mrbarwrobert

First i want to apologize because I have looked through tons and tons of posts on here, but I have not been able to find a post exactly addressing my problem. I have tried bits and pieces of different posts with no luck.

I have a 92 Honda Civic (manual) that I just bought as a commuter car. When I first bought it (2 weeks ago) I noticed it would clunk out when I let off the gas. I thought maybe I should just turn up the idle, so I did which seemed to help, but then when it got over about 80 degrees outside the problem came back. After messing with it a little bit, I noticed that when it stalled if I got out and opened the gas tank it let out a huge whoosh noise and the car would crank right back up. (sometimes it would give me a problem starting back up).

I read on here about the master relay, and took all the necessary steps to make sure the relay was working correctly - even resoldered it to make sure there was not a hairline crack that I couldnt see that was the culprit.

I then did a tuenup - changed the sparkplugs, new rotor, new cap, new fuel filter, new air filter.

However, this did not solve the problem so I gave up and took it into the shop. They cleaned the fuel lines and said there was a lot of built up carbon so they cleaned the injectors, etc. This did help with the idling problem, but did not fix the problem. I then had them replace the timing belt also as it was there anyway.

They mentioned the clutch was going out, and the next day when I picked it up the clutch "magically" went out which costed another 900 bucks as they said the axles were bad too.

So now I am back stuck with a car that when I turn the AC on and it is hot outside the compressor (i think) is short cycling. It turns on and off within about 3-5 seconds over and over and over. It is r12 as it has not been converted to 134a. It does however have a conversion on the high side so I plugged a can of 134a on it just to look at the reading (did not put any in). It is right in the middle of where it should be which makes me think it is not an over or under charged problem.

Basically, I am out of ideas and definitely need your help. So far this has been a rough start to owning my first honda, however I am committed to get this thing running right. Thanks for any help you can offer!!

mrbarwrobert

Anyone?

Former User

Sounds like the A/C system is (1) overcharged with R12, (2) the condenser fan is not running, (3) or the condenser is bad. Get a R12 manifold gauge set and measure the high side and low side pressures with the A/C on Max and the engine running/idling at 1500 RPM. Post those pressures.

paintedrock

is this the tech section where you need to make a post. new to site but i think its very helpful and what to be a member

paintedrock

Hey i guess it was I got a post by my name

paintedrock

try tighten your alternator belt

paintedrock

it might be a little loose and your not getting enough juice

mrbarwrobert

RonJ@HT: I do not have a tachometer in my cluster. How would you recommend getting it at 1500 on the dot without a tach? Also, I know that autozone has a set of guages to rent but I am not sure the type - is there a difference for the R12 guages I should look for when I stop by to rent?

paintedrock: I just got the belt changed by a shop - would they not have tightened it properly? I had this problem before and after they replaced the belt fyi.

Former User

You specifically need a R12 manifold gauge set because it's different than the R34a manifold gauge set.

You can connect an external tach to the tach connector under the hood to measure engine rpm.

mrbarwrobert

Ok, I will swing by Autozone and see if they have an R12 to rent (preferrably), but if not maybe they will have one to purchase. I know they have external tachs for around 30-40 bucks at Autozone, I will pick one up. Any guidance on where exactly the tach connector would be? Is there a specific tachometer I need to work under the hood or are they generic?

Thanks for your help!!

Former User

The tach connector has one blue wire and is located on the driver's side corner of the engine bay nearest the windshield.

Does the condenser fan run when the A/C is turned on?

mrbarwrobert

RonJ@HT: Not sure about the condenser fan - I will check that as soon as I get home.

mrbarwrobert

So there are two fans, the one on the passenger side I believe is the condenser fan, right? It is not spinning at all - the one on the driver side is spinning. I am letting the engine run to see if it kicks on, but so far nothing.

mrbarwrobert

Well it just came on for about 10 seconds and went off again.

mrbarwrobert

So now it is cycling every 30-45 seconds it comes on for 10 seconds or so...is that normal?

mrbarwrobert

I am noticing some green stuff pooling at the top of my radiator too - im sure that cant be good.

Former User

The radiator and its fan are on the passenger side. It has a cap on the top. If you see coolant pooling at the top, the radiator has a leak at the seam and needs to be replaced.

The condenser and its fan are on the driver side. It lacks a cap. If the condenser fan runs when you turn on the A/C, then it's fine.

mrbarwrobert

Condenser fan runs the whole time. The radiator has been replaced - just have to wait until tomorrow to buy some new hoses...had to cut them off as 22 year old rubbers are no good. (probably save me some leaks in the future).

So now I cant start the car until the radiator gets put back in. I bought a tachometer from autozone but I cannot hook that up until I can turn on the engine. I did find the blue wire and found it has a harness attached to it. I havent opened the tach up yet, but is there just a blue wire to attach to it, or is there a harness? Thanks for your help.

Oh and I was unsuccessful at getting r12 hoses. Is there a workaround for that, or do I need to pick some up off ebay? Kinda sucks as i will only use them to check one time (i hope)

mrbarwrobert

Ok I hooked up the tach and when I turn on the car it idles right about 500-550rpm's. When I flip the A/C on it drops to about 300 and then comes back up to idle at about 400rpm's. I noticed the compressor clutch is the thing that is kicking on when the car bogs down.

On the bright side, radiator appears to be working great!

**Note: I havent gotten the A/C guages yet as I wanted to make sure the tach worked first.

mrbarwrobert

So according to http://ww2.justanswe...civic_92-95.pdf my car should be idling at 810 +- 50. It appears that you need to raise the idle speed a certain way (not just twist the nuts on the throttle) Can you guys confirm?

Former User

From the 92-95 Civic service manual:

mrbarwrobert

RonJ@HT sorry that is what I was trying to post with that link. So you recommend changing the idle speed by adjusting the idle adjusting screw vs. the 2 nuts on the throttle? I just want to confirm before making changes.

Also, I noticed your signature has cleaning out the IACV and FITV links in it - should I clean those before making changes? I know the shop said the fuel injectors and lines were bad gummed up with carbon. (the shop made those changes so I never saw for certain how bad the carbon buildup was).

Former User

Before you clean the IACV and FITV:

Follow the instructions (steps 1-7) for your engine and transmission. Then check the idle speed under no load and load conditions, as per the instructions. What are those two idle speeds?

Former User

The proper way to adjust the idle is per the instructions in the diagram. What two nuts are you talking about?

mrbarwrobert

The little circular piece in the engine that when you press the throttle it twists and pulls the chord attached to it? It has a metal piece in the middle with 2 nuts on either side and you can adjust those to raise/lower the idle speed. Maybe that is not the throttle?