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Update, this past Saturday finally got the car running, Between late Friday nigh and almost the whole day on Saturday I got everything needed to get the engine running. Installed the new intake manifold gasket, got the alternator installed, the ebay headers installed and finally the new crank pulley after borrowing the tool from pepboys. Yesterday I got the compression test done and got good numbers so thats a good relief..
New headers
I have some fitment issues, I have to get a donut or what ever its call the round piece that goes in the header/mid pipe joint and get the middle exhaust hanger relocated.
Cyl 1
Cyl 2
Cyl 3
Cyl 4 179? got the same reading after 2 dry test. I didn bother
This how the new spark plug looked after running the engine for about a total of around 30-40 mins between Saturday, Sunday and Yesterday. I am not sure if the fact I didn't gap them to spec played a factor on the way they look. But after the compression I got the gap adjusted to 0.043 and the engine is running a lot smooth, since I also managed to get one of the 02 sensors connected.
Great work getting the car running. You can usually find hardened bolts at home depot to replace any broken or missing ones.
The spark plugs look ok but pretty dirty for just 30 minutes of run time, might just want to run some cheap oil for the first 500 miles then use sea foam and change the oil to clean it out.
The header is made for a d16y8 so you are going to have fitment problems, it also appears to lack the catalytic converter section which is why you have a gap. I highly recommend re using the factory manifold and catalytic converter to keep things simple and reliable. A factory Honda has a higher resale value than an eBay Honda
Also I usually use degreaser spray, purple power etc, on the engine blocks with a scrub brush to get all the grim and grit off. After scrubbing the degreaser hit it with a hose and repeat, usually 2-3 passes with the brush and hose gets everything looking new again. Those engine cleaner degreasers in a can usually go empty in 30 seconds and are worthless, so I use the bottle with a trigger
Be sure you are cleaning your ground connections as your re assemble them
Great work getting the car running. You can usually find hardened bolts at home depot to replace any broken or missing ones.
The spark plugs look ok but pretty dirty for just 30 minutes of run time, might just want to run some cheap oil for the first 500 miles then use sea foam and change the oil to clean it out.
The header is made for a d16y8 so you are going to have fitment problems, it also appears to lack the catalytic converter section which is why you have a gap. I highly recommend re using the factory manifold and catalytic converter to keep things simple and reliable. A factory Honda has a higher resale value than an eBay Honda
Also I usually use degreaser spray, purple power etc, on the engine blocks with a scrub brush to get all the grim and grit off. After scrubbing the degreaser hit it with a hose and repeat, usually 2-3 passes with the brush and hose gets everything looking new again. Those engine cleaner degreasers in a can usually go empty in 30 seconds and are worthless, so I use the bottle with a trigger
Be sure you are cleaning your ground connections as your re assemble them
Great work so far
Thanks for the feedback, I ended up getting a new bolt from Honda, I actually had the right bolt but for some reason it was not going all the way in. The new one i got from Honda went in all the way in on the T bracket.
Yeah I am planning to run seafoam through the brake booster vac hose and a use Lucas gas treatment/injector cleaner. Being a junk yard used engine who knows for how long the engine have been seating in their lot or the previous life.. For oil I am using left over oil I had laying around for the same reason.
I guess I really didn't pay attention that the header was designed for D16y8, that explains everything. To be honest I will keep the car the closest to stock I can, I am not going to do any performance mods, the only reason I got the header is because it was the cheaper option to replace the cracked stock manifold. I will keep aftermarket header in there until one day I decide to sell it, then I will try to find a used or a cheap new factory style catted manifold..
For degreaser I end up getting Awesome Orange and Awesome Concentrated degreaser which helped clean the engine block to the way it looks now.
In another note, now that i know the engine runs and its good condition I am going to replace the timing belt and water pump as part of the new fresh start I am giving the car. I also still need to install the new fuel pump, and replace the hub ball joints.
Last Saturday, 06-13-15 did the Timing belt kit. and today replaced thermostat and the clutch slave cyl. At this point I am almost done but I have to figure out a way to remove the Axel nuts in order to change the balljoints.
I havent posted in a while, but I just finish putting the car back together this past Friday, the only thing left was putting the knuckles, brakes, and the AC bracket and power steering.
After test driving the car a few things came up that I didnt encounter when I ran the engine with the car on jack stands. The thermostat housing was leaking since I reused the old thermostat gasket when I did the timing belt kit, the throttle cable need to be lubricated since it was sticking a little which could be the cause of the little hesitation the car is having when taking off on first. I corrected all those small issues except for the the Primary O2 that went bad as its throwing the p0132 high voltage code.. I guess I need a new one?
I still need to give it the final touches like cleaning the interior, either fix or just replace the muffler that have a broken tip and fixing the driver side window that keep coming off the tracks
Prepped and painted the spare valve cover from the old engine
Prepped and painted the spare valve cover from the old engine
the knuckles reconnected
The car is finally wheels for the first time since I brought it home
Before the painted valve cover
After with the painted valve cover from the old engine.
Had issues with over heading, the O2 sensors, and the accelerator cable adjustment. I made another thread to get help/ideas to diagnose and fix the issues. In summary the car was over heating due to air in the system, the 02 sensor code was due to the mixed Primary and secondary 02 sensor connectors. And after a couple of days playing with the accelerator cable adjustment this morning I got it really close to where I feel it should be, I just need to make small adjustments to see if I can get it better.
Well after a few 2 years of running this used engine, the head gasket started going back in December. I was not burning coolant or mixing coolant and oil but instead I was blowing coolant through the reservoir. I had an oil loss due to a combination of oil seals, and oil pan gaskets that were leaking slowly. Fast forward 2 weeks ago, I started getting a misfire code for cyl 1 and 4, and after putting injector cleaner the code for Cyl 4 went way but I was still getting the one for Cyl 1. So I decided to go ahead tackle the issue and ordered the head gasket, and bunch of other parts and oil seals/gaskets that I will replace while I am at it.
After taking removing the intake manifold found traces of oil on the intake ports for Cyl 1 and Cyl 4, which after talking to different ppl leads me to think the valve seals went and that is what was causing my engine misfire in the last few weeks..
The issues that I will address and parts I am going to replace while I am in there at this point are the following,
Engine
*Head Gasket/w Head Bolts - OEM
*Rear Main seal
*Oil Pan Gasket
*Crank Shaft seal
*Valve seals
*New Exhaust and Intake manifold gaskets.
*PCV Valve
Transmission:
*In put shaft bearing and seal
*Axle seals
*Throw out bearing
*Clutch master Cyl
Brakes:
*New Front Centric Rotors, Pads and lines
*Rear Centric Drums and Shoes and hardware kit
Suspension:
*Change bushings in front lower control arms
*Front Lower control arm ball joints
*New Wheel cylinder-For the drum, they $5 each so I might as well refresh it.
*Rear trailing arm bushing
I started this project this past weekend, so here are some of the pictures I have taken so far of the progress.
Getting Started After removing the intake manifold, found traces of oil on the Intake port for Cyl 1 & 4 while 2 and 3 look completely clean From left to right Cyl 4, 3, 2, 1. Cyl 1 does show sign burning oil.. Umm maybe this is the leak I was blaming on the rear main.. Smh I could have easily fixed this issue by changing the Distributor oil seal and adding gasket maker? (I remember changing the distributor back when I installed the engine 2 years ago but I guess I got a bad one ) A lot of carbon build up on Cyl 1
Completely got side tracked and forgot to update the rest of the thread.
Cont Engine Block-Head Cleaning-Head Gasket-Valve Seals Replacement- Rear and Front Main seals- Oil Pan Gasket- Camshaft Gasket -
First fase of cleaning the head. Cleaning the pistons and block surface. Final product Final product Replacling valve Seals Oil pan gasket replacement Oil pan gasket replacement Replaced the rear main seal New Oem head gasket. Completely for got to take a picture but I spray it with Cooper spray as little insurance/protection. Replacing the pilot bearing.
After making sure everything was good with the engine, timing and head gasket wise. and the transmission shifted fine. Replaced the exhaust mid pipe which had a leak. Since I had a ebay header, decided to finished the EX conversion with a Magnaflow OEM replacement exhaust and Borla mid pipe.
Nice! Something I would like to see this time around before firing her up again. Instead of messing around with seafoam and all that bs:
Actually send your injectors out to be professionally ultrasonic cleaned and serviced. It should only cost 12 to 15 dollars, but they will come back better than new (new orings/screens, balanced to less than 1% etc).
Take your throttle body, intake manifold, FITV and IACV apart and thoroughly clean them with simple green. Replace with all new gaskets and new vacuum lines. New pcv valve and clean out the black breather box too. (Maybe get a y8 intake manifold instead?)
You should do a valve lash adjustment while your at it, before you put the new valve cover gasket on there.
You mentioned spark plug gaps. That is very important. My integra ran like **** with how the plugs came pregapped at 0.032. It runs so much better at the factory spec 0.043...
When you finish up and get it running, I would set the ignition timing.
PS where'd the wrinkle black valve cover go? I actually liked that.
Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 01-22-2018 at 07:43 AM.
Yeah I noticed that, so far the car have been running strong with no issues.
Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46
Nice! Something I would like to see this time around before firing her up again. Instead of messing around with seafoam and all that bs:
Actually send your injectors out to be professionally ultrasonic cleaned and serviced. It should only cost 12 to 15 dollars, but they will come back better than new (new orings/screens, balanced to less than 1% etc).
Take your throttle body, intake manifold, FITV and IACV apart and thoroughly clean them with simple green. Replace with all new gaskets and new vacuum lines. New pcv valve and clean out the black breather box too. (Maybe get a y8 intake manifold instead?)
You should do a valve lash adjustment while your at it, before you put the new valve cover gasket on there.
You mentioned spark plug gaps. That is very important. My integra ruan like **** with how the plugs came pregapped at 0.032. It runs so much better at the factory spec 0.043...
When you finish up and get it running, I would set the ignition timing.
PS where'd the wrinkle black valve cover go? I actually liked that.
Thanks for those suggestions, I didnt think the Y8 intake was compatible with the Y7 head. I put the car back together in Nov. and its been running fine except for oil leaks, it started developing after a the first few days. My guess is I didnt install the rear main seal or the distributor seal correctly. I am going to look into finding place for the injectors. I replaced the PCV valve, and new spark plugs(I might need to take out and gap them to 0.032 like you suggested), new air filter. I also got new brakes Rotors/pads for the front which I installed when I reinstalled everything back together. and new drums/shoes hardware kit for the rear which I dint have time to install.
The wrinkle paint valve cover is coming back in the Spring since the paint started pilling off due to the fact that it got sprayed with coolant a few times when the head gasket started to go and I need to re spray it again. The valve cover in the pic is my second valve cover from the original engine that was in the car when I first bought it.
I am not sure about your specific application, but I had to gap my b18b integra's plugs to 0.043"
Thanks for the Link I just sent them an email to get a quote.. Well for the Plugs I will need to check the current gap, the car is stock with exception to the ebay header.. but I am mostly looking to get good fuel economy since I have faster car.
Thanks for the Link I just sent them an email to get a quote.. Well for the Plugs I will need to check the current gap, the car is stock with exception to the ebay header.. but I am mostly looking to get good fuel economy since I have faster car.
I did my valve lash, spark plugs and wires all at the same time and my mpgs went from 27 before to 33 afterwards. I think 33mpg is a pretty good average for an automatic integra. My valve lash required very little adjustment, so I am thinking that the properly gapped plugs played the biggest factor, with the other factors being going from newish autozone wires to new oem ngk and from newish NGK Iridium to new NGK copper plugs.
I did my valve lash, spark plugs and wires all at the same time and my mpgs went from 27 before to 33 afterwards. I think 33mpg is a pretty good average for an automatic integra. My valve lash required very little adjustment, so I am thinking that the properly gapped plugs played the biggest factor, with the other factors being going from newish autozone wires to new oem ngk and from newish NGK Iridium to new NGK copper plugs.
Thats good to know, I should look into readjusting my valves soon, My current average is 24-26 when I drive 75% City.. In the highway I get 34-36 as it is right now.. To make sure I understand clearly you went from NGK Iridium to NGK copper? I thought Iridium were better since that's what Honda used from the factory?
On my Integra, from what I can tell they used both, (maybe depending on the year). There is a lot of opinions on spark plugs, but from what from what I have read and experienced, the iridium were made to last 100k as opposed to the basic "copper" (V-Power NGK) plugs being made for 30k intervals, but the V-Power plugs are wayyyyyy cheaper and may offer better performance. I can tell you that they are both oem and that my car is running much better now, though I did change a few other things at the same time as the plugs, so who knows.
On my Integra, from what I can tell they used both, (maybe depending on the year). There is a lot of opinions on spark plugs, but from what from what I have read and experienced, the iridium were made to last 100k as opposed to the basic "copper" (V-Power NGK) plugs being made for 30k intervals, but the V-Power plugs are wayyyyyy cheaper and may offer better performance. I can tell you that they are both oem and that my car is running much better now, though I did change a few other things at the same time as the plugs, so who knows.
Actually I was wrong the ones I got where the V NGK 2262 {#ZFR5F11} (Copper) V-Power, the first set I got 3 years ago when I origianlly changed the engine I think I got the Platinum..
But thats good to know that this ones are good quality as wheel, and fact that they are cheap enough its not a big deal to change them every 30k miles.
05-26-2015, 02:11 PM
Re: 99 DX - DD Rebuild Project
