accord2civic2prelude

Recently started after trying out chipped p28 for gsr. Ran amazing until one day it started hesitating. Now once I try to start, it fires right up, idles goes to about 1500 then drops to below 500 and dies withing 10 sec. It does this twice, then the third time, it stays running. Idle still below 500(just above the second line about 0) then it starts leveling out around 750.

It'll idle fine for about 2-3 mins then drop to just about second line and shakes/lopes like its cammed, then goes back normal. As long as I accelerate slowly at take off it does fine. Even with my stock p72 it does it. Once warmed up and accelerating in first, it bucks and then catches and same thing for 2nd. 3rd-5th its ok until cel comes on around vtec engagement(4500rpm) for knock sensor(23) and then here come the dead spots in any gear. I can be around 2800 in 3rd-5th and slowly press thottle to WOT not happens for a good 6-7 seconds. I turn ign off then back on to clear knock sensor and back to "normal"

So far, I've changed:
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
FPR
Injectors
IAT sensor
ECT sensor
TW sensor
Main relay
Cap and rotor
plugs and wires
IACV

Ive checked/tested(OHM and Volts)
injectors
Injector clips
TPS-.46 Closed and 4.5 WOT
MAP sensor
Coil and igniter

Only think I haven't gotten to yet is the FITV, but once warmed up with intake off, i cover fitv hole(bottom one) and no sucking. I cover IACV hole and car bogs then eventually dies. I've adjusted the idle screw on top of TB with IACV unplugged, no different.

What confusing me is that once I get the CEL for knock sensor, thats when the dead spots come. But I cant figure out the low/shaking idle

Someone help...My mind has gone off the deep end trying to figure this out. I need a fresh brain. Any questions please ask.

Side note: would exhaust leak before o2 cause this? without a CEL?

Sorry for the long post, just trying to get as much info posted as possible.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Trying to figure out why you haven't fixed all the deficiencies prior to posting.

accord2civic2prelude

What deficiencies are you referring too?

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You asked about an exhaust leak. You wouldn't ask about that if you didn't have one. Knock sensor code that you keep resetting. The VTEC CEL. Ron will be along to ask more specific electrical questions and how you performed these tests.

accord2civic2prelude

Never said there was a CEL for vtec. Knock sensor CEL comes on around VTEC engagement(4500). VTEC still engages but kicks CEL 23 on. The exhaust leak has always been there since i bought the car. Never really bothered me until now. Which is the wrong answer i know and needs to be fixed. Knock sensor has been there also since i bought the car. The previous owner used a 2 wire connector instead of a 1 wire, thats why i comes on. Its like its grounding itself out when vtec engages, crossover is loud as hell

accord2civic2prelude

bump

tony_2018

Than fix it with the correct sensor and plug. It's not something you should ignore.

What procedures did you use to check your list? List all procedures.

accord2civic2prelude

Thanks for the reply, but honestly the KS is my least worry. Its been doing it since day one and never affected driveability.

All procedures are straight from Integra Service Manual 1994, word for word.

Here you go:

*Coil-resistance bewtwwen + and - terminal is 0.7ohms; from secondary and + its 16.5kohms(ignition switch off)
*ICM-Voltage-12v from blk/ylw wire and ground; 12v from wht/blu and ground also(ignition on) Replaced it also
*Injectors-12v between A1..A4 and A23 with ignition on
-12.6ohms between male pins
*TPS-5v between yel/blu and grn/wht(swap in a known good one)
*MAP-5v between yel/wht and ground; 5v between ylw/wht and grn/wht(swapped in a known good sensor also

Everything has been changed to either new or known good. Timing(both mechanical and ignition) have been check multiple time, by myself and others