95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
05-25-2015, 09:13 AM
#101
Fish Twig
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re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
That is correct.
More information (yes, it is all relevant.. better to put it out there than have everyone uninformed, so we can talk about how to proceed. Yes, I want to keep this car.) Backstory: During my last test drive, the tank was "about half full" and had been for a little more than a month. So, I filled the tank to full.. regular gas. It was about 10 minutes after this that the car STALLED on the road.. strange. Pushed it into spot on the corner. Crankcrankcrank.. I left it alone after a couple minutes of realizing "nope, won't start back up." Walked home a block away. Came back with multimeter, to test for readings as to what could possibly be going on.. tried it, car started right up. Weird.
Then the car went in driveway, my garage/room doubles as my "shop bay" - tools, computer, chair, food, water, shade, electricity, everything. Just as long as I don't stain driveway or sidewalk. Anyways.. Starts randomly starting/not. Starts then DIES right after.. 3rd time, just Crankcrankcrank. Ok. (*This also a large part of why sitting in my driveway.)
Now, it's back to its old tricks.. crankcrankcrank.. no start.
Getting beat over the head (lovingly, not saying that snarky) for compression tester yielded a good course in how to do it right. Is it possible for a cylinder to have TOO high compression? .. Maybe the gauge "broke.." It still works, but I don't want to have to subtract 25 or 30 from the number. So maybe ill keep that to use on a "problem cylinder" in future engines, and get another.. and yeah now it wont start.
Likely some kin d of fuel issue since I cant replicate fuel spraying at the nut..
Also:
- Water pump needs replacing, I have video of water peeing from behind pulley.
- Yes, I know Timing Belt same time.
- Wondering about this Fuel Pump. Already know power going to pump is suspect.
- Flat tire.
I also see a D16Z6 "complete engine" in Bergen with supposedly only 130k miles on it for $300. But, taking the head off.. I highly suspect I blew a Head Gasket before this car ever got to my garage/driveway, and I did not have the resources I now have.
And no, I am not gonna get rid of this car! Keeping the Honda. This car in such demand people steal it...
So. How do we go forward?
Sincerely, - Joseph
And Happy Memorial Day!
More information (yes, it is all relevant.. better to put it out there than have everyone uninformed, so we can talk about how to proceed. Yes, I want to keep this car.) Backstory: During my last test drive, the tank was "about half full" and had been for a little more than a month. So, I filled the tank to full.. regular gas. It was about 10 minutes after this that the car STALLED on the road.. strange. Pushed it into spot on the corner. Crankcrankcrank.. I left it alone after a couple minutes of realizing "nope, won't start back up." Walked home a block away. Came back with multimeter, to test for readings as to what could possibly be going on.. tried it, car started right up. Weird.
Then the car went in driveway, my garage/room doubles as my "shop bay" - tools, computer, chair, food, water, shade, electricity, everything. Just as long as I don't stain driveway or sidewalk. Anyways.. Starts randomly starting/not. Starts then DIES right after.. 3rd time, just Crankcrankcrank. Ok. (*This also a large part of why sitting in my driveway.)
Now, it's back to its old tricks.. crankcrankcrank.. no start.
Getting beat over the head (lovingly, not saying that snarky) for compression tester yielded a good course in how to do it right. Is it possible for a cylinder to have TOO high compression? .. Maybe the gauge "broke.." It still works, but I don't want to have to subtract 25 or 30 from the number. So maybe ill keep that to use on a "problem cylinder" in future engines, and get another.. and yeah now it wont start.
Likely some kin d of fuel issue since I cant replicate fuel spraying at the nut..
Also:
- Water pump needs replacing, I have video of water peeing from behind pulley.
- Yes, I know Timing Belt same time.
- Wondering about this Fuel Pump. Already know power going to pump is suspect.
- Flat tire.
I also see a D16Z6 "complete engine" in Bergen with supposedly only 130k miles on it for $300. But, taking the head off.. I highly suspect I blew a Head Gasket before this car ever got to my garage/driveway, and I did not have the resources I now have.
And no, I am not gonna get rid of this car! Keeping the Honda. This car in such demand people steal it...
So. How do we go forward?
Sincerely, - Joseph
And Happy Memorial Day!
The first hint I'll give you is that you did the compression test with the ecu fused not pulled and the distributor not unplugged. All revelant information is in the sticky, or you can continue troubleshooting your way.
05-25-2015, 09:35 AM
#102
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
You have a crank, no start issue. What has been the procedure for that situation? You've been here long enough to know what to look for.
The first hint I'll give you is that you did the compression test with the ecu fused not pulled and the distributor not unplugged. All revelant information is in the sticky, or you can continue troubleshooting your way.
The first hint I'll give you is that you did the compression test with the ecu fused not pulled and the distributor not unplugged. All revelant information is in the sticky, or you can continue troubleshooting your way.
I feel like I should get It to start before I test the block (duh) before I go pulling the head..
05-26-2015, 08:07 PM
#107
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Hey... Just give me a little time.. I will figure out what is what, read a little more about that relay topic, etc. My friend said that I am on the wrong wire in those videos.
05-28-2015, 12:41 PM
#108
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
You have a crank, no start issue. What has been the procedure for that situation? You've been here long enough to know what to look for.
The first hint I'll give you is that you did the compression test with the ecu fused not pulled and the distributor not unplugged. All revelant information is in the sticky, or you can continue troubleshooting your way.
The first hint I'll give you is that you did the compression test with the ecu fused not pulled and the distributor not unplugged. All revelant information is in the sticky, or you can continue troubleshooting your way.
05-28-2015, 03:04 PM
#110
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Work is also picking up so I may let this thread lie somewhat dormant before I again come back.. car sitting in driveway.. If anyone was wondering why I'm not posting with regularity. Am still here.
05-29-2015, 04:48 AM
#111
Fish Twig
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Still hunting that foo up there
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Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
For the No Start, I am presently reading up on the full operation of the Main Relay, and seeing if I have a full understanding of how it works before I continue with back-probing and seeing if I have power going to the pump. I believe that if I can confirm I have power going to the pump, and yet no fuel pressure, that the pump is dead. Also: Worth nothing that the car was out of service for about two weeks once.. over a non-powered fuel pump wire. So, I'm reading as much as possible before I continue.
Work is also picking up so I may let this thread lie somewhat dormant before I again come back.. car sitting in driveway.. If anyone was wondering why I'm not posting with regularity. Am still here.
Work is also picking up so I may let this thread lie somewhat dormant before I again come back.. car sitting in driveway.. If anyone was wondering why I'm not posting with regularity. Am still here.
06-01-2015, 05:19 PM
#112
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: So I got stuck with a D15y8..
Great thread. Reading it gives me some information, and some questions. If I may add, as one gaining knowledge of the Honda engines:
1. It seems the engine codes went from "D1xZx" ending in 1995 and starting in 1996 to "D1xYx" -- example: D16Z6 would have been a 1995 engine, and D16Y8 would be 1996 forward. Z to Y. Is this correct?
2. It was mentioned that a Y8 head will be good on any block "Except for the HX." And the D15Z1 was out of an HX.. not an LX or DX.. with its "VTEC-E" - in other words, that a 16V Y8 head will NOT work on a D15Z1 BLOCK? .. Is this correct or incorrect? (Also that there are oil differences but will/can it work)
3. That a "Mini-me" engine is a Y8 head on a 1.5L block.. since the Y8 appears to be from the 1.6L engine. Again.. correct or incorrect?
4. That ANY of these swaps with a bigger head are GREAT for Turbo, perhaps in addition to other mods.
5.
Z1 = 1.5L; 1995 and before (*I HAVE A D15Z1)
Z6 = 1.6L; 1995 and before (really good engine)
Y7 = 1.5L; 1996 and later. (?)
Y8 = 1.6L; 16v (?) and 1996 and later (?) - and that can go on the other heads.. perhaps except for D15Z1. (??)
I seem to be in a pretty good spot.. I have a P28 ECU in my car (probably because my car started life as a D16Z6 EX EJ1.) I have the EX trans - probably because my car started life as a D16Z6 EX EJ1. AND.. I am slowly but surely getting to the place of getting the head off my car.. since I have a blown HG and I get to clean it up (more,) put on a MLS HG, and.. maybe even go with another head. (I hear some even change the pistons on the D for GREAT power.)
^^ Thank you.
***presently reading https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...oodbye-554053/ and while I see the warning about "DON'T DO THIS ON A VX" .. There is another school of thought that says that this makes it PERFECT for a Turbo. ? Sooo.. Let's chime in.
1. It seems the engine codes went from "D1xZx" ending in 1995 and starting in 1996 to "D1xYx" -- example: D16Z6 would have been a 1995 engine, and D16Y8 would be 1996 forward. Z to Y. Is this correct?
2. It was mentioned that a Y8 head will be good on any block "Except for the HX." And the D15Z1 was out of an HX.. not an LX or DX.. with its "VTEC-E" - in other words, that a 16V Y8 head will NOT work on a D15Z1 BLOCK? .. Is this correct or incorrect? (Also that there are oil differences but will/can it work)
3. That a "Mini-me" engine is a Y8 head on a 1.5L block.. since the Y8 appears to be from the 1.6L engine. Again.. correct or incorrect?
4. That ANY of these swaps with a bigger head are GREAT for Turbo, perhaps in addition to other mods.
5.
Z1 = 1.5L; 1995 and before (*I HAVE A D15Z1)
Z6 = 1.6L; 1995 and before (really good engine)
Y7 = 1.5L; 1996 and later. (?)
Y8 = 1.6L; 16v (?) and 1996 and later (?) - and that can go on the other heads.. perhaps except for D15Z1. (??)
I seem to be in a pretty good spot.. I have a P28 ECU in my car (probably because my car started life as a D16Z6 EX EJ1.) I have the EX trans - probably because my car started life as a D16Z6 EX EJ1. AND.. I am slowly but surely getting to the place of getting the head off my car.. since I have a blown HG and I get to clean it up (more,) put on a MLS HG, and.. maybe even go with another head. (I hear some even change the pistons on the D for GREAT power.)
^^ Thank you.
***presently reading https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...oodbye-554053/ and while I see the warning about "DON'T DO THIS ON A VX" .. There is another school of thought that says that this makes it PERFECT for a Turbo. ? Sooo.. Let's chime in.
06-01-2015, 05:34 PM
#113
D15Y8
So first off, please don't bump a 6 year old, dead thread, especially when all of your questions are covered n the FAQ sticky.
1 - Yes and no. Yes, the D16Z's ran from 92-95 in the 'States, but there were also other engines (specifically, the D15B2 and D15B7, among others).
2 - There's nothing stopping you from putting a Z6 or Y8 head on an HX block. Literally nothing. All 92-00 D series engines are cross-compatible when it comes to head swaps.
3 - It doesn't have to be a Y8 head. Any VTEC head on any non-VTEC block can be considered a "mini me".
4 - No. The D15 engines are all a horrible starting platform for boost. They all have their own problems - some have pencil-thin rods, some have horribly flowing heads. If you want to boost, start off with a 1.6L or dual cam platform. You'll thank yourself in the future.
5 - Literally all of this information is easily found on Wikipedia. Also, it's not just "and before" or "and after." Different engines ran between different years, but generally they line up with chassis years - 92-95, and 96-00. 01+ D series engines are completely different, though, and for the most part not even remotely compatible.
In short, the FAQ sticky is your friend. You should read it.
1 - Yes and no. Yes, the D16Z's ran from 92-95 in the 'States, but there were also other engines (specifically, the D15B2 and D15B7, among others).
2 - There's nothing stopping you from putting a Z6 or Y8 head on an HX block. Literally nothing. All 92-00 D series engines are cross-compatible when it comes to head swaps.
3 - It doesn't have to be a Y8 head. Any VTEC head on any non-VTEC block can be considered a "mini me".
4 - No. The D15 engines are all a horrible starting platform for boost. They all have their own problems - some have pencil-thin rods, some have horribly flowing heads. If you want to boost, start off with a 1.6L or dual cam platform. You'll thank yourself in the future.
5 - Literally all of this information is easily found on Wikipedia. Also, it's not just "and before" or "and after." Different engines ran between different years, but generally they line up with chassis years - 92-95, and 96-00. 01+ D series engines are completely different, though, and for the most part not even remotely compatible.
In short, the FAQ sticky is your friend. You should read it.
06-01-2015, 05:36 PM
#114
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: So I got stuck with a D15y8..
So first off, please don't bump a 6 year old, dead thread, especially when all of your questions are covered n the FAQ sticky.
1 - Yes and no. Yes, the D16Z's ran from 92-95 in the 'States, but there were also other engines (specifically, the D15B2 and D15B7, among others).
2 - There's nothing stopping you from putting a Z6 or Y8 head on an HX block. Literally nothing. All 92-00 D series engines are cross-compatible when it comes to head swaps.
3 - It doesn't have to be a Y8 head. Any VTEC head on any non-VTEC block can be considered a "mini me".
4 - No. The D15 engines are all a horrible starting platform for boost. They all have their own problems - some have pencil-thin rods, some have horribly flowing heads. If you want to boost, start off with a 1.6L or dual cam platform. You'll thank yourself in the future.
5 - Literally all of this information is easily found on Wikipedia. Also, it's not just "and before" or "and after." Different engines ran between different years, but generally they line up with chassis years - 92-95, and 96-00. 01+ D series engines are completely different, though, and for the most part not even remotely compatible.
In short, the FAQ sticky is your friend. You should read it.
1 - Yes and no. Yes, the D16Z's ran from 92-95 in the 'States, but there were also other engines (specifically, the D15B2 and D15B7, among others).
2 - There's nothing stopping you from putting a Z6 or Y8 head on an HX block. Literally nothing. All 92-00 D series engines are cross-compatible when it comes to head swaps.
3 - It doesn't have to be a Y8 head. Any VTEC head on any non-VTEC block can be considered a "mini me".
4 - No. The D15 engines are all a horrible starting platform for boost. They all have their own problems - some have pencil-thin rods, some have horribly flowing heads. If you want to boost, start off with a 1.6L or dual cam platform. You'll thank yourself in the future.
5 - Literally all of this information is easily found on Wikipedia. Also, it's not just "and before" or "and after." Different engines ran between different years, but generally they line up with chassis years - 92-95, and 96-00. 01+ D series engines are completely different, though, and for the most part not even remotely compatible.
In short, the FAQ sticky is your friend. You should read it.
And, good answers. Are B2 and B7 JDM engines?
In my case.. I have the exhaust manifold almost off. I notice one thing as I go thing by thing on the engine: It always turns out to be "kind of easy." And I read guides, which present the same information, different ways.. And, eventually, I get it. I read and can put it all together after seeing it a few, or more than a few times, and.. voila, I am prepared to take the top of the engine off. And yes, I would LOVE to put on a different head, make it faster.. because "why do it twice." Since I don't trust the head I have anymore. VTEC no longer engaging.. etc etc. It needs a good flushing, a nice layer of white slime in my intake tube.. flush, flush, flush to remedy. All chemicals, since straight water is easy but not enough. So I feel optimistic on my Honda repair, before I go on to my S10 Blazer.
We're getting there.
.. but why do we not want old threads bumped ?
06-01-2015, 06:24 PM
#118
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
your d15z1 opens one valve under vtec (the second BARELY opens to prevent pooled fuel), and then opens both intakes valves after vtec engagement. it has very a very small cam designed to provide adequate torque and minimal horsepower and excellent fuel economy. For it to work right it needs the correct ecu and correct intake manifold (the correct manifold has an egr valve that is computer controlled).
Your ecu is pumping fuel out to what it thinks is a 1.6 liter engine that is opening both valves under vtec, then going to higher lift on the intake side after vtec engagement. in other words it is running excessively rich and likely to be difficult to start and have weird running issues such as stalling easily and flooding out when the plugs get fouled badly.
Add to that the failed water pump and overheated engine that likely cause a loss of headgasket seal on the #4 cylinder....
Your ecu is pumping fuel out to what it thinks is a 1.6 liter engine that is opening both valves under vtec, then going to higher lift on the intake side after vtec engagement. in other words it is running excessively rich and likely to be difficult to start and have weird running issues such as stalling easily and flooding out when the plugs get fouled badly.
Add to that the failed water pump and overheated engine that likely cause a loss of headgasket seal on the #4 cylinder....
06-03-2015, 07:34 AM
#119
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
your d15z1 opens one valve under vtec (the second BARELY opens to prevent pooled fuel), and then opens both intakes valves after vtec engagement. it has very a very small cam designed to provide adequate torque and minimal horsepower and excellent fuel economy. For it to work right it needs the correct ecu and correct intake manifold (the correct manifold has an egr valve that is computer controlled).
Your ecu is pumping fuel out to what it thinks is a 1.6 liter engine that is opening both valves under vtec, then going to higher lift on the intake side after vtec engagement. in other words it is running excessively rich and likely to be difficult to start and have weird running issues such as stalling easily and flooding out when the plugs get fouled badly.
Add to that the failed water pump and overheated engine that likely cause a loss of headgasket seal on the #4 cylinder....
Your ecu is pumping fuel out to what it thinks is a 1.6 liter engine that is opening both valves under vtec, then going to higher lift on the intake side after vtec engagement. in other words it is running excessively rich and likely to be difficult to start and have weird running issues such as stalling easily and flooding out when the plugs get fouled badly.
Add to that the failed water pump and overheated engine that likely cause a loss of headgasket seal on the #4 cylinder....
I think I may have to remove entire Air Conditioner assembly to get to those last two bolts...
06-03-2015, 03:47 PM
#121
GDD's Resident Derp
Thread Starter
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
Lower two on exhaust manifold. I *almost* am to them. They should come off pretty easy with the heat and the hammered-on 7/16"...
So, I went and got a 10mm socket just now. Half hour ago. I not have the AC condenser fan "halfway up" .. It is "stuck" halfway up..
I *almost" got that fan up and out of the way. It is halfway up and doesn't want to come all the way out....
I should be able to get exhaust manifold off kinda easy when I get it all the way up...
It's "STUCK" any tips??
So, I went and got a 10mm socket just now. Half hour ago. I not have the AC condenser fan "halfway up" .. It is "stuck" halfway up..
I *almost" got that fan up and out of the way. It is halfway up and doesn't want to come all the way out....
I should be able to get exhaust manifold off kinda easy when I get it all the way up...
It's "STUCK" any tips??
06-03-2015, 05:08 PM
#123
Sol to Sol
Re: 95 EJ1 has a D15Z1 not D16Z6 and it has issues
spray it with PB Blaster inbetween heating it. Soak a few hrs or overnight and heat it again and it should come off.
Also, 7/16ths?? DUDE, get a $20 set of metric sockets and wrenches at least. But if you wanna go cheap, you can get away with 10,12,14,17,19 for most jobs. 8,15 later.
Also, 7/16ths?? DUDE, get a $20 set of metric sockets and wrenches at least. But if you wanna go cheap, you can get away with 10,12,14,17,19 for most jobs. 8,15 later.