Noo_Ish_mee

For those of you who are having the issue of not getting their car to spark heres a list of things of what i ruled out so far or things to check:









Spark Plugs - Make sure they are gapped right and connected properly to the spark plug wires. Check to see if they are getting spark

Spark Plug Wires - Make sure they are connecting the spark plugs to the distributor cap corrrectly and check each wire's resistance (with an vohm meter) make sure its not too high otherwise that can restrict the electrical flow to the plugs

Distributor Cap - Make sure connections with the wires are good. Check inside see if the contacts are not burnt out. Make sure that the rotor is able to make contact with the pins inside the cap.

Rotor -(You get to this by taking apart the distributor cap) Make sure its able to touch each contacts

Ignition Coil (Ignitor) - (Inside the distributor) Do resistance test between the coil's primary contact point and then between the coil positive teminal and to the secondary winding terminal (the spring thing) Make sure they are within factory specs. (Primary 0.6 to 0.8 ohms Secondary 12.8 to 19.8 k-ohms)

Ignition Control Module - (Inside the distributor) This gets confusing... the ICM is the other box thing that DOES NOT have the spring coming out of it but three ***** on front and one on the side. The thing with this one is to check for voltage continuity on the middle **** and the right ****. (Check by using a vohm connecting one pointer to the **** then the other to ground and then same with the other ****) If there is NO voltage then its probably needs to be replaced.

Distributor - If your ignition coil is bad AND your Ignition Control Module is dead might as well get a new distributor or if you got the money or can get one for cheap (But seems rare that both would go out at the same time)

Timing Belt - You might believe this but if your timing belt is snapped your camshaft is not gonna spin and apparently wont allow the distributor to spark (I was told this through a certified acura mechanic) Quick way to test is to open your oil cap and have someone crank the engine. If it spins sweet if not then crap... or you can just remove the valve cover and look

Fuses - Always check the fuses.... The one fuse you should check if the ACG fuse (which is the 15a fuse on the top right corner of the indash fuse box.. It should be next to a 10a fuse in 92-95 honda civic) If the ACG fuse is blown then your ecu wont get anymore thus... not allowing the ecu to send the signal to the distributor

Distributor Connector - On the distributor there should be 2 connectors that lead to the engine wiring harness. One of those connectors should have 2 wires a black/yellow and a blue. While the car is in the on (not running) check for voltage continuity in the black/yellow wire by disconnecting the plug and using an vohm. If theres voltage while the car is on and no voltage when the car is off thats good that means the distributor is getting power.

ECU - Make sure your ecu is getting power... Check i believe its the "A" pinout section and check the black and yellow wire with a vohm make sure its getting a constant voltage... (I could be wrong so check your hanes manuel just to be safe) OR If you have a buddy with a spare ECU thats the same one throw it in there to see if it works (If they dont mind letting you borrow) Its gonna be a pain if the ECU is dead... but if not then sweet


(so far thats what ive tried doing)






The next thing to check out is that the wire between the ecu and distributor got cut or shorted by either a fluke or some kind of small animal got into you car and chewed though it (yes it happens rats get into your car).

So yea... thats my foot note ive made so far.... if it helps sweet, if you have any quetions go ahead and ask

Pothole987

how about checking the freaking ground on the thermostat housing? i can't make a god damn million word post about how everything with power needs a ground to complete the circuit like you did. But yea, check the thermostat housing to make sure your ground is intact and tight,

Noo_Ish_mee

My bad Pothole987 i forgot to add that ^^::

BUT YES POTHOLE987 IS RIGHT (THANKS FOR THE CORRECTION)

also check the thermostat housing ground


Also UPDATE i forgot to mention i got my car rolling again!!! (or well before i made this follow up post ^^:

My problem was the ecu power wire was cut at one point and the underdash fuse was also out

so yea... if you guys need help yea just message

delsolSi_R

i replaced the ignition coil and the igniter and still got no spark and i tried 2 get a new or used distributor but nobody has 1 god *amn it if anybody knows anythin that can help let me know???

Honda gurl 76

hello I seen threads all over with no answers when I had this issue bout month ago 3/18/13!! Okay so my acg fuse would blow as soon as I turn on , no start! I changed many things ecu, ignition cap rotor module, coil pak spark plug battery checked altenator, radio under hood/dash fuses... It is a short!!! That can make anyone loose there mind I even changed the fuel pump!!!! >>>> here's the RESULT N SOULTION N WAT WASSSSSS MY PROBLEM, my brother who was busy at the time finally looked at it, n he changed the fuel pump again NOT JUST THE PUMP LIKE I DID, the whole entire thing : turns out.... The was a short in the actual fuel pump ( no good) he changed it, looked me in the eyes as if ( I'm the snit) n bammm 3 weeks later my car as been running n no more acg fuse dying it took me ( a car clueless girl) 2 months to figure it out tears, frustration mental anger lol honda baby! N these acg fuses threads are all shitty n made me spend money here the pump cost me $40 after all I spent n did : hope it helps many ppl just change the entire fuel pump not just the pump pill!!! GOOOD luck my car 93 eg coupe 1.6

Ersmoot

I have ruled out the fuses, the coil and the ICM, and the Main Relay. I still have no spark when trying to start my 1992 Honda Civic. I have a 1.6L engine. Can anyone give me more info on where to look at this point. It started with no power to fuel pump. found that by jumping relay from 5 to 7 i got power with the key on. Replaced relay and still no power to pump. I tested spark at the plugs and found no spark. The rotor was rusted on so i bought a new distributor and coil and replaced old one. Still no spark. I tested the distributor wires and getting power from the black and yellow wires to distributor. what can i check next and what is the best way to test ECU?

mk378

You should not bump up ancient threads. With that said, turn the key on but don't crank. Watch the lights on the dash. The Check Engine should come on for 2 seconds then go out. The oil and battery should come on and stay on. Do they do that?
If Check Engine comes on and stays on, fuel pump does not prime, and you know the main relay, all the fuses and grounds are good, and the test jumper is not in place, the ECU is probably bad.

TomCat39

Please create your own thread with your car specifics and link this thread as reference for any parts you need clarity on.

Thank you.