JaysonDC2

Like the title says it only starts when the engine is cool down but after its warmed up it dies. just did spark plugs, wires, and rotor then the car ran for alil bit then died so i checked for spark, nothing! then i changed the ignition coil and got it running for almost the whole day then it wouldnt start again but if i let it sits for awhile till the engine is cool down it starts right up but after its warmed up.. it dies. Please, help me out guys!!! btw its a 2000 civic EX has like 190k miles.

JaysonDC2

bump!!!

azandford

mine actually is doing the same thing.... turned out to be a bad ignition control module just replaced the whole dizzy with an oem one instead of a cheap ebay one

car works just fine until iot reaches operating temperature and then dies... as soon as it cools down it fires right back up took me an hour and a half to get home the other day usually takes 20 minutes

are you throwing an ignition output code?

JaysonDC2

damnn so u saying its the whole dizzy?? i was looking at the ebay ones cus their cheaper than the ones from autoparts. no codes throwing at the moment cus i unhook the battery when i replaced the ignition coil.

vtechjunkie

iTrader: (2)

those are the symptoms of a bad ECM, but it could be a number of things. You say that there are no codes? Kind of hard tell you it "could be" without any codes. I like to try the cheap things first, but it sound like you have to change the dizzy. Try to find a friend that has the same motor, and use theirs.

JaysonDC2

bad ECM?? i went to the shop they said the same thing, distributor. and yea i had one code before it was the o2 sensor but when i unhook the battery it went away so now no codes throwing. so where u guys buy the distributor for a good price??

azandford

you dont need to change the whole dizzy but i would change it to diagnose he problem... then you can just replace the control module inside the dizzy if the other dizzy fixed the issue for you at autozone there 90 bucks on ebay there 40 but i would stay away from ebay unless you plan on changing it again soon

i bought my dizzy off of ebay for 125 only lasted a year but i picked up an good oem used dizzy from the ht marketplace for 70 shipped oem is the way to go

i have seen used ones on ebay for 120ish if you get it form autozone/napa there like 300 from rywire there 250

JDM_SOHC

x2 coil

Former User

Have the ICM inside the distributor tested.

azandford

would it be possible to test if its only having the problem when its heated up?

JaysonDC2

x2^ on that!
idk where to get the oem dizzy and i know its not gon be cheap. but i know this local guy selling his stock dizzy off a 97 civic for 50bux u think its worth it???

azandford

I would stuck that dizzy on and are if it helps your issue. If it does and in decent condition then 50 bucks is a good deal.

I doubt autozone would be able to recreate the heat conditions to test it

b18cKoupe

could be something with fuel as well, if the car starts well cold(alot of extra fuel is used on cold starts) but wont start once warmed up it could be that your getting to much fuel. Injector stuck open or fuel pressure too high. Just throwing it out there. Also test the ect sensor, if thats showing full cold to the ecu after the engine is really warm you may be dumping a ton of fuel into a warmed up engine which could cause your problem. It wont necessarilly throw a code either on a obd1 ecu. Is the car entering closed loop once its warmed up?

Former User

It's worth testing the ICM regardless. Just remove it and take it to an auto parts store for testing.

danielblushtein

yep we have a nissan quest ( sorry not a honda) but it had the same problem. Got a new Distributor and it runs like new now. it was the Ignition control module but they dont sell them separate for nissan


BTW google icm and see the symptoms and it will tell you.

hondanube2010

i dont understand how this would be an ignition problem regardless of the temp... im leaning towards too much fuel or an ecu but too much fuel would lead to an engine running too rich code witch in some casses it would cause the engine to run lean as far as GM ford and mopar obd1 goes could be the o2 being that there was a pending code on it

JaysonDC2

how to check the fuel??? and btw its a obd2 ecu. and i forgot to mention that the gas needle on the cluster doesnt work it always stays full. jjst saying maybe it has something to do with it. and no theres fuel in there cus i just dumped like 3gallons in there.

Jockone

It sounds like the ICM in the dizzy is getting too hot and breaking down,if you can get the dizzy you mentioned for $50 then try it.
Parts store can test your ICMjust get them to run the test several times to see if it gets hot or not.

JaysonDC2

from where i live autoparts around here they dont do testing for these parts, they only do like battery, alternator and starter. so should i just replace the ICM or the whole dizzy? what u guys suggestion?? and ive mentioned above ive replaced the coil, new cap and rotor.

Former User

Call your local auto parts stores to find ones that will do ICM testing.

b18cKoupe

heres how to check the coil and ICM

On models with single-coil ignition systems, if the
engine cranks but there’s no spark at the plugs, check the
ignition coil and the ICM (ignition control module
[igniter]) by using this procedure:
NOTE: Wire colors for wires referenced here can vary
between models, so use the appropriate ETM to ID them.
1. Turn the ignition switch ON (II), and watch the MIL
(malfunction indicator lamp).
• If the MIL doesn’t come on, or it comes on and
stays on, refer to MIL Basics on this page.
• If the MIL comes on for two seconds and then goes
off, go to step 2.
2. Check for battery voltage at the positive wire going
to the coil, and at the positive wire going to the ICM.
• If you have battery voltage, go to step 3.
• If you don’t have battery voltage, check for an
open between the ignition switch, the ICM, and the
coil.
3. Connect a voltmeter between the coil negative terminal
and ground, and record the cranking voltage two ways:
first with the wire between the coil and ICM connected,
then with it disconnected.
• If you get about 8 V with the wire connected and
10 V with it disconnected, install a new coil, and
retest.
• If you get about 10 V with the wire connected and
disconnected, install a new ICM, and retest

JaysonDC2

i checked a couple autoparts stores they dont do ICM or COIL testing.
well, this morning i went to start the car i heard a really loud ticking noise from the dizzy. why its making that noise?? does it mean my dizzy is really done??

EJeff8

It means the ICM is toast dude. Basically confirming all 20+ comments in this thread. Just replace the ICM or the Diz, it's that simple.

JaysonDC2

well, not all 20+ comments say the ICM or the dizzy, some members say it could be something with fuel as well. but anways ill just replace the dizzy and see what will happen!

danielblushtein

^^^!!!