Eg.ls.turbo

Sup guys finally got my motor put together and everything runs perfect. Got lots of torque and vtec hits the way it should hit.

My problem is when I'm driving in gear and slowing down to a stop, I'll put it in neutral and car shuts off, but starts up fine. But if I'm goin fast enough and put it neutral it doesn't shut off, it only happens when I'm slowin down or coming to a stop sometimes. So what's causing this to happen?

B_Swapped93

So it only happens in gear ? not in netural. if it does it in both i'd say idle screw is set to low or throttle cable with not enough tension.

Eg.ls.turbo

No it only happens when slowing down and puttin it in neutral. But if I'm driving fast enough ( lets say 50mph )and put it in neutral it doesn't shut off. The idle goes all the way down and trys to shut off but doesn't shut off.

B_Swapped93

Does the "idle" go up and down then choke out when you're coming to a stop. should sound like you're running HUGE cams mine did that for a while but that was because my idle screw was set way to low. And the idle was being determined by the cable. which tended to get stuck either at 2K or 300-450rpm

Eg.ls.turbo

Yea man that's what it does. I just got stock gsr cams and cam gears.

Ill post my setup

B18c1 engine and gsr trans
Gsr girdle
Ls crank w/ ls rods
Type r pistons
Arp rod bolts
Yonaka oem headgasket
Golden eagle plug off kit
Skunk2 pro series manni
4-1 Yonaka series2 headers
Old ngk spark plugs ( might need to buy new ones )
Ngk spark plug one step colder plugs gapped to .45
Accel 255cc low impedence injectors
Supertech dual valve spring retainers and keepers
Stock gsr cams and cam gears
Stock ls throttle body ( hope it's ok to run this only thing I had to run on the manni )

B_Swapped93

Seeing as the TB controlls the idle start there, if you can find a different tb try that first. If not S2 tb's are like 120.00(might as well pick one up) are you getting any cels ? give the IACV a clean jut for good messure. what does you'r idle sit at when you're stationary(car fully wamrned up)

Eg.ls.turbo

No cels at all. The car idles at bout 800 to 900rpm

Eg.ls.turbo

Anybody help??

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

OP, do not follow anyone's advice if they tell you to just buy random parts. There are some diagnostic procedures you can use to isolate the problem. What is the idle speed when the car is just warming up? Does it have trouble until it gets to operating temperature?

There are a few things you can try to fix the problem.

- check igintion and cam timing
- resistance test the plug wires
- check spark and verify you are getting a strong spark
- check fuel pressure
- do a compression test
- check valve lash
- make sure your base idle is correctly set (put ECU in service mode, unplug electrical connector to IACV, set idle at 600 rpm with the idle adjust screw)
- clean out the IACV
- test the PCV valve
- check the tension in the throttle cable
- use a can of carb cleaner or an unlit propane torch to check for vacuum leaks
- test the MAP, ECT, and TPS sensor voltages (procedure is in a Helms manual)
- if you have a chip emulator (e.g. S300) make sure your idle maps and other settings are correct


All of these procedures cost nothing and will only take a couple hours. Hopefully they will help you find the problem. If you've got spare parts lying around you could try replacing the PCV valve, MAP sensor, TPS sensor, ECT sensor, distributor, spark plug wires, throttle body, FPR, and especially the fuel filter. But make sure you do the other tests, first. I had a similar problem and it was caused by overly tight valve lash. Many people with similar problems also have a bad fuel filter. If this is not new this is one part that it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace as a general "tune up" item.

Eg.ls.turbo

Cool thanks man. The engine idle at warming up is at 800-900rpm. It idles fine and drives great. I looked at my spark plugs and they had white specs? Could this because spark plug gap or running lean?

Also I did have some idling up and down but I figured out it was cause I had the wrong sensor on the iacv. So I switch that back and idled back to normal. Don't know if it messed up the memory of the ecu and have to reset it idling back? Hope thy makes sense.

Everything runs great on the car just that shutting off in neautral. Ill try the idle thing that u are talkin bout.

GagnarTheUnruly

iTrader: (3)

ECU learning should be a factor, I don't think. What kind of engine management do you have?

Not sure I know what you mean about changing the IACV sensor.

I missed the part about you having an LS throttle body. If that is not connected properly I've heard it can cause idle problems.

Eg.ls.turbo

I have a chipped p72. The iacv plug I had the ect plugged into the iacv and the iacv plugged into the ect sensor. So I found out I had them plugged wrong and switched them over it idles normal now.

I did the ecu learning and adjusted my idle screw and adjusted just a lil on the distributor and now it doesn't die when coming to a stop in neutral. Now the idle drops to 300rpm but jumps back up to normal idle

Still acts like it wants to die but now it doesnt

bigpunn421

mine does something similar to this when extremely hot. i raised the idel to 1200 when warm and its fine.

check the tps too. that could be the issue

Eg.ls.turbo

Thanks for the info that's exactly wht I did and it doesn't die now thanks

Eg.ls.turbo

Hey guys found out that the idle was not what was causing my car to die in neutral, it's my freakin radiator fan that stays on all the time every time I turn the ignition on. Anybody have a radiator fan wiring diagram so I can rewire it to wher it's suppose to b?

The radiator fan is killing my battery!!!!

jdm_rb20

A 1993 model car should not die at neutral from a bad battery. 1993 model cars depend on the alternator while the car is running. If the car is running and it dies, then the first thing I would check is the alternator and wiring.

I work at a shop that does oil changes, batteries and other misc maintenance. I will tell you that NEWER cars can have driveability issues if the battery is bad, but every pre-2000 car I have seen will drive fine with a dead battery. But then again, when the probable is impossible, then it's time to start suspecting the impossible...lol

rhymeshark916

You need a tune.

Eg.ls.turbo

Yea I've read up some post and it said the same thing u r saying. I have a spare alternator laying around ill change it out.

Wanted to add that I work night shift and when I go to warm up the car it idles the way it should, after its warmed up then i drive it and come to a red light ill apply the brakes and put it in neutral, all my light dims. But only does it everytime I apply the brake and in neutral, but in gear it's fine.