drSquish

Okay, so I put on my timing belt, tensioner, and water pump with one problem; I am unable to properly time the motor. My B16A has an Endyn Fluidampr which was rubbed off a bit by my old 89' Civic's engine bay. I can still read the numbers more or less, but it's difficult. I began by pulling the spark plugs from the #1 and #4 cylinders, and replacing them with two equal length screwdrivers. I turned the crank untill they were both at TDC, and then installed the belt with the cams properly aligned.

After all that, I cranked the engine several times until I heard what I believed was a cylinder firing straight out of the exhaust. Thinking I was 180 degrees out, I turned the crank until it was at its next TDC. It still refuses to fire.

How can I time it without pulling the crank pulley?

FYI: I have no lower timing cover.
Pics en route.

Murk 'EM

a timging light

B18C5-EH2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Murk ’EM &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">a timging light</TD></TR></TABLE>

Ummmm...so you want the guy to just try different positions with the crank and cam gears and keep running it each time and trying to check the timing with a timing light?

You probably don't realize he could destroy the engine by doing that!

To answer the question I'd remove the lower timing cover and check the crank gear located behind the timing cover - there should be a visible mark to line up with another mark on the oil pump. Line the marks up on the crank gear/oil pump, then make sure the cam gear pointers are lined up with each other, then reinstall the timing belt.

0HAMOTORSPORTS

He said WITHOUT removing the crank pulley.

use your screwdriver method, and then set both cams at tdc. It should be fairly easy

B18C5-EH2

Okay well with no lower timing cover then the timing mark on the crank gear may be visible still.

...but why try and set the timing without pulling the pulley off? It's a few extra steps to be absolutely 100% positive that the timing isn't 180 degrees out.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B18C5-EH2 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Okay well with no lower timing cover then the timing mark on the crank gear may be visible still.

...but why try and set the timing without pulling the pulley off? It's a few extra steps to be absolutely 100% positive that the timing isn't 180 degrees out.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Tom! Long time, dude

And yes, I agree with the big man here. Don't be lazy and risk damaging your engine. Get a stock crank pulley, get a lower timing cover (for Christ's sake!) and do it right.

drSquish

I'm too broke to afford towing to a nearby shop. Bascily, I want to get my car running good enough to drive; more than likely so I can take it to the shop to be re-timed. I am not paying for a fluidampr crank puller, a stock crank puller, and a better torque wrench. I was told Fluidamprs need to be "pressed" on; a process if done incorrectly can crack your crankshaft.

I was told a cylinder has 4 TDC positions. I was also told to pick the tallest of these four and time it accoridingly with the cams at TDC. This to my knowledge is entirely incorrect.

Help!

B18C5-EH2

If you got the crank pulley on then why can't you get it back off?

B18C5-EH2

I'm not being a dick I'm being 100% logical here.

If you're too broke to pay a shop to do it that's fine, but by mickey mousing **** and not lining up the crank gear mark with the oil pump mark you're risking completely ******* your engine if it's not already ruined from being spun over out of time badly enough to allow piston to valve contact.

It is not worth risking being too lazy to remove the crank pulley. All of this screw driver sitting in a cylinder crap is not THE way to time an engine.