biggs21222

Hi all first time poster here is the problem did a tune up spark plugs, fuel filter, rotor and cap. I did valve adjustment, car started fine thought i heard a noise in the motor so i pulled a plug wire to listen for it (or lack ) did this with two or maybe three of the plugs but when i pulled the #3 plug wire the engine sputtered died and wouldn't restart. Car had only given me one no start issue before and i narrowed that to starter which has now been replaced. The plugs are ngk the rotor and cap are new. I have put a new icm, tried 2 new coils kept one installed and bought a complete used distributor which is installed now with new ICM and coil. I have power on coil. I have power at icm. I have signal at coil neg (test light blinks when cranking ). I took a reading with multimeter for ground at coil base, icm base, and g101 all are 0.0 ohms , also when cranking the yellow/green ecm ignition wire fluctuates around 8v as well as tach wire ( blu) but tach on dash does not move during cranking. I also tried a used ecm from a 98 civic ex with Automatic still no start So Im out of ideas. I pulled main relay and bench tested per manual continuity where its supposed to be ... what is going on? oh yeah the dizzy sensors tested at 350 ( or so) ohms at ecm connector within specs but close. Could i just need a new dizzy housing? I don't want to throw more parts at this. Is there a way to test the distributor sensor signal? Or the Ecm Ign signal?

Former User

Have you checked for spark and whether the fuel pump primes?

Any CEL codes?

Jimi Hondrix

Another possibility: 7 Crankshaft Position Sensor Failure Symptoms | DoItYourself.com

biggs21222

Thanks Jon. No codes pulled with my rinky dink odb2 scanner, and i get a very weak spark right off the coil ( orange only jumps about 3rd of an inch) Nothing at plugs.
Fuel pump on 2 sec off along with Check engine lamp thereafter.

biggs21222

jimi thanks for reply are you referring to the one in distributor or one on the front of the engine ( by timing belt) i did not think that the one by timing belt (fluctuation) had anything to do with spark? and i have switched out the other sensors (pulled used but unknown distributor) the ohms check out on both distributors ( for the position sensors) so i am reasoning that it is outside of distributor.

Former User

Post the actual voltage measurements at Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and ICM.

biggs21222

I dont remember exact voltage but it was above 12v checked with power probe believe it was battery voltage, one reading that seemed off was the yellow green it was 11.5v with IGN on should that be be Battery voltage? I will take fresh readings in the morning and post

Former User

Do the tests exactly as described in the service manual.

Also try swapping a new fuse into the dash fuse 9 slot.

biggs21222

Did the icm testing, all checks out, when i did it the first time it did as well but doesnt hurt to double check I bought new icm already, its possible that its a dud... I have three ICMs, one from the original distributor, a new one installed currently, and one in the used distributor. All have been installed and car behaves the same. Swapped # 9 15 amp cant try to crank till tomorrow since i get off work late and neighbors have complained about noise lately( lots of cranking ... no starting lol). The voltage readings ( with key on) 12.16v coil pos & neg, Blu wire 12.0 v , yellow green 11.37v , battery voltage 12.2v

Former User

What were the voltage readings?

Did you test Yel/Grn wire for a short and open?

biggs21222

i didnt check yellow green for short to ground but has 0.0 resistance to icm the voltage readings were ( with key on and wires hooked to icm ) yellow green 11.37 , blu 12v , coil pos 12.16 , battery 12.20 v

biggs21222

yellow green not shorted to ground or any other pins in 32p connector

Former User

Does the fuel pump prime?

Have you Ohm tested the coil?

biggs21222

fuel pump primes and coil resistance from a-b 0.7 a to spring 15.67

Former User

Are you subtracting the internal resistance of your meter from the primary coil reading?

biggs21222

No internal resistance its a fluke ( i did check though)

biggs21222

I tested ground resistance again and found something that seems strange the resistance reading with key off are great, 0.3 0.5 ohms on g101 and the distributor housing but when key is on im getting 14 ohms resistance it seems way off to me is this normal or am i looking at a short of some kind?

Jimi Hondrix

CPS location and install:

http://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/0...sition-sensor/

Crankshaft position sensor - Honda Civic Forum

Your car should have thrown a CEL if the CPS is bad.. probably best to rule out everything else first before replacing the sensor.

Former User

Ohm tests are always done with the key off.

Former User

A minimum of 4 pins in 32P ECU connector A should read continuity to body ground.

Former User

Pulling plug wires with engine running will blow the coil, so a blown coil surely caused the initial no-start issue.

This^ looks like a run-of-the-mill coil/ICM problem...

...and you apparently have not replaced the plug wires. Bad plug wires can blow the coil/ICM, just like pulling plug wires with the engine running.

My recommendation -- install new plug wires, and at the same time also install a KNOWN GOOD distributor (preferably new OEM) because as shown in the quote below, you are mixing and matching new and used distributor parts, which can be very problematic.

Check dash fuse 25.

The Yel/Grn wire should be tested when disconnected from the ICM. What's the voltage when wire is voltage tested this way?