philztheone

Car still at dealer. Replacing distributor housing helps. The car starts but quickly stops running. Dealer is now doing a "full electrical diagnosis".

delsolintegra

You would borrow a ECU from a friend with the same 93-94 civic si automatic.

I got a used ECU P28-A51 for the automatic from a junkyard for $135.

Moisture and humidity get to the capacitors on the ECU circuit board.

These ECU's are now 23 years old. Probably older than the kids working on your car at the dealership.

Nave43

Everything your describing sounds like a bad main relay to me... No fuel pump prime on start, starting then immediately dieing. Resolder your relay its free.

rx7ttlm

If you have a multi meter you can check voltage at the fuel pump to rule out a dead fuel pump.

philztheone

I soldered the fuel pump relay several years ago. The solder still looked good. Since I was running out of time, I swapped out the relay anyway. Still no start and no sound from fuel pump.

Initially, I established battery voltage at the fuel pump's access panel. This along with an earlier post triggered me to replace the pump. I did. Still no sound at fuel pump. Established battery voltage at pump itself.

I suspect a bad ground, possible bad ignition switch, possible bad ECU or ECM.

philztheone

The last I heard from the dealer about a week and a half ago they said they were waiting to get a good ECU so they could test what was wrong. I never heard from them until yesterday when I called them. And they told me that it will cost $1800 to fix my car. They said there is a short in the ignition wiring and that this short has caused the following to burn up because of too much amperage: ignition coil; igniter; distributor housing; and the ECU.

It doesn't make sense. Why didn't they call me sooner with this information?

I don't think they have a clue. I think they spent some hours diagnosing the problem then after a short while gave up, thinking "We'll wait for the owner to call back. When he does we'll tell him it will cost him all this money. He'll say "No way. and he'll tow his car elsewhere off our lot.

What should I do?

Former User

Puzzling question

The options seem so clear cut. Pay $1800 to fix a car worth less than the repair estimate or have the car towed home, to another shop, or to the junkyard.

philztheone

Right. Thanks. Just looking for support. Thanks.

Former User

Is there a technical question left in this thread?

philztheone

Yes. The dealer said the ECM/ECU needs to be replaced, that components were "burnt". If the board looks in reasonable shape does it make sense to "chip it" or otherwise replace the given chip set with what the typical chip kit contains?

Former User

Is some car information missing in your thread? Bone stock Del Sol or engine swap?

delsolintegra

Like I said ECU.
Go to a local junkyard. They have internet connections with other yards and they will locate one for you. For $135 they got me one in 2 days.

Give them the exact part number off the label sticker on the ECU.
Auto and stick ECU's are different.

Chipping it won't help. It's the capacitors that went bad.

philztheone

Bone stock D15B7. Recently did a valve job. 250k. It has been a good running car lately. A slight hesitation with the ignition switch.

Yes, I've heard capacitors blow. Can't I just replace these?

The dealer wants $350 for the diagnosis. But to me they have not diagnosed the problem, they have thrown parts at it (as listed above) and it doesn't start. They tell me it's a short but I think they are guessing. Shouldn't they then be able to tell me where the short is?

I want to tow the car elsewhere, probably my house. But how much if anything is a reasonable amount to pay the dealer for the "full blown electrical diagnosis" they said they would do for a "flat $350" and to get my car?

Thank you all for your help.

tony_2018

You already took it to Honda, theres nothing much a the bb can do from here. If you're asking fair price about electrical diagnosis than I don't think there is one because it really is a pain to diagnose an electrical issue.

philztheone

Honda is no longer interested in working on my car, which is fine. I'm going to tow it elsewhere. I'm asking the board what is a reasonable to pay Honda, if anything?

I made a deal with Honda to pay $350 for a "full electrical" work up and diagnose. They said the problem is a short somewhere but I don't think they really know. What is a reasonable amount to pay Honda to get my car back? Thanks.

Former User

These are not tech questions. Post them in the Value sticky.


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