berrabus

Wellp bought the car because of their reputation for being reliable vehicles. In my infinite wisdom decided driving it like a race car and threw the rod right through the bottom of the block. 2 junkyard motor pulls later I found a good motor... Now mind you Im not a mechanic Im an autobody tech whose been in the industry for 8+ years so Im not running blind just not fully informed. Hours upon hours of research and preperation later I decided I was prepared to do my FIRST motor swap completely by myself. 3 days later I have the motor in and running (mainly due to initial motor issues and return issues or it would have been aprox a day and a half).

With the motor running smoothly at Idle I feel much more confident in my ability however I have some concerns and was hoping the community here would be able to help me out...

1: I broke the plastic connector at the top of the breather under the intake that goes from this black box to the top of the intake. Im not sure if this is actually a breather as Im not a mechanic. Its a black box that bolts via 2x10mm bolts to the block and has a gasket that rests in the block where it appears filter oil in some manner... I will replace it when I can but the car needs to drive out of there soon and I dont have time at this moment was concerned on the importance of this part.

2: After wiring the harness I discovered I found a place for ... just about everything lol. There are two circular connectors that I cant seem to find a home for on the passanger side near the distributor near the coolant lines. After starting and running the motor they didnt seem to affect it and Im under the impression that maybe their involved with the AC since I removed the compressor entirely as it didnt work in the first place.

3: The motor turns and fires right up no problems, and sounds and runs beautiful at idle. However when you hit the gas it seems to bog a bit unless you feather it a few times then it seems to pick up. Almost as though its either not getting enough air, running rich or even as if its running out of gas. A motor swap I assisted with on a 02 Saturn did the same thing until it ran for a couple hours burning off sediment and water in the motor and moving the fluids around Im thinking perhaps this is the same issue...

Considering this is my first motor swap done by myself to only have these 3 issues Im a bit proud lol however Im going down there tomorrow and placing the cv axles back replacing a ball joing and attempting to drive out of there. Any input on these issues here guys?

HondaPartsHero

Check engine light on? If so pull them and post.

Take GOOD pictures of the connectors and post them.

berrabus

Here are a couple photos and a video of what its doing... I took a picture of the two connectors I cant seem to find a home for (I know the intake is currently disconnected, the issue is the same regardless of the intake being connected). Also when I first started it, it was running a little rough but then let it idle for about an hour or so and began to run incredibly better all the way up until I sprung a coolant leak which is more then likely due to a loose clamp so Im not concerned about that I can narrow that down myself.

Pictures:



In this picture theres a bolt in place of... well idk what its in place of just that it was leaking coolant when added to the radiator so I just plugged it for now...



Video

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

Where the bolt is, there should be a coolant temp sensor. One of the two prong connectors might be the plug to it. It also looks like you have the wrong plug plugged into the rad fan switch on the thermostat. Should be a green and black wire, not yellow.
The black box is crankcase ventilation, the pcv "plugs" into it, it is necessary.

berrabus

That appears to be the only connector that fits there on the intake with the black and yellow wires... I intend on replacing the unit in the black box however I need to get the car out of there by days end tomorrow

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You were asked if the CEL was on. You opted to skip over that very important question. If you're going to make a habit of that, we won't be able to help you. Is the CEL on? Does it work?

gnxpro24

iTrader: (1)

The thermostat is not the intake...

berrabus

Yes the cel is on it was on before for o2 sensor I don't have access to my obd until tomorrow

berrabus

Yea its been a long day in the cold rain and like I said I'm not a mechanic I'm actually shocked I have it running at all... I was looking at the picture and imaged the disconnected intake and thought he was referring to that sorry I'll see if I can't get one of those wires to connect to the stat however the car after an hour of idle did not overheat

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You don't need a code reader. Jump the harness, and read the blink codes. A how-to can be found in the FAQ sticky.

berrabus

Yeah... I read that there is much to large a margin of error for someone inexperienced as myself I'd much rather use my obd why pay all that for one and not use it... I'll see if my friend will come down with his tonight if not I'll have access to mine first thing in the morning

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

...Much too large a margin for error when reading blink codes? I don't know where you're getting your car "advice", but you should stop. There's no margin for error. Can you count to 10? OK, you can count blink codes.

berrabus

Listen man I appreciate you trying to help but being insulting and condescending isn't getting anyone anywhere I read the sticky and you mean to tell me if there's 4 or 5 codes which equals 50 digits of blinks there is absolutely no way to miss one and miss read a code? Guess everyone must be perfect huh? Also its 7:45 pm at night which would mean I would have to drive 30 mins there and back to read blink codes vs waiting until morning run an obd get exact information without hastle... ifiI'm going out to the car its going to be for more then reading codes like perhaps testing the throttle positioning sensor which you could have suggested rather then be an ***.. oh well ty n e way if you have something constructive to say then ty and I will look into it first thing if not don't waste mine or your time

berrabus

Can someone tell me what color the wires on the harness are for the tps and maps?

HondaPartsHero

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...guide-3146770/

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Insulting and condescending? I'm no where near that. I'm about to be, though. If you are incapable of reading blink codes, you shouldn't be working on a car. It's even easier than doing your own oil change. It is literally diagnostics 101. While we're talking about diagnostics 101, when you're on this forum, you're expected to put in at least a modicum of effort. Considering that you obviously didn't even search, you obviously haven't done that.

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...olors-2864291/

Stop being lazy. Answer questions and do the work, and we'll be able to help you get your car fixed with a quickness. Try to get snappy, fail to answer questions, and show your ***, and the only people helping you will be the idiots who couldn't tell a torque wrench from a breaker bar.

berrabus

There's a difference between a torque wrench and breaker bar? Lol attitude aside ty I tried searching my phone is currently not agreeing with me at the moment... I should have access to a computer soon

berrabus

OK got that All written down I'll switch up the plugs for the thermo fan switch tps and maps clear the codes and see what I have tomorrow thanks notaracist

HondaPartsHero

Be careful when switching plugs around aimlessly, some connectors send battery voltage to the ECU and vice versa that can damage ECU components and/or sensors. Check the thread I posted above and match all the colors and connectors up properly.

doctorake

I would wait and either jump the harness or pull the codes with a scanner. Find out what the actual CEL is for and work from there man.

berrabus

Sorry for the delayed response as it turned out it was a swap on the TPS and MAPS sensors once I swapped them I realized I was missing a temp sensor in the front and the oil pressure sensor was not hooked up. Regardless after switching those out it ran fine except for it would rev at idle to about 2k rpms periodically which I believe is the IAC since it needs a new gasket its not to alarming. Thanks everyone for all the input and help!

Former User

Thanks for updating!