xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I got a 97 civic, runs n drives fine but the temp gauge reads above the second cold line when at operating temp is this normal, it blows nice hot air but the temp gauge seems on the low side, id add photos but not sure how to

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Guide to the common (noob) question: How do I post pictures to the forum?

Alternatively, you can use http://www.imgur.com without having to sign up for an account there.

The temp needle should sit near-horizontally at operating temp, as if it's underlining the "icon" for coolant temperatures. Basically, just a bit under the middle. If it doesn't get that high, when the car is at operating temperature, turn on your heater. Does the car blow hot air? Once again, with the car at operating temperature, open the hood. Does the radiator fan (passenger side) cycle on and off, or does it just stay on all the time? How many miles are on the car? When was the last time the thermostat replaced, and was it replaced with a genuine Honda unit?

crazyhouse2011

Unplug the coolant temp sensor, the one that goes to your cluster. My 95 has it under the distributor, but i think the 96-00 is different. Find it, and short it out with a wire by looping it back on itself. Then go to the ignition, turn the key to ON (II), wihtout starting it, and see if the needle moves, see if it goes all the way to the top, But this is important:

DO NOT LET THE NEEDLE HIT THE TOP AND STAY THERE!

It will damage your cluster. If it doesn't go very high, then you need a new coolant gauge.

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

It blows hot heat, id have to check the fans tommorow, the car has 141000 on it, dont know when the thermostat has been changed last, i just bought the car

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I forgot to add its 9 degrees out

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

Ill check the gauge and replace the thermostat when i get time and it warms up, will it hurt the motor if i run it like this, i wouldnt imagine it would but idk

Wdpfreak145

All civics with proper cooling systems read a little on the "low" side. Normally the needle doesn't move above the second water mark on the "water temp symbol" and this is perfectly fine. That generally means the car is operating between 140F and 180F (at least this is true for my car according to my glowshift water temp gauge). For comparison, the stock fan switch does not switch on until ~210F I think.

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

Mine doest even hit that water mark symbol, its above the second line from the C

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

The gauge works i didnt get to test it but i put a peice of cardboad in front of the radiator and the temp came up so i know it works, it still runs cold on idle but it could be maybe cause the temp here in wisconsin has been averaging at around 0 degrees lately idk, im gonna switch out the thermostat when it warms up

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I put a new thermostat in it and it does the same thing it heats up better when going down the road but still doesnt seem right, ill let it sit and idle for about 10 to 20 minutes and the lower rad hose is still cold but the top gets warm, its cold here in wisconsin yet but i think it would come up at least at idle but idk, i gotta pull the thermostat back out cause i dont think the gasket seated right it leaks a little and i might hook a manual gauge up to see what its doing

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I tested the gauge, when i ground it, it goes all the way to hot so i know it works, must just be a cold running motor, probably doesnt help that its 10 degrees out here right now and thes run 170 degree thermostats, i think next winter i might try and find a 180 or maybe 190 degree thermostat

chillerice

You tried bleeding the system? Maybe the temperture sending unit is bad...

crazyhouse2011

MAybe, OP, you could try what i said. it will take you all of 5 minutes and will rule out the temp sending unit as faulty.

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

It comes up to operating temp while driving now, but when idling it slowly drops, i bled the system ill try to bleed it some more, im thinking about trying a manual gauge to see what the temp actually is

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Those symptoms point to a thermostat stuck open. Replace it with a genuine Honda thermostat.

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I did replace it

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

With a genuine, OEM Honda unit?

crazyhouse2011

OP in temps like this, with our aluminum blocks, the engines may as well be air cooled.

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

No its a moto rad, i cant get a honda oem one unless i order it, chances are its not gonna make a difference

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

Thats what i was thinkin also, but i thought only the heads were aluminum and the block was cast iron, but its 30 out here today which out here is warm considering the previous weather but without the cardboard in front of the rad it still runs on the cool side, its a little bit above the second mark on the temp gauge, not quite up to the water mark yet, but if i have a peice of cardboard in front of the rad it will hit the water mark thing and stay in the middle

TomCat39

Non OEM thermostats tend to be problematic. Sounds like yours sticks open some.

And the blocks are also aluminum. I can pick up any complete SOHC honda engine by myself as long as the tranny isn't connected. Not the lightest thing but definitely doable due to the light weight materials used.

crazyhouse2011

HOW MUCH DO THEY WEIGH? AND WHAT IS THE TRANSMISSION MADE OUT OF? CAST IRON?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Chances are it is. With very few exceptions, aftermarket thermostats are absolute garbage. Your new thermostat is letting coolant through when it shouldn't be.

Crazyhouse...Google does awesome things. https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/settle-h22-vs-b-series-weight-arguement-i-bring-you-pics-684550/

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

K well ill order one but only one thsts oem or close to oem is gates, i think same as nippon, is this the right one?

xGeNeTiCxFuNkx

I found on rockauto, a gates thermostat 180 degree they sldo have a 170 degree what is stock degree i thought it was 170, and is gates gonna be oem or anyone got a part number?