h9civic3

My ECU is vtec (p28). I think I am going to remove the VTEC controller anyway. What you said, and what I thought, seem to be pretty accurate.

Next question. I jumped my diag plug since the CEL comes on and stays on. It doesn't blink at all. It stays on continuous. This just confirms that I need a new ECU, correct? Again, thanks for all the help.

TomCat39

The CEL is supposed to come on solid when you jump the two pin female service connector.

Or do you mean your CEL is just on solid always regardless if the service connector is jumpered?

h9civic3

When I turn the key on, the CEL is supposed to come one for 2 seconds-ish, while the fuel pump primes, and then go off. Well, the fuel pump doesn't prime and the CEL doesn't go off.

TomCat39

Is your ECU already chipped?

I can't find it, but if the ECU is chipped the Code Zero (solid on) could mean bad chip not necessarily bad ecu even though it can mean bad ecu too. If your ECU isn't chipped then yes, it is supposed to indicate a bad ECU.

h9civic3

Yes it is chipped already. If I take the chip out the CEL should return to normal then? (just to see if its a bad ECU or a bad chip)

TomCat39

His case turned out to be some bad solder joints. But what this means is if you snip the jumper at J1, it takes the chip out of the equation. So if you still have a solid CEL after snipping J1, then the ECU has issues such as bad solder joints or worse.

If you snip J1 and you don't get the CEL, then you have a bad burn or bad solder joints on your zif sockets etc. Also you will have to redo J1 once you dial it all in.

h9civic3

Where is J1? Also, i already know i have a burn spot on the ECU, so thats probably the issue...

TomCat39

I think J1 is near the chip and yeah, the burn spot probably has a large part to play and you need a new ECU, a chip kit, and move your chip over.

h9civic3

I guess if im planning on getting a new ECU anyway, snipping the J1 isn't that big of a deal. And it will tell me for sure if the ECU is bad or the chip is bad. Im putting my money on the ECU...

h9civic3

Ok. So here's the update. I removed the VTEC controller, got a new ECU, checked the t-stat ground wire, did the test on the main relay that was in the Chilton's manual. Everything checked out fine. The fuel pump does not prime. I also checked the connector right before the fuel pump and there is no power. Any advice on what it might be. I have not tried to actually crank the car yet, as it has been sitting for a few years and I wanted to put some oil in the head and turn it by hand to make sure everything is lubricated again. So I don't know if it actually wants to start or not.

Former User

Do not fear the camera - Post many exceptionally clear pictures.

The first step before you do anything else is to ensure that every sensor connector is plugged into the correct sensor. Otherwise, you may keep blowing ECUs.

Do not fear the camera - Post many exceptionally clear pictures.

Do not fear the camera - Post many exceptionally clear pictures.

After you address all points above, check 15A fuses 24 and 31. One or both may be blown.

tony_2018

God damn.....DO NOT FEAR THE CAMERA PHONE W/ 16MP.

h9civic3

lol. all connectors are in proper places now. I checked and rechecked before i connected the new ecu. both fuses mentioned are good. both are getting voltage to both test tabs... sorry i forgot to mention i already did that as well...
also, with the new ECU, the CEL does not stay on as it did before either, which is a good thing. It comes on for two seconds ( as the pump should do) and then goes off.

Former User

^Yet pump does not prime?

Do you still fear the camera?

h9civic3

I can go out and take pictures now. Are there any in specific that would be beneficial at this point? I also tested the MAP sensor voltage and I was only getting 3.7 v on the white wire. The green/yellow wire has 5v.

h9civic3

I just took the main relay out and, even though it tested good, there appears to be a bad solder. I took a picture but for whatever reason it wont upload.

Former User

Click Go Advanced in Edit feature.

Click picture icon.

Drag picture into browser window.

h9civic3

Im doing this from a tablet so I can't drag and drop. However, after further inspection, I noticed a couple more pins that could be resoldered. I just finished soldering. I put the relay back in the car. I have 12v to the fuel pump connector for two seconds now, as I should. (I did not before I soldered the relay.) So far so good. The fuel tank is empty as I knew it would be sitting for a while so I emptied it. My question is: Will the fuel pump still prime if there is no fuel? When I turn the key on, I only here a click from the fuel pump (not the normal sound of a pump picking up fuel). Second question: Is there a way to test the fuel pump? Can I hook it straight to the battery to see if it works, or will that fry something?

DumpdEJ6

As far as I know, running a 12v supply to the fuel pump should have no ill effects. That was what I was going to suggest just to make sure it wasn't your fuel pump not being good. I would imagine that it would still at least try to prime (i.e. run for 2 seconds) even if there isn't fuel. It sounds to me like it could be the fuel pump itself.

h9civic3

Sounds good, I will try that today after work.

I have a new issue. I might need to start a new thread for this one. Let me know what you think. As I mentioned in a previous post, the car has been sitting for a while. When I turned the crank by hand, all the exhaust valves are moving up and down as they should. However, 4 of the intake valves go down but the spring does not push them back up. I would assume the other 4 don't go down because the VTEC is not engaged so I'm not worried about those right at the moment. My concern is with the 4 that go down and take approximately 10-15 minutes to come back up. Should I take the head off and try to oil the vlaves from underneath as well as the top ( I have already put some oil (a few times) on top and let it sit over night)? Or is there a way to where I can just work them from the top so I don't have to take the head off? Any advice would be great. Thanks.

Former User

You can either drag and drop or browse your drive for picture files. Help people help you by posting pictures.

tony_2018

**** man..........where the pictures....

HansDelSolo

The ecu looks bad. Honestly i would pick up a socketed ecu and an ostrich 2.0 from moated and run chrome. Hondata is going to set you back a lot more, and you can pick up a wideband, ostrich 2, hulog for less than the hondata.

h9civic3

Ok. Update. I took the head off, took all the valves out, oiled them, and put it all back together. I tried to turn it over. It cranks but doesn't start. I loosened the nut on top of the fuel filter under the hood to see if I was getting fuel. I am. I checked the spark with a spark tester. I am getting a spark, but it is an orange color. Shouldn't it be blue? If so, what would cause a weak spark? The plugs I am using are NGK BKR7E-4644 gapped at .028. My tuner told be to use NGK BKR7ES-11 4952. The guy at Pep Boys said they are essentially the same. Is he wrong? Are the plugs wrong? Any help is appreciated.

Former User

Spark should be bright white.