grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I guess. I'm not a swap expert. More to the point I'm not an expert in getting around emissions. But as you say, such tricks could have easily been found using a swift search, as usual.

Nando-tech

Thanks man, I needed the help in that situation too. Thanks for the help guys

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Multiple A04 revs, which are USDM ITR ECUs.

And yes, if they do any kind of sniffer, it still matters. Also, it's pretty obvious that OP has no intention of having his car professionally tuned. Basemaps are to take your car to the tuner on - not to DD with. Since he obviously has no plans on tuning it, he would be better served with an OEM ITR ECU anyway.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

There were like....1500? Or something USDM OBD2A ITRs ever made.

You're telling me you found 3 ECU's from said cars? Meaning 3 people who had an extremely rare car said "meh...don't want this ECU anymore". And you found those 3 people in 5mins?

I'm positive you won't reply.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Links? Buy 3 lottery tickets. One for every ECU you found.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Did you even try, or are you just arguing for the sake of arguing?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Acura-Integra-Type-R-Vtec-B18c5-37820-P73-A04-ECU-/121517304121?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c4afee939&vxp=mtr
Sit down, school's in session.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

A04's aren't OBD2A. That ECU in the link isn't OBD2A.

If it were, it would be like 2X that price because nobody has one...and if someone has one, they probably don't want to sell it and/or they stole it from someone else.



I'm arguing because I'm always right.

Since you are having this discussion with me...hopefully you know the problem with using an OBD2B Integra ECU.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

While you are correct that you *could* fail a sniffer test if a B18C5 was being run on a D series ECU....it's not a sure thing. You'd fail for NOx if you did fail.

It'd have to be a pretty narrow window to fail NOx with a P72, however. They don't test for emissions at full throttle. I think you could even squeak by with a EM1 ECU.

OP didn't say anything about a sniffer test, though. I don't believe they do that in TN. The guy who bought my ITR (and then sold it back to me later) lived in TN. I believe he just had to pass the plug in test.

I'm also not arguing that he'd be better off with a P73 USDM OBD2A ECU. I'd be better off if I had the a photographic memory, could beat up 1990's Mike Tyson, had 50 billion dollars, had the ability to make diamonds by winking at cabbages, AND looked as good as I look now (which is ******* amazing all by itself omg).

The problem is GETTING said ECU.

Even if he could find said ECU, the cost vs. benefit is not there. He could buy a P72 or P75 to pass emissions for the cost of dryer lint. Then he could either buy a JDM ITR ECU or a tuneable ECU for the cost of 2 dryer lints.

I'm being logical. I've done these swaps before, quite a few times. I live in a state, in a populated enough area, that they do emissions.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

And there's no reason why an A04/C04 wouldn't work for the OP. Yes, it would have the immobilizer, but there are ways to remove that without throwing a CEL, legitimate ways to properly bypass it with the dealership, and even people who will do the work for you.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

From what I've read, a GSR ECU would throw a soft code (no CEL, just a warning when scanned, not a failing offense) for the IABs, but could reasonably run the ITR.

Eh, there are ways around it. I just don't see the point in hacking around it just to pass, so the OP can run a basemap'd ECU that he's never going to have properly tuned.

Also, lol just found two G03 ECU's. That's German, but since Canadian ECUs work for emissions testing, there's a possibility that a German ECU would as well. And it's OBD2A. And it doesn't have an immo. Problem solved.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I don't believe there would be a code for IAB's. But if it did...a P75 would be an even cheaper solution to that issue.

A JDM ITR ECU is probably his best bet to run the car normally (not for emissions). The 8700RPM rev limiter is a nice bonus. The 110mph speed limiter sucks if you're at a track with a big enough straight to get an almost stock ITR powered civic to 110mph. You can find them for like $125-150 all over the dang place.

I'd recommend a tuneable ECU. But...he's likely not going to tune anything. I wouldn't run some mystery basemap, sans proper tune.

If he wants ONE ecu to run the car and do emissions and not have the 110mph limit...he could go with an A04 with a defeated IMM. Or he could find a OBD2A P73 (A03?) and just be ready to fork over time to do the search...and the trillions of dollars that the owner will gouge him for. Also....he has to be able to accept the fact that he's almost surely buying a stolen part

After owning an ITR and getting cozy with a bunch of ITR guys....they're very unlikely to sell their ultra rare and coveted OBD2A USDM P73. I know I sure as hell wouldn't sell one.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yep, A02/A03 is the USDM OBD2A ITR, C02/C03 is the CDM OBD2A ITR, G02/G03 is the GDM (EDM?) OBD2A ITR, and 002/003 is the JDM OBD2A ITR.

If it weren't for emissions testings, the 002/003 would be the easy choice.

sportsman1539

Back to the revving issue, if you put another base map in the ecu with a known 8400 redline and you're still showing it redlining at 7k, then your tach is probably off. When I pulled my itr swap and ecu out of my da into my eg, i was hitting rev limiter at just over 7k. Also my vtec was hitting at 4700 in the eg and 5300 in the da. Hooked up my friends s300 and lap top and found out my tach was way off.

98ekb18c

I've been running an OBD2A p72 for 5 years on my GSR swap with a junk2 intake manifold. I've never once gotten a code for IABs. Should work fine for plug in testing, it does in NY.

Nando-tech

The car seems to like 2 step or launch control sound at 7k and I've tried both chips/basemap. But I did the paper clip method to get the cel codes and there are two, a 41 and 22. But then the ssr (since I'm missing an airbag it's on), it started to blink too, and I believe it's a 10 and a 1.

Nando-tech

Anybody?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

What part of "a basemap is only meant to get you to a tuner" are you not getting? Either get a stock ECU to run the car, or take it to a tuner and let them do their job. Keep trying to rev it out on a basemap, and see how long your motor lasts.

Nando-tech

I have two basemaps. I tried both, they both do the same. Y'all told me to check the cel codes, those are it, why are they being thrown and how can I fix that? I have a virgin p28, do you think I can try that to see if it revs over 7k to see if it's my ecu ?

sportsman1539

O2 sensor and vtec pressure switch are your codes. Your vtec pressure switch code is probably because your motor doesn't have one but your basemap is programmed for one. Another reason to take your car to a tuner so he can delete it through the ecu.

Nando-tech

A friend of mine has one off of a b16, could that fix that problem? But do you think any of those cels, are the reason for it not revving over? And can I try that p28 just to see if it revs over?

sportsman1539

Yea that's exactly why you can't rev out. Your vtec solenoid does not have a spot for a pressure switch. It's blocked off. And no a p28 will not allow you to rev out. First off the rev limiter on a p28 is like 7200 and you're gonna get the same two cel because a p28 will be looking for a vtec pressure switch.

Look you need to take it to a tuner. If you don't wanna pay for a tune, at least get a more customized base map from a tuner. He's probably tuned dozens of itr and has something to get you in the ball park with your mods. He can delete the o2 sensor and vtec pressure switch so you won't be throwing any cel. Its always a good idea to get a legit dyno tune but a good tuner could get you a decent and safe basemap to get you going until you decide to get tuned.

Edit, yes you can install a vtec pressure switch but you have to change the whole vtec solenoid.

Nando-tech

Like take the three bolts part and a install the b16 one? Is that the whole solenoid?

sportsman1539

Yea but do you have a plug for the vtec pressure switch on your engine harness?

You also need to fix your o2 sensor

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Dude.

Your ECU is in charge of the REV limiter and CEL's. Remember?

You cannot use a virgin P28 because that will set the rev limiter at 7200 and you will be running that engine EXTREMELY lean.

Does your VTEC work currently? I would guess not.

Why don't you try getting a stock JDM ITR ECU?

Nando-tech

My harness has the plug for the pressure switch, I just got a solenoid off of a 99-00 b16 that has it, which I will be installing. And what would be the reason for the o2 sensor? I used to get the cel code for that when I was running a z6, the dude I bought it from said it was cause it looked for a second one but the p28 is obd1?
And I would try getting one but kind of on a budget till I get a better job, I'm only 16
I won't be using the p28 at all, I was just wondering lol