Bouncing idle?check engine light after b16a3 in eg civic
#1
Honda-Tech Member
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Bouncing idle?check engine light after b16a3 in eg civic
When i start the car it idles high then bounces between 1000 and 1500 rpms and after it warms up check engine light comes on, I was told that I had to run a wire from ecu harness (spot d3) to the knock sensor and splice into it. I will do that tomorrow, I replaced ALL fluids so I know it's not the rad fluid. Does any one know if that wire will solve the bouncing idle AND check engine light?
#2
Re: Bouncing idle?check engine light after b16a3 in eg civic (B16EG)
could be a couple of things.
1. check the IAC (idle air control)
2. check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
4. pull the fast idle valve and check the spring loaded plate, it could be loose and could mess with your idle.
5. vac leak?
6. pull the ecu for 10 min or so and try again
1. check the IAC (idle air control)
2. check the TPS (throttle position sensor)
4. pull the fast idle valve and check the spring loaded plate, it could be loose and could mess with your idle.
5. vac leak?
6. pull the ecu for 10 min or so and try again
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#8
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Uhh can someone please help me out, I dropped all the fluids and I called honda and the guy told me to run the car with rad cap off for a couple of mins but idle is still wack, I don't know the spots where the idle air control is and the throttle position sensor is as well as fast idle valve or which vac to check, I probably know where all this stuff is, just not by name. also how do I check the cel code? I'm fresh to all this...also my check engine light comes on after a while, some one told me to run a wire from ecu harness (he pointed out which spot) to the knock sensor and splice into it and this will shut the light off? Has anyone ever heard of this? I've been told this a fiarly common problem. my original d16z6 was nothing like this, the b16 is sweet but the idle and the light make my car feel ghetto. If someone could help me I would appreciate it...
#10
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Re: (B16EG)
There are 2 sets of wires under the glove compartment above the ecu but closer to the passenger side door.
One of the wires has a blue 3 port adapter and the other has a blue 2 port adapter.
With the car off...
Bend a paper clip or any flexible metal that you can stick into the 2 port adapter to make a connection. With the paper clip in the socket (or port), turn the key in the ignition into the 2nd click, just before starting the car, this should light up all the dummy lights on your dash and your check engine light will flash the code number.
Slow flashes count as tens, and quick flashes count as ones.
EXAMPLE:
Four slow flashes and three quick flashes = code 43.
Hope this helps.
One of the wires has a blue 3 port adapter and the other has a blue 2 port adapter.
With the car off...
Bend a paper clip or any flexible metal that you can stick into the 2 port adapter to make a connection. With the paper clip in the socket (or port), turn the key in the ignition into the 2nd click, just before starting the car, this should light up all the dummy lights on your dash and your check engine light will flash the code number.
Slow flashes count as tens, and quick flashes count as ones.
EXAMPLE:
Four slow flashes and three quick flashes = code 43.
Hope this helps.
#13
Re: (2camsaam)
Does the Del Sol b16 have the map sensor on the throttle body? Mine wouldnt idle right when I swaped in my B16 when the map sensor wasnt plugged into the throttle body had the bouncy idle swapped in a itr throttle body with the map sensor on it and its worked fine ever since. Just another possibility.
#16
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Thread Starter
all I had to do in my case was let the car run long enough so that the idle would bounce, (after a while I started revving it a bit till it got warm enough) because my idle would bounce after car was warm, I unplugged the throtlle position sensor, ( backside of intake manifold, black/grey plug) adjusted my idle about one full turn to the left, plugged in the tps ( your check engine light should come on when you unplug the tps) your idle should go lower, shut off car for a minute , start it and the problem should go away, at least for me it was that easy.
#17
hey guys i had the exact problem on my accord, turns out it was the distributor rotor and cap. mine werer worn out and boy was it horrible. this caused my car to go crazy tach and everything. anyone with this problem, i recomend u buy the kit for 80 bucks and change the rotor and cap. i did, works like a charm, no problems .
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