03-31-2015, 04:32 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Specifications and General Overview
- How to Install a Kill Switch
Step by step instructions for do-it-yourself repairs
Browse all: Specifications and General Overview
car security (kill switch)
08-21-2007, 05:48 PM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
DIY car security (kill switch)
ok i read some post lately about stollen cars, first of i feel sorry for people who got robbed, and for those who haven't yet here is a little DIY that is worth doing. Besides if you are putting big bucks in a car why not spend extra 10$ for a kill swith.
*Disclaimer*: I am not responsible for any damage incurred to vehicle or individual. This worked flawlessly for me, but that doesn't mean something couldn't happen to you.
FUEL PUMP CUTOFF SWITCH
For less than $10, you can make your civic (other cars also just diff, color of wires) impossible to drive off by even the most determined car thief. The idea is to install a switch in the power circuit to the fuel pump. The switch is hidden in a really secret spot. With the switch off and fuel pump dead, the engine quickly dies. Car cranks like usual, but doesn't run for more than 5 seconds. The only way to steal your car now is to tow it or put it on a trailer. You need the following stuff for the mod:
1. Wire cutters and striper
2. 10 ft. of 12 gauge wire or one size smaller(length depends on where you put the switch)
3. Exacto knife or razor blade
4. Shrink tube insulation or electricians tape (shrink wrap/tubes better - from Radio Shack)
5. Soldering gun and solder
6. A bunch of male/female connectors
7. A switch (two pole). I got a rocker switch from Radio Shack that was rated for automotive use 25A. (dont buy cheap ones and rated low)
Step #1. Here's the creative part. Find a location for hiding the switch. I'd tell you where I put mine, but then I'd have to kill ya. However, here are some suggestions:
· In the ashtray/cigarette lighter area (be sneaky)
· Inside the console compartment (too obvious)
· Inside one of the lockable storage bins (hmmmmm)
· Inside the trunk of the car (pain to get to, but max hidden)
· Any place that's a blind spot. I don't recommend the glove box or under the dash. Too obvious. Remember, the car jacker has probably already disabled your alarm, ignition kill, and starter kill system. He'll deduce that you have a poorly maintained car, or you have another kill switch somewhere.
Step #2. Remove the back seat (or lift it so its not in your way). Then locate the top of the fuel pump. A round dohicky with a bundle of wires going to it.
Step #3. Carefully open up the cover of the wire bundle leading to the top of the fuel pump. The bundle of wires split at some point with 3 wires going to the fuel sending unit and low fuel connector, and two wires going to the connector and pump. Mine had electricians tape around it. Locate the yellow/green wire (that's yellow wire with green stripe). This is the power wire (from ignition circuit) that fires up the fuel pump. [If still confused on the what is what, wires to ignore are yellow/white, black/yellow, black/white, & green/red. They are for sending unit to fuel gauge and low fuel light.] I used the yellow/green wire myself. Cut the wire. Strip some of the insulation off of both ends (just enough to connect with male and female connectors).
Step #4. Locate where you want to install the switch. Figure out how you're going to affix or attach the switch. If access to connecting the wires is limited, wait until the last minute to glue, screw, or bolt the switch down. I super glued mine. Improvise.
Step #5. Connect a new section of wire to the wire coming out of the fuel pump. You do have the option to hard wire the circuit . However, I soldered a female connector to the wire coming out of the pump and a male connector on the new wire (more about this later). Use a hair dryer to shrink insulation over the connection. Your option is to use electrician tape.
Step #6. Route that wire to your switch. Solder or use a female plug connector to attach to one pole of the switch.
Step #7. Now, take another piece of wire and connect to the other pole of the switch (female connector or solder). Route that wire back to the fuel pump area.
Step #8. Connect that wire coming from the switch to the remaining or only loose end fuel pump wire (the one that goes to the circuit and finally to the power). Use a female connector on the wire from the switch and a male connector on the remaining wire. Shrink tube insulate that puppy. The circuit is now complete. The reason I have a male connector on the wire coming from the power circuit and a female connector on the wire from the fuel pump is to have an emergency way to hook up the circuit if the switch fails. Just a failsafe backup.
To keep all the wires from chafing or disconnecting, I used small zip ties to bundle the wires to other wires or spots. Use some duck tape and tape it down. Whatever.
Step #9. Test the switch. Start the car. If it starts, the switch is in the "on" position. Then, switch the switch to the opposite setting. The car should stall out. Taaaadaaaa, fuel pump is switched off. If the car doesn't start in either setting, you have bad connection someplace. Recheck the circuit. You only have four places that it could be screwed up. The only other problem could be the cheap *** switch.
Step #10. If the switch works, finish the install of the switch. Hide it good. Reassemble all the panels. You're in biddness.
The only thing you have to be aware of is that it is a given you will forget about the switch. You'll jump in the car, turn the keys, and it won't start. That's when you slap yourself silly because you forgot (for the 10th time) that you didn't turn on the fuel pump switch. DAMNIT!!! Stupid, stupid, stupid. However, that's the idea. You want the car jacker to think that you're a rotten car owner that poorly maintains his car. Won't start. A more experienced car thief will look for a mechanical fuel cutoff switch under the hood or some other device under the dash or glove box. If the switch is hidden and he doesn't want to spend a lot of time looking, the thief will split to find an easier target. This security mod is a cheap, extra layer of protection. No guarantees.
The yellow/green wire goes all the way to the fuse box under the side panels, so spending more time and using your imagination you can splice the wire anywhere between the fuse box and the fuel pump.
Now, I could tell you how I've installed a second switch in that same circuit. The first switch is easy to find (car thief thinks "Ah HA!"), but I always leave that one in the ON position. The second switch is buried in the bowels of the car. That's the real one. I'm not going to tell you where that one is located.
Good luck.
*Disclaimer*: I am not responsible for any damage incurred to vehicle or individual. This worked flawlessly for me, but that doesn't mean something couldn't happen to you.
FUEL PUMP CUTOFF SWITCH
For less than $10, you can make your civic (other cars also just diff, color of wires) impossible to drive off by even the most determined car thief. The idea is to install a switch in the power circuit to the fuel pump. The switch is hidden in a really secret spot. With the switch off and fuel pump dead, the engine quickly dies. Car cranks like usual, but doesn't run for more than 5 seconds. The only way to steal your car now is to tow it or put it on a trailer. You need the following stuff for the mod:
1. Wire cutters and striper
2. 10 ft. of 12 gauge wire or one size smaller(length depends on where you put the switch)
3. Exacto knife or razor blade
4. Shrink tube insulation or electricians tape (shrink wrap/tubes better - from Radio Shack)
5. Soldering gun and solder
6. A bunch of male/female connectors
7. A switch (two pole). I got a rocker switch from Radio Shack that was rated for automotive use 25A. (dont buy cheap ones and rated low)
Step #1. Here's the creative part. Find a location for hiding the switch. I'd tell you where I put mine, but then I'd have to kill ya. However, here are some suggestions:
· In the ashtray/cigarette lighter area (be sneaky)
· Inside the console compartment (too obvious)
· Inside one of the lockable storage bins (hmmmmm)
· Inside the trunk of the car (pain to get to, but max hidden)
· Any place that's a blind spot. I don't recommend the glove box or under the dash. Too obvious. Remember, the car jacker has probably already disabled your alarm, ignition kill, and starter kill system. He'll deduce that you have a poorly maintained car, or you have another kill switch somewhere.
Step #2. Remove the back seat (or lift it so its not in your way). Then locate the top of the fuel pump. A round dohicky with a bundle of wires going to it.
Step #3. Carefully open up the cover of the wire bundle leading to the top of the fuel pump. The bundle of wires split at some point with 3 wires going to the fuel sending unit and low fuel connector, and two wires going to the connector and pump. Mine had electricians tape around it. Locate the yellow/green wire (that's yellow wire with green stripe). This is the power wire (from ignition circuit) that fires up the fuel pump. [If still confused on the what is what, wires to ignore are yellow/white, black/yellow, black/white, & green/red. They are for sending unit to fuel gauge and low fuel light.] I used the yellow/green wire myself. Cut the wire. Strip some of the insulation off of both ends (just enough to connect with male and female connectors).
Step #4. Locate where you want to install the switch. Figure out how you're going to affix or attach the switch. If access to connecting the wires is limited, wait until the last minute to glue, screw, or bolt the switch down. I super glued mine. Improvise.
Step #5. Connect a new section of wire to the wire coming out of the fuel pump. You do have the option to hard wire the circuit . However, I soldered a female connector to the wire coming out of the pump and a male connector on the new wire (more about this later). Use a hair dryer to shrink insulation over the connection. Your option is to use electrician tape.
Step #6. Route that wire to your switch. Solder or use a female plug connector to attach to one pole of the switch.
Step #7. Now, take another piece of wire and connect to the other pole of the switch (female connector or solder). Route that wire back to the fuel pump area.
Step #8. Connect that wire coming from the switch to the remaining or only loose end fuel pump wire (the one that goes to the circuit and finally to the power). Use a female connector on the wire from the switch and a male connector on the remaining wire. Shrink tube insulate that puppy. The circuit is now complete. The reason I have a male connector on the wire coming from the power circuit and a female connector on the wire from the fuel pump is to have an emergency way to hook up the circuit if the switch fails. Just a failsafe backup.
To keep all the wires from chafing or disconnecting, I used small zip ties to bundle the wires to other wires or spots. Use some duck tape and tape it down. Whatever.
Step #9. Test the switch. Start the car. If it starts, the switch is in the "on" position. Then, switch the switch to the opposite setting. The car should stall out. Taaaadaaaa, fuel pump is switched off. If the car doesn't start in either setting, you have bad connection someplace. Recheck the circuit. You only have four places that it could be screwed up. The only other problem could be the cheap *** switch.
Step #10. If the switch works, finish the install of the switch. Hide it good. Reassemble all the panels. You're in biddness.
The only thing you have to be aware of is that it is a given you will forget about the switch. You'll jump in the car, turn the keys, and it won't start. That's when you slap yourself silly because you forgot (for the 10th time) that you didn't turn on the fuel pump switch. DAMNIT!!! Stupid, stupid, stupid. However, that's the idea. You want the car jacker to think that you're a rotten car owner that poorly maintains his car. Won't start. A more experienced car thief will look for a mechanical fuel cutoff switch under the hood or some other device under the dash or glove box. If the switch is hidden and he doesn't want to spend a lot of time looking, the thief will split to find an easier target. This security mod is a cheap, extra layer of protection. No guarantees.
The yellow/green wire goes all the way to the fuse box under the side panels, so spending more time and using your imagination you can splice the wire anywhere between the fuse box and the fuel pump.
Now, I could tell you how I've installed a second switch in that same circuit. The first switch is easy to find (car thief thinks "Ah HA!"), but I always leave that one in the ON position. The second switch is buried in the bowels of the car. That's the real one. I'm not going to tell you where that one is located.
Good luck.
The following users liked this post:
08-21-2007, 06:03 PM
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: DIY car security (3lo)
Good info, I'll add it to the FAQ.
Though I can tell you right now, as soon as it's turning over strong but not starting, a thief will start looking for a kill switch - they're not uncommon. The most common place for a kill switch is off of the fuel pump wires. So it's no secret. Though it's a good thing to do (at least in my opinion) anyways.
Though I can tell you right now, as soon as it's turning over strong but not starting, a thief will start looking for a kill switch - they're not uncommon. The most common place for a kill switch is off of the fuel pump wires. So it's no secret. Though it's a good thing to do (at least in my opinion) anyways.
08-21-2007, 06:26 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
well as i said you can splice the wire anywhere in between the fuse box and the pump, so to take all the panels off and look where the wire was spliced takes some time.(esp if you do the way where you have to remove seat)
the kill switch will stall the thief, so there are more chances he will leave the car, remember they not gonna waste more than 2 min looking why the car wont start. add some kind of car alarm with the led, steering wheel lock - and you already made him complicated to steal it.
but if he really wants to steal it he will
the kill switch will stall the thief, so there are more chances he will leave the car, remember they not gonna waste more than 2 min looking why the car wont start. add some kind of car alarm with the led, steering wheel lock - and you already made him complicated to steal it.
but if he really wants to steal it he will
08-21-2007, 06:29 PM
#5
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Rochester, New York -> Santa Clara, CA
Posts: 10,443
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Re: (3lo)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 3lo »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">well as i said you can splice the wire anywhere in between the fuse box and the pump, so to take all the panels off and look where the wire was spliced takes some time.(esp if you do the way where you have to remove seat)
the kill switch will stall the thief, so there are more chances he will leave the car, remember they not gonna waste more than 2 min looking why the car wont start. add some kind of car alarm with the led, steering wheel lock - and you already made him complicated to steal it.
but if he really wants to steal it he will</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, depends.
If you have an alarm they def. won't stick around if it don't start right up. But if you're at a mall or something at 11pm - and there's no alarm, they probably are gonna wait longer, but if they don't find a kill in any of the obvious locations (like the fuel pump), they're gonna abandon ship - FAST.
Best bet is a random wire in line from the fuel pump to the ECU - not at the fuel pump per-se, if ya get what I mean.
the kill switch will stall the thief, so there are more chances he will leave the car, remember they not gonna waste more than 2 min looking why the car wont start. add some kind of car alarm with the led, steering wheel lock - and you already made him complicated to steal it.
but if he really wants to steal it he will</TD></TR></TABLE>
Eh, depends.
If you have an alarm they def. won't stick around if it don't start right up. But if you're at a mall or something at 11pm - and there's no alarm, they probably are gonna wait longer, but if they don't find a kill in any of the obvious locations (like the fuel pump), they're gonna abandon ship - FAST.
Best bet is a random wire in line from the fuel pump to the ECU - not at the fuel pump per-se, if ya get what I mean.
08-21-2007, 06:52 PM
#7
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: chicago, il, usa
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: DIY car security (3lo)
i put a kill switch in ALL of my cars, and yeah of course to the fuel pump, so that way my car dont start. i never put the switch to my ignition, i dont want the raw fuel flowing through the engine without getting ignited killing my cat converter. so i always put my switch inline with the <U>fuel pump relay in the junction box</U>, fuel pump relay doesnt click on, no power to the fuel pump, car wont start, ITS SO SIMPLE. i dont like messing around the ecu unless i have to, and ive had experience going straight to the fuel pump itself, something always happens to the wires and then ur car dies or it wont start. putting the switch in with the fuel pump relay. its the safest and the most reliable way. just find a wiring harness for the junction box for whatever car you are working on, find the fuel pump relay, <U>put the switch inline with the coil's ground side of the fuel pump relay.</U> feed the wires through the firewall grommet and find your own special little place to hide your switch. never failed me, saved my *** plenty of times!
Trending Topics
09-03-2007, 04:44 PM
#12
Honda-Tech Member
09-08-2007, 11:44 AM
#13
Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Chapel Hill, NC, USA
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I have a 99 Civic DX coupe and I just checked the wires from my fuel pump and came across a question. There were two yellow/green wires. One was skinny and the other was a little bit thicker. Should i cut the thicker one?
Modified by suko69 at 6:11 PM 9/8/2007
Modified by suko69 at 6:11 PM 9/8/2007
09-09-2007, 08:05 PM
#14
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Columbia, CT, 06237
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Correct me if Im wrong, but if a thief wanted to steal your car and it had a fuel cut on it, could he not just pop your rear seat, jump the Hotwire directly to a 12v source and bam gone?
09-09-2007, 08:43 PM
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: WORKING for MY stuff in, CA, United States
Posts: 3,281
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
For the critics:
You have to remember, this is not an end-all thieves technique....this is simply something that can be done to help make things more complicated. The more **** the thief has to do to get the car in his garage...the less of a chance it will happen.
You have to remember, this is not an end-all thieves technique....this is simply something that can be done to help make things more complicated. The more **** the thief has to do to get the car in his garage...the less of a chance it will happen.
09-10-2007, 11:10 PM
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Ca, USA
Posts: 219
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: (suko69)
guys is it always yellow with a green stripe wire? i did this before on my rex it worked good but i sold it already.. and im planing to put one on my new honda.. thanks! and btw nice post! 
09-11-2007, 12:01 AM
#19
B*a*n*n*e*d
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Riverside, So CAL
Posts: 2,141
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: DIY car security (3lo)
LOL, Just run a 12 gauge wire from any 12 volt source under the dash and that honda will be history. Don't make it seem like a gay fuel cutt-off switch will be an end all security measure... 
02-01-2009, 07:34 PM
#24
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: 626, CA
Posts: 334
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: car security (kill switch)
dont do an ignition cut off because a thief can just push and pop clutch, fuel pump cut off would be better. you would need a relay to do the switch either way, if your switch is more then i think 5 feet from split you are going to need to ground it differently. there is another post that is more detailed. https://honda-tech.com/forums/audio-security-video-27/%5Bhow-%5D-car-security-1794938/
03-06-2009, 03:02 AM
#25
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: SOMD
Posts: 468
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: car security (kill switch)
has anyone ever tried to wire your fuel pump into that seatbelt plug under the seat?? so that the seat belt has to be fastened for it to start??? lolzzz talk about confusing a thief.