hondrix

I tried it following your instructions and noise is still there when braking and without braking.

I need to revamp my description of the noise as I did more tight turns a few minutes ago. The noise is a not a grinding it's a thumping, it's felt through the steering wheel also and it seems to occur once every 360 degree of tire rotation and only while the wheel is at farthest left position. Does not occur during normal turns and straight driving.
The noise seems to emanate near the top of the shock/control arm instead of the caliper.
Is it possible the upper control arm could it be shifting or sliding abnormally across the bushings? I checked for physical movement by checking them visually during various turn points...drive forward a bit, get out of car and check, repeat a few times and the UCA seemed to shift slightly side to side.

Tomorrow I plan to re-torque the UCA. Can the bushing be lubed with synthetic grease?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Checking the torque is good, just don't over tighten them. The major trick with tightening & torquing bushing bolts is that it must be done with the car on the ground at normal ride height. This prevents twist in the bushings when the car is on the ground.

And no you can't lube the bushings. There is no sliding lubricated surface (like polyurethane). The rubber is fused to both the inner & outer metal of the bushing. As the suspension moves, the rubber twists.

Your new description sounds more like a worn outer CV joint. Full steering lock puts the outer CV joint of the inside wheel at it's greatest angle of attack. This is where outer CV problems start to show up. If this is the case, it will probably get worse over time. If the boot is still sealed, it's kinda odd. Though not unheard of.

Axle swap is a fun DIY for the beginner. They are pretty cheap at Autozone, and have lifetime replacement. Though they are not the best quality, but get the job done. If you are strapped for time or cash, you can always let it go a while until it gets worse.

Jimi Hondrix

From all the reading I've done over the past two weeks I also considered the outer CV to be a possible culprit and the boot is intact without leaks. As you mentioned and other threads I've read the outer joint can be worn without showing physical signs. The left front also has a minimal wobble or shake that would suggest a CV axle. I replaced one on my previous '98 civic using an Autozone part and it worked fine for two years, then I sold the car.

One of the mechanics said that with Accords and Civics of the mid- late 90's the transmission piece (differential?) that the inner CV axle inserts into can also be an issue.
Being that this is seemingly the last piece of the puzzle and pretty much everything else has been ruled out I will install a new one this weekend.

Thank you for all your help 94eg and to all others that replied. I can't say this a done deal until the new CV axle goes in but, it definitely helps having people with greater knowledge on this site to assist.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I've run Autozone axles on several cars for years. Only once did I get a bad one that caused vibration right after install. They swapped it out no problem, but it cost me a few hours. I currently have a pair on my CRX and they are at least 4 and 7 years old. Only now one of mine is starting to crack, so I will probably trade it in before it makes a mess of my relatively grease free engine bay.

The lifetime warranty is nice, and having it stored under your permanent phone number is even better. I you must replace an axle, its kinda hard to beat.

Jimi Hondrix

Should I get a re-manufactured or a new one for $10 more? I plan on replacing the inner shaft seal as well.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I don't know, I've only used re-manufactured ones. For $10 more, new sounds pretty good though.

tony_2018

Get new...I've had horrors of replacing remaufacture axles.......they weren't really remanufactured properly to spec. I had one joint just fall off of the axle inside the boot.

tony_2018

Even if you were to buy a 3k car you probably would've spent some cash flow on doing maintenance work on it regardless. I think you're doing fine in making sure your daughters car is well maintain before handing it over to her. I want you to know I spent well over 3k myself on my sisters 95 acura integra SE before giving it to her, add another 2k to recently replace the motor and do maintenance work as well. But my mind is at ease because I know this car has lasted her for 10 yrs and looks like it will last her quite awhile. I'm waiting for the transmission to go out and she will decide what she wants to do, either get another car or replace the tranny.

Jimi Hondrix

The new tires + lifetime rotation/balancing + lifetime alignment + 1/2 priced road hazard was the biggest expense at $600. They have already re-balanced them a week after I bough them. When I get the new (not re-manufactured) CV joint I will have them balanced and front end aligned. At every 4K miles I will have them rotated,balanced and alignment check.
The parts are adding up but, still under $500. Knowledge gained in repair work and what to look for in future used car purchases accounts for something on the positive side of this purchase. I thought I knew better beforehand and I thought I knew enough to keep my daughter away from a bad buy and the very thing I was hoping to avoid is now somewhat a reality. However that depends on the length of service life this car provides.
Another positive is, she really wanted to find an old BMW or Audi in the $1500 to $2000 price range and we did look at a few..they don't seem to hold up well in high mileage and the cost of the parts would be (I assume) much higher.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Yes the cost of German parts is astronomical. Your Honda looks to be in very good shape underneath so you should be happy. Once you sort the noise & vibration, it will likely last a LOOOOONG time to come. These cars are great to learn car maintenance. I have a 94 Civic that's currently in better shape than it was when I bought it in 1999. I think it has 184k miles and has dozens & dozens of fun upgrades. I also have an 89 CRX with almost 230k miles and it still runs fantastic. It too is in much better mechanical shape than it was when we bought in 2001 (paint is all faded though). I taught my self everything by working on these cars.

The major plus about Hondas:
- great reliability
- inexpensive OEM parts
- plentiful new & used parts
- large number of shared parts between other cars
- easy to work on
- knowledgeable online community
- unlimited OEM modifications
- unlimited Aftermarket modifications

tony_2018

I've had things show up after purchasing a vehicle as well but I'm not gonna sweat it, just repair/replace it. I'll never let anything get me down.

Jimi Hondrix

I bought a new cv axle from carquest CARQUEST - Product Information:SurTrack New CV Axle and purchased an impact deep socket set 10-32mm fro HF. Could not get the spindle nut off using a 1/2' breaker bar with extension pipe.My brother has an air gun and compressor at his place so, it's looking like this Sunday to do the repair.

Most people on line said the left outer CV joint makes the thumping sound when turning right (and vice versa) however, the left front thumping only happens when I do a full-lock left turn. Is this possible?

My previous '98 civic ex coupe (MT) was a good car and I felt comfortable steering my daughter towards one. We also considered other Japanese makes but, there wasn't many available at the time. I still have faith that once this left front noise is fixed the most concerning issues are behind us.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Because of "ackerman" in the steering geometry, the inside wheel will always turn more than the outside one. If the problem in a CV shows up at a high enough angle, I could see it being on the inside of a turn and not on the outside. I've never personally had a bad outer CV so I can't really comment on how it shows up.

Ackerman illustration I found.

TomCat39

To pop the nuts on both my car and at the junk yard, I've had to stand on my 4 foot breaker bar and bounce up and down. That is after I also hammered a flat tip screwdriver into the staked part to bend it back out. I weigh around 220 now a days and if I had not bounced on my breaker bar to the point of worrying that I was gonna break the bar, those nuts would have never budged. There was no way I was going to pop them free with my arms even with an extension.

Jimi Hondrix

I should have watched a few youtube clips for tips on the axle nut removal before I started.
My brother said his air gun won't do it either so I'll try this tips + PB blaster:



By the way does anyone have a coupe master window switch for sale?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I've had to use both methods though I never supported the breaker with a jackstand. That's a pretty good idea.

I only did the screwdriver-in-the-rotor trick at the junk yard on a rotor I was going to toss. I wouldn't do that if I was going to re-use the rotor.

BTW: Only put those nuts back on with a proper torque wrench. It will save you this trouble in the future. They usually come right off with a breaker & pipe......even when staked down. I don't think I've ever had to un-stake the nut to break it loose (though I don't stake them a whole lot to begin with).

tony_2018

I've used both those methods but the first video is the one I've been doing for quite some time. Even when tightening as well.

Jimi Hondrix

The last mechanic used an air gun last week and never bothered with the torque spec.

Just a side-note of observation.. for whatever reason some of the local mechanics in my area seem to trust a floor jack with their life. Been to three within the past month and they never put a jack stand under the car after they lifted it and they had at least one body part under the car. I always use a stand(s) and leave the floor jack in place too.. borderline phobic under a car but, like like to avoid mechanic fees and learn a few things.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

Interesting that this image applies to both impact-tools AND jack-stands. This is the reason I refuse to go to mechanics.

tony_2018

Hahahahahahahahhaah