changing axles......broken crv boot
#1
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changing axles......broken crv boot
My two front Crv boots are gone. Front right is torn open, and left is cracking. I was told that replacing the boot is messy and hard. And it would be easier to replace the axle. What do you suggest, and how would i do this. If I were to change the axles, are there any risks, or breaking the tranny seal?
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: changing axles......broken crv boot (civcexcoupeblack)
Changing the axles.....first off, drain the tranny fluid.
Take axles out (hardest part will be breaking axles nut on end loose).
Bring them to auto parts store (napa, bennet) and you'll get money back for them (I believe) and buy new axles.
Reverse steps, fill tranny up with new fluid, you're done.
HTH
Take axles out (hardest part will be breaking axles nut on end loose).
Bring them to auto parts store (napa, bennet) and you'll get money back for them (I believe) and buy new axles.
Reverse steps, fill tranny up with new fluid, you're done.
HTH
#3
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Re: changing axles......broken crv boot (94HybridEX)
Changing your cv boots is a tricky little task but why would you want to get new axles that could cost you up to 160 bucks for the pair when you could get new boots for 30 bucks? If you really have no clue what your doing I suggest that you go to a shop and have them fixed or if you have a little mechanical know how you can fix them yourself. I replaced my cv boots last weekend and it only took me about an hour to do both of them.
If you would really like detailed instructions on how to do this let me know or else just bring it to a mechanic. Dont waste your money on new axles if you dont have to.
If you would really like detailed instructions on how to do this let me know or else just bring it to a mechanic. Dont waste your money on new axles if you dont have to.
#4
Former Moderator
Re: changing axles......broken crv boot (civcexcoupeblack)
Here's how to pull the axles:
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.
1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing
**CAUTION**
If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.
Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!
Hope that helps!
Tools you'll need if doing a Civic or Integra:
19mm for the wheel
32mm big-*** socket and BIG rachet for it - to break off and tighten back up the axle nut
17mm wrench
17mm wrench again or rachet
Dykes
Hammer
Prybar
TRY to get the entire front of the vehicle off the ground so you can turn the wheels to make things easier.
1. Take the wheel off with the 19mm
2. Take the 32mm nut off the end of the axle
3. Take the dykes and pull the cotter pin out of the bottom 17mm castle nut on the lower balljoint
4. Take the 17mm and remove the castlenut from the lower balljoint
5. Take your big-*** hammer and whack right ON the lower control arm where the balljoint sits - this method for buting the balljoint out will not tear the balljoint boot like the "balljoint wedge" will
6. Take both 17mm and remove the thru-bolt that runs through the lower fork of the front stut - this will allow the axle to slide out when ready by pulling the strut fork to the side of the lower control arm
7. Pull the brake rotor out of the way - axle is ready to come out
8. Take the prybar and pry the axle by prying between the inner joint and the tranny housing
**CAUTION**
If it's a manual tranny you NEED to drain it if you're doing the PASSENGER side on a car with equal-length driveshafts - if it's a B-series this applies. Unequal length shafts will require yopu to ALWAYS drain the tranny.
Reassamble it how you disassembled it. Only then you need to stake the axle nut down by putting a dent in it and do'nt forget to replace the cotter pin in the lower balljoint castlenut!
Hope that helps!
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