coolant reservoir slowly filling up
06-19-2008, 06:51 AM
#1
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coolant reservoir slowly filling up
what does it mean when your reservoir slowly filling up? i had my coolant down to min and now it's a little passed the maximun line. i'm afraid it might go all the way to the top. if that happens, what's going to happen?
note: t-stat, radiator, radi cap, already been repleaced recently.
note: t-stat, radiator, radi cap, already been repleaced recently.
06-19-2008, 06:55 AM
#2
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (G2_Fella)
mark it, note it, if it starts filling it up, constantly, then worry about a head gasket. whats the climate like where you are?
what all is done to the car?
what all is done to the car?
06-19-2008, 07:05 AM
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (boostedcivicsir)
Either way ide be definately conserned. Sounds like a headgasket problem to me.
Check these:
-Is your Temp Gauge above normal?
-Grey/white smoke coming out of the exhaust?
-remove your oil cap and is there any residew on the end of the cap?
Check these:
-Is your Temp Gauge above normal?
-Grey/white smoke coming out of the exhaust?
-remove your oil cap and is there any residew on the end of the cap?
06-19-2008, 07:09 AM
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (boostedcivicsir)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by boostedcivicsir »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">mark it, note it, if it starts filling it up, constantly, then worry about a head gasket. whats the climate like where you are?
what all is done to the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah, that's why i check it every other day, keepin my eyes on it real close this time. my mech did told me to get a head gasket done. people here said it could not be the hg(this was before replacing the radiator). i'm pretty anxious to take it for a small road trip, but at the same time scared it might broke down.
i live in a perfect climate weather.
i did a major maintenace to the car: new spark plugs, sp wires, distributor cap n rotor, new heater core hose, t-stat, radiator, radi cap, replaced alternator belt, new a/c belt, new fuel cap, new valve cover oil cap, flushed out tranny fluid.
Modified by G2_Fella at 4:15 PM 6/19/2008
Modified by G2_Fella at 4:17 PM 6/19/2008
what all is done to the car?</TD></TR></TABLE>yeah, that's why i check it every other day, keepin my eyes on it real close this time. my mech did told me to get a head gasket done. people here said it could not be the hg(this was before replacing the radiator). i'm pretty anxious to take it for a small road trip, but at the same time scared it might broke down.
i live in a perfect climate weather.
i did a major maintenace to the car: new spark plugs, sp wires, distributor cap n rotor, new heater core hose, t-stat, radiator, radi cap, replaced alternator belt, new a/c belt, new fuel cap, new valve cover oil cap, flushed out tranny fluid.
Modified by G2_Fella at 4:15 PM 6/19/2008
Modified by G2_Fella at 4:17 PM 6/19/2008
06-19-2008, 07:22 AM
#5
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (DSRxNATE DNRperformance)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSRxNATE DNRperformance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Either way ide be definately conserned. Sounds like a headgasket problem to me.
Check these:
-Is your Temp Gauge above normal?
-Grey/white smoke coming out of the exhaust?
-remove your oil cap and is there any residew on the end of the cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not sure where a normal temp gauge should be. but it's right in between the hot and cold.
no grey/white smoke.
oil cap seems pretty clean.
Check these:
-Is your Temp Gauge above normal?
-Grey/white smoke coming out of the exhaust?
-remove your oil cap and is there any residew on the end of the cap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
i'm not sure where a normal temp gauge should be. but it's right in between the hot and cold.
no grey/white smoke.
oil cap seems pretty clean.
06-19-2008, 08:09 AM
#7
Former Moderator
Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (King V)
There's a couple of different symptons a blown head gasket will exhibit, and filling the overflow bottle up is definately one of them.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.
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06-19-2008, 08:30 AM
#8
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (King V)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by King V »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Make sure you purge all the air out of the system before you go and get a head gasket done.</TD></TR></TABLE>
so you're saying get the hg done?
so you're saying get the hg done?
06-19-2008, 08:36 AM
#9
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a couple of different symptons a blown head gasket will exhibit, and filling the overflow bottle up is definately one of them.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you so much for explaining it loud and clear. assuming i know how to fix the hg done myself, how much would it cost? parts,,,resurface,,,etc.
and if i go to a shop,,,what would be a fair price? so far the lowest i found are $450-$1200. could you break it down for me,,,parts, labor, resurface. give me the standard fair price.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
thank you so much for explaining it loud and clear. assuming i know how to fix the hg done myself, how much would it cost? parts,,,resurface,,,etc.
and if i go to a shop,,,what would be a fair price? so far the lowest i found are $450-$1200. could you break it down for me,,,parts, labor, resurface. give me the standard fair price.
06-19-2008, 09:23 AM
#10
Former Moderator
Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (G2_Fella)
I'm not a big fan of doing head gasket jobs on these engines, especially if they have over 150K on them. Sometimes when you freshen up the top end the bottom end begins to smoke, and if the engine has overheated enough to damage the head gasket then alao untold damge can be done to the bottom end too, such as heat stressing the piston rings, etc.
If you are going for absolute bottom dollar repair then I'd say be prepared to buy an intake manifold gasket, head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, coolant, valve cover gasket/set, or just buy what's called a "head set" that comes with all of these gaskets and extra grommets, etc.
I'd pay to have the head pressure checked and resurfaced only at a machine shop. sometimes you open up a can of worms by having the entire head rebuilt with new valvestem seals, guides, etc. because again the top end is like-new, but the bottom end is still miled up and tired - it's a recipe for oil burning smoke from the bottom end.
If you are going for absolute bottom dollar repair then I'd say be prepared to buy an intake manifold gasket, head gasket, exhaust manifold gasket, coolant, valve cover gasket/set, or just buy what's called a "head set" that comes with all of these gaskets and extra grommets, etc.
I'd pay to have the head pressure checked and resurfaced only at a machine shop. sometimes you open up a can of worms by having the entire head rebuilt with new valvestem seals, guides, etc. because again the top end is like-new, but the bottom end is still miled up and tired - it's a recipe for oil burning smoke from the bottom end.
06-19-2008, 09:37 AM
#11
HT White Ops
Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (G2_Fella)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
so you're saying get the hg done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm NOT thread crapping here...
Bar's Leak FTW!
There are a few miracle chemicals that I use before getting radical - Bar's Leak is one of them!
K&W Trans-X Stop/Leak is another one, but that's a story for a different time.
Anyway, before I'd pull MY motor apart, I'd try Bar's Leak!
A LOT of OEMs use this stuff on their assembly lines, whether or not they admit it...
so you're saying get the hg done?</TD></TR></TABLE>
I'm NOT thread crapping here...
Bar's Leak FTW!
There are a few miracle chemicals that I use before getting radical - Bar's Leak is one of them!
K&W Trans-X Stop/Leak is another one, but that's a story for a different time.
Anyway, before I'd pull MY motor apart, I'd try Bar's Leak!
A LOT of OEMs use this stuff on their assembly lines, whether or not they admit it...
06-19-2008, 09:56 AM
#13
HT White Ops
Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I'm not a big fan of doing head gasket jobs on these engines...
...because again the top end is like-new, but the bottom end is still miled up and tired - it's a recipe for oil burning smoke from the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSRxNATE DNRperformance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18C5-EH2 = GURU. ill be pm'ing you from now on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18C5-EH2 is 100% right - and this doesn't apply to Hondas ONLY!
I used to work in a motorcycle shop and we had a lot of Harley customers...
If you'll pardon the pun, here's the never-ending cycle:
Guy comes in with a perfectly good running chopper - wants a head job - larger intakes, ported and polished, yada, yada, yada...
10K miles later he's back - the rods went! Why? Exactly what B18C5-EH2 said...
15K miles later it's smoking - needs new pistons.
Put the new pistons in and 10K miles later - the rods go again...
Like B18C5-EH2 said, if you're gonna do a HG, you might as well do the whole enchilada. Otherwise all you're doing is stressing out everything else!
And, once again, this applies to ALL motors NOT just Hondas...
...because again the top end is like-new, but the bottom end is still miled up and tired - it's a recipe for oil burning smoke from the bottom end.</TD></TR></TABLE>
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSRxNATE DNRperformance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">B18C5-EH2 = GURU. ill be pm'ing you from now on.</TD></TR></TABLE>
B18C5-EH2 is 100% right - and this doesn't apply to Hondas ONLY!
I used to work in a motorcycle shop and we had a lot of Harley customers...
If you'll pardon the pun, here's the never-ending cycle:
Guy comes in with a perfectly good running chopper - wants a head job - larger intakes, ported and polished, yada, yada, yada...
10K miles later he's back - the rods went! Why? Exactly what B18C5-EH2 said...
15K miles later it's smoking - needs new pistons.
Put the new pistons in and 10K miles later - the rods go again...
Like B18C5-EH2 said, if you're gonna do a HG, you might as well do the whole enchilada. Otherwise all you're doing is stressing out everything else!
And, once again, this applies to ALL motors NOT just Hondas...
06-19-2008, 10:20 AM
#14
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (BlackDeuceCoupe)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BlackDeuceCoupe »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
B18C5-EH2 is 100% right - and this doesn't apply to Hondas ONLY!
Like B18C5-EH2 said, if you're gonna do a HG, you might as well do the whole enchilada. Otherwise all you're doing is stressing out everything else!
And, once again, this applies to ALL motors NOT just Hondas...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is getting interesting guys... pls don't leave me hanging.
so are you trying to say rebuilt the whole engine?(top n bottom) i've never thought of getting to that point, not even the hg. but i will have to ask more questions and research more before it gets too late.
is this a good time for an engine upgrade?(vtec,b18,etc..) but that'll be a different subject.
B18C5-EH2 is 100% right - and this doesn't apply to Hondas ONLY!
Like B18C5-EH2 said, if you're gonna do a HG, you might as well do the whole enchilada. Otherwise all you're doing is stressing out everything else!
And, once again, this applies to ALL motors NOT just Hondas...
</TD></TR></TABLE>
this is getting interesting guys... pls don't leave me hanging.
so are you trying to say rebuilt the whole engine?(top n bottom) i've never thought of getting to that point, not even the hg. but i will have to ask more questions and research more before it gets too late.
is this a good time for an engine upgrade?(vtec,b18,etc..) but that'll be a different subject.
06-19-2008, 10:23 AM
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (G2_Fella)
^^ unless you are trying to keep your car as a gas efficient vehicle, then I would "do the whole enchillllllaadddaaa". Other than that...ide upgrade to a bigger motor.
06-19-2008, 10:28 AM
#16
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (DSRxNATE DNRperformance)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DSRxNATE DNRperformance »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">^^ unless you are trying to keep your car as a gas efficient vehicle, </TD></TR></TABLE>
you are right. i love this car and i want to keep it. and will fix it. the gas efficient thing is what comes to mind first. in a way i want to upgrade, but thinking about gas just makes me not want to upgrade it.
you are right. i love this car and i want to keep it. and will fix it. the gas efficient thing is what comes to mind first. in a way i want to upgrade, but thinking about gas just makes me not want to upgrade it.
06-19-2008, 10:29 AM
#17
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Re: coolant reservoir slowly filling up (G2_Fella)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
you are right. i love this car and i want to keep it. and will fix it. the gas efficient thing is what comes to mind first. in a way i want to upgrade, but thinking about gas just makes me not want to upgrade it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why I bought 2 hondas haha
you are right. i love this car and i want to keep it. and will fix it. the gas efficient thing is what comes to mind first. in a way i want to upgrade, but thinking about gas just makes me not want to upgrade it.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Thats why I bought 2 hondas
haha
06-19-2008, 10:41 AM
#18
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but on a serious note; i need to get more reliable source from people like you guys.
please give me a rough estimates on the stuff that was asked.
please give me a rough estimates on the stuff that was asked.
06-19-2008, 11:28 AM
#19
Former Moderator
Re: (G2_Fella)
Are you mechanically inclined at all?
The reason I ask is because JDM importers sell stock replacement SOHC engines for as cheap as $400.00-$600.00.
To pay a reputable shop for a good head gasket job, including machine shop labor to resurface, you'll pay more than $400.00-$600.00 probably.
If you cannot do the engine swap yourself then that kind of screws up my whole suggestion, but honestly an entire engine swap is hella easier than ntrying to do a head job or head gasket job yourself.
Also I don't know how the shop would warranty/guarantee a head gasket job, but if they will you'd better get it in writing and also ask them if they'll gurantee iot won't smoke after the job - I seriously doubt you'll get any shop to agree to such terms.
What year/make model is your car - if you already posted this forgiveme - i'm multi-tasking at work while browsing this topic.
The reason I ask is because JDM importers sell stock replacement SOHC engines for as cheap as $400.00-$600.00.
To pay a reputable shop for a good head gasket job, including machine shop labor to resurface, you'll pay more than $400.00-$600.00 probably.
If you cannot do the engine swap yourself then that kind of screws up my whole suggestion, but honestly an entire engine swap is hella easier than ntrying to do a head job or head gasket job yourself.
Also I don't know how the shop would warranty/guarantee a head gasket job, but if they will you'd better get it in writing and also ask them if they'll gurantee iot won't smoke after the job - I seriously doubt you'll get any shop to agree to such terms.
What year/make model is your car - if you already posted this forgiveme - i'm multi-tasking at work while browsing this topic.
06-19-2008, 06:03 PM
#20
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Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Are you mechanically inclined at all?
The reason I ask is because JDM importers sell stock replacement SOHC engines for as cheap as $400.00-$600.00.
To pay a reputable shop for a good head gasket job, including machine shop labor to resurface, you'll pay more than $400.00-$600.00 probably.
If you cannot do the engine swap yourself then that kind of screws up my whole suggestion, but honestly an entire engine swap is hella easier than ntrying to do a head job or head gasket job yourself.
Also I don't know how the shop would warranty/guarantee a head gasket job, but if they will you'd better get it in writing and also ask them if they'll gurantee iot won't smoke after the job - I seriously doubt you'll get any shop to agree to such terms.
What year/make model is your car - if you already posted this forgiveme - i'm multi-tasking at work while browsing this topic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i won't be able to do that myself. not really a hands on guy when it comes to major things like that.
what should the fair rates labor be for labor on the hg, and installing an engine?
my car is a 1992 cx.
The reason I ask is because JDM importers sell stock replacement SOHC engines for as cheap as $400.00-$600.00.
To pay a reputable shop for a good head gasket job, including machine shop labor to resurface, you'll pay more than $400.00-$600.00 probably.
If you cannot do the engine swap yourself then that kind of screws up my whole suggestion, but honestly an entire engine swap is hella easier than ntrying to do a head job or head gasket job yourself.
Also I don't know how the shop would warranty/guarantee a head gasket job, but if they will you'd better get it in writing and also ask them if they'll gurantee iot won't smoke after the job - I seriously doubt you'll get any shop to agree to such terms.
What year/make model is your car - if you already posted this forgiveme - i'm multi-tasking at work while browsing this topic.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i won't be able to do that myself. not really a hands on guy when it comes to major things like that.
what should the fair rates labor be for labor on the hg, and installing an engine?
my car is a 1992 cx.
06-19-2008, 09:14 PM
#21
HT White Ops
Re: (G2_Fella)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by G2_Fella »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">i won't be able to do that myself. not really a hands on guy when it comes to major things like that...</TD></TR></TABLE>
Heh!
Which brings 'us' full circle back to my Bar's Leak suggestion - so simple, your Mom could do it...
Heh!
Which brings 'us' full circle back to my Bar's Leak suggestion - so simple, your Mom could do it...
06-20-2008, 03:49 AM
#22
Honda-Tech Member
Re: (BlackDeuceCoupe)
Sorry to be "Mr. Obvious" here but have you verified that you don't have a hole in the hose for your overflow? If there is a hole in it, if it's not in the bottle at all, etc, coolant would be able to fill the bottle up but it would not be able to get back to the radiator when vacuum is produced to suck it back in. I'd pull off your overflow hose at the radiator. Plug one and and apply some pressure to the other end (you can just blow in it if you want) If you hear a leak, that's why you are filling the bottle.
Just want to make sure the simple things are checked before you tear into your engine. Nothing worse than doing a somewhat big job when you could just spend a couple bucks on some new hose....
Just want to make sure the simple things are checked before you tear into your engine. Nothing worse than doing a somewhat big job when you could just spend a couple bucks on some new hose....
06-20-2008, 05:42 AM
#23
i wouldnt be suprised if this is normal operation...is your car overheating while driving? alot of time when you get done running your car and turn if off the coolant will be low just due to the fact that there is still coolant flowing through the engine...sometimes it just takes time for the coolant to leave the block and return to the res tank....if your not having drivability issues or burning coolant, id hold off on any major repairs
06-20-2008, 09:46 AM
#24
Former Moderator
Re: (marcs1337)
Here is a simple, cheap suggestion:
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a couple of different symptons a blown head gasket will exhibit, and filling the overflow bottle up is definately one of them.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I initially said buy the funnel, test the cooling system, THEN freak out if you need to.
It's a cheap tool that you can use every time you do any sort of coolant system work to the car, and it bleeds trapped air our of the system each time you use it. It pays for itself the first time you use it, seriously.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">There's a couple of different symptons a blown head gasket will exhibit, and filling the overflow bottle up is definately one of them.
It's not uncommon in hot climates to see the level in that bottle fluctuate, but if it fills up some then other times it should be below the max line too.
If it keeps filling itself up after you dump out the excess then I'd say chances are you've got a blown head gasket.
One final test could confrim it, and quite possibly fix another issue if it's not a head gasket.
Tool companies sell funnels that screw into your radiator like a radiator cap. You screw it on, pour coolant/water into it about halfway so that your cooling system is full, and there is some coolant visible in the funnel.
Crank the car and allow the cooling fans to cycle a few times. Normal vehicle will purge bubbles up through the funnel until the fans cycle a few times. the bubbles are normal, and this is a great way to bleed out all trapped air in the system. Make sure vehicle is on level ground, or even have front raised slightly.
IF the fans cycle a few times and you still have bubbles then you've got a blown head gasket. This is a 100% positive way to diagnose, and that would explain the overflow.
If during this diagnosis the fans do not cycle, or your lower radiator hose doesn't get hot, then you've got other issues causing the pressures to build up enough to fill the overflow bottle.
Good luck.</TD></TR></TABLE>
Like I initially said buy the funnel, test the cooling system, THEN freak out if you need to.
It's a cheap tool that you can use every time you do any sort of coolant system work to the car, and it bleeds trapped air our of the system each time you use it. It pays for itself the first time you use it, seriously.
06-20-2008, 11:10 AM
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Re: (B18C5-EH2)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a simple, cheap suggestion:
Like I initially said buy the funnel, test the cooling system, THEN freak out if you need to.
It's a cheap tool that you can use every time you do any sort of coolant system work to the car, and it bleeds trapped air our of the system each time you use it. It pays for itself the first time you use it, seriously.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you think any autopart stores carries them? if not, i will look into harbor freight.
could you show me a picture of it?
not at all, i don't mind spending the lil extra $ to do the right thing. after calling many shops around, i happened to stumble through this one shop 12 miles radius from my place. he said he would "test" it for free. i don't know what kind of test he is talking about. and i asked him again if it's free, he said "yes." he said he just need 20 mins of my time. other shops try to charge me between $50-$100 just to test it. i will come back and update this as soon as i get back home.
one more thing:
some shops ask if i wanted to "adjust the valve." what does that mean? is it a have to? will it improve anything? that thing cost more than a $100.
Like I initially said buy the funnel, test the cooling system, THEN freak out if you need to.
It's a cheap tool that you can use every time you do any sort of coolant system work to the car, and it bleeds trapped air our of the system each time you use it. It pays for itself the first time you use it, seriously.</TD></TR></TABLE>
you think any autopart stores carries them? if not, i will look into harbor freight.
could you show me a picture of it?
not at all, i don't mind spending the lil extra $ to do the right thing. after calling many shops around, i happened to stumble through this one shop 12 miles radius from my place. he said he would "test" it for free. i don't know what kind of test he is talking about. and i asked him again if it's free, he said "yes." he said he just need 20 mins of my time. other shops try to charge me between $50-$100 just to test it. i will come back and update this as soon as i get back home.
one more thing:
some shops ask if i wanted to "adjust the valve." what does that mean? is it a have to? will it improve anything? that thing cost more than a $100.