htk

Have a 99 Civic EX with B16. I might want to go B18b or B20 due to my B16 kept throwing CEL on and off for Misfiring & o2 sensor and it's getting annoying. I've replace many tune up parts and it was only good for awhile. Was thinking I should go LSV but I can't do the labor and I check with shops it's around $2k so that's not my route. Rebuild? Never done it before so I'm not gonna attempt it and mess up a decent B16. So it's better for me to sell this B16 and go with a B18B or B20. I just wanted something to drive around town so I figure these 2 options are perfect for my daily use. I don't plan to go any higher than basic bolt-on mods so I should be ok with a B20. Could use those torque for city driving. Might pair that with a si or gsr tranny and I should be good.

Now to my main Q's. If I'm swapping to a B18b or B20...
-What should I keep from the B16 set up?
-What should I sell with the B16?
-I still have A/C & P/S, those should work with the B18b or B20 right?

Any advice/suggestions?
Be nice to go B18c or better but not willing to spend that kind of money for a daily driver.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

If it's messed up bad enough that you're considering replacing it, I would hardly call it a "decent" motor. Also, a new motor won't replace your O2 sensor. Have you considered doing basic diagnostics, instead of throwing parts at it, then throwing it out the window? You're trying to kill a small anthill with a flamethrower at this point.

tony_2018

Throwing parts around seems to be the norm for people who don't want to admit they don't know how to diagnose

Please ask on what needs to be done, we don't shoot you in the foot unless you're being to lazy too read the FAQ section.

blackeg

i went from b16 to b20z/s4c gsr 5th setup. very happy here. i do miss hitting that vtec but i know im going faster. overall it wont be fast but more tolerable to get around town and merge into traffic.


these guys are right though, you need to do some diagnosis before you go ripping out motors

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

Yea, when my O2 sensor took a ****, i tossed in B20 at the cost of 2 grand.

That O2 sensor was just too expensive to replace. Especially when the CEL light wouldnt shut off. I figured its time for a new engine.

tony_2018

If the scan gauge hasn't told you by now, than just swap an engine troll.

htk

On the other hand though, no one answer my Q's. If I wanted to swap to a B20 what can I keep from this b16 setup onto the B20. Keep in mind I still want the A/C & P/S. This will be my fist swap that's why I'm asking.

delsolintegra

You have to have a plan.
If you're thinking about building a B20 VTEC you would keep the B16 head.
But you would also have to build the bottom end for higher revs to enjoy the benefits of the VTEC. Plus the additional cost of wiring the VTEC, oil lines and tuning. Research the B20 VTEC option.
If you're thinking about going small turbo (to keep A/C and maybe P/S), it's probably a lot cheaper keeping stock engine internals (upgrade head studs), still need quality turbo components and tuning. Wouldn't need the VTEC head either.
Probably a stock B20 would be fine, maybe keep the B16 tranny.
It's all about what you want and how much money you want to spend and how RIGHT you want to build it.

tony_2018

Because there are plenty of guides out there that tell you what you need to retain what you want.....

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Especially since OP already has a B series in his car.

All you need to do is remove the old motor, and put the new one in. Simple as that. You can retain AC by using your current AC bracket and compressor, and bolting them onto the new motor. Same with PS. That's all there is to it. If you have a B16, you already have VTEC, so you don't need to run new wires for that. It's literally as simple as drop it in, bolt your accessories back onto the new motor, install the proper ECU (or chip) for the new motor, and go. Done.

htk

Thank you! That's what I'm looking for. I just need to make sure B16 & B18/b20 accessories are interchangeable. What about the engine hardness. Will my current one work? Current Axle?

tony_2018

Dude............seriously........google. People have made informative guides to help newcomers such as yourself. Don't waste there effort, meet them halfway by searching and reading up on there guide.

htk

I understand what you're saying but wouldn't be a lot simpler if someone just answer "you can use your current engine harness" or "You will need an LS harness." Not everyone going b18/b20 already have a B16. I'm not being lazy and not doing research. Been doing that for last few weeks. Why can't I ask a simple Q? Isn't this what online forums are for? Now I would understand if I ask stupid stuff like "what do I need for b18 swap"(if my civic is stock) than a lot will just tell me to google/research but a Q about harness and you tell me to do my research than there' shouldn't be online forums. Just saying.

tony_2018

Your civic is no longer stock, it has a b16 in there. If it were an issue that you couldn't figure out on your own, and this is something you can figure out on your own, than yes the tech forum is for that.

htk

Is there any difference on the ENGINE ITSELF if I pull the B18b from an Automatic or Manual transmission integra? Saw a deal on a running low mileage integra LS but it's an Automatic. Can I drop the auto tranny and bolt it to my b16 manual tranny? I mean, engine is an engine right?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Nothing different. Just need to swap the manual flywheel onto the automatic engine.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

and an auto ecu

johnjohn316

totally kidding on the opt. 3 buy a skyline.

go a budget build and best bang for the buck is the b20/vtec. don't worry about the rod bolts they wont break and you'll be able to take it to 8200 rpms. just get a good tune

coffeepheen

H2B

johnjohn316

with the miles and what is left of the life of the b16, I don't think it's really worth the trouble to find out what is wrong. either way you're opting for either a swap or rebuild anyways. I had the same issue with my em1, I didn't even bother at 200k+ miles. I ran a compression test, yes. but it's time for a swap is what it is telling you.

if it is worth it to you to find out what is really wrong, by all means run a diagnostics test. I am pretty certain it's "something" internal and will require taking the motor apart. if you get that far, you mind as well replace all gaskets, belts, water pump, get new rings, hone, etc. imo opinion the b16 isn't worth rebuilding.

best bang for the buck is the b20vtec. you can reuse a lot of parts. otherwise I really like the H2B setup.

Former User

This swap question seems to be answered.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

I would get the rod bolts if your going to rev that high.