Ej6_Sevas

So I have a 2000 HX, with the Vtec-E d16y5 motor. It had the same exhaust manifold/cat combo setup that the y7 has.

i have a stock y8 header and am wanting to use it on my y5, I’ve done a lot of research and it looks like I would only need now an ex cat, and mid pipe that goes after the cat to the muffler, and some o2 extenders. The problem im having is finding out if that would effect the y5 In any way negatively, since it has Vtec-e and has a 5 wire o2 sensor for more precise readings. I know it’s considered an upgrade on the y7 over the stock comb setup, but I can’t find anyone that’s done it on a y5 and still kept Vtec/good gas mileage. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

As for the other AC related question. On the y5, when I turn on the AC while idling, the rpms drop to ~400 and feels like the car is going to die, the compressor or clutch clicks a bunch until I turn the ac off. If I’m driving and in gear the ac works fine and blows cold. What could I check to get this fixed? Texas heat is no joke.

tony_2018

compressor working overtime

Ej6_Sevas

What exactly does that mean? And how can I fix it?

tony_2018

Is the condensor fan running at optimal speed

Ej6_Sevas

So I tried doing a bit of diagnosis before hand to have as much info as I could. I put a pressure gauge on the low end that reads around 70PSI at 90 degrees with the car on. When I turn the car on I see the Compressor pulley spinning, and then I turn the AC on and I can see and hear the compressor turn on for sometimes a few seconds or a minute and then either cuts off and stays off or will turn off and on repeatedly while clicking.




The AC seems to blow coldish while the compressor is on, during the times that it runs for more than a few seconds. And when revving my engine past 1.5k or during normal driving the ac blows coldish and the compressor seems to be working. Any advice on what I could check next would be great, I really don’t want to replace the entire A/C system or any major components since the vehicle has 270k miles. If it’s not an easy fix is it still safe for the car the run the AC only while driving? Probably bogs the engine down a bit though.

muellersfan

Tony alluded to the most common cause for the type of A/C problem you are experiencing.

Does the condenser fan turn on when you press the A/C button? Open the hood and check.

Ej6_Sevas

I hadn’t checked but I don’t believe so I was looking at it earlier today. I got recommend by a lot that it was overcharged and to let out some pressure through The low side, which I did, no refrigerant came out, just gases, and the compressor stayed on, and stayed at 35psi, but no cold air, ended up letting some more air out, and now the gauge reads 0, and the compressor doesn’t come on of course due to low pressure.

muellersfan

Please listen. If the condenser fan does not run, it will lead to the exact symptoms you are experiencing with your A/C.

Run power and ground wires directly from the battery to the unplugged condenser fan connector. Does the condenser fan now run?

Ej6_Sevas

Im listening. I’ll try it once I get off work.

muellersfan

Unfortunately, you now must assume that air and water vapor has entered the A/C system. This is very bad. After you fix the condenser fan issue, you need to replace the receiver/dryer, place the system under a deep vacuum, and recharge the system with the proper weight of refrigerant and volume of oil. You sound a bit inexperienced with A/C systems, so having a shop do this work may be wise.

tony_2018

Yup, I had a short in the fan wiring and it cause the fan to not come on. Had me freakin out during traffic stop and go until I investigated.