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UPDATE(16SEP15): So, I am here to say I FINALLY have good news. The car is idling like a champ and the cooling fan problem I thought I had is no more. Thanks to everyone that gave their .02 cents. I am also posting up the pictures my wife and I took throughout this whole rebuild process.
UPDATE(13SEP15): Okay, just as a little progress report; the car is now running, but after 8mins, or so, the idle begins to surge.
Solution: Pulled IACV and TB. Cleaned IACV and corresponding mounting location on the TB. Then proceeded to do a on-the-road idle relearn. It wasn't by the book, per say, but it did the trick. I posted pictures of the IACV before I cleaned it on page 4, enjoy some nasty.
UPDATE(7SEP15): Bad coil, hopefully after I swap in a good one we'll get some life outta this motor!
Solution: New coil is in, along with new plug wires and the motor IS now running.
UPDATE(5SEP15): Injectors pulse when you crank motor, I have fuel pressure at the rail, it's getting spark, no CEL's, timing is dead on, plug wires ARE routed correctly, ...dizzy only goes on one way; I really am at a loss.
Solution: I had my distributor keyway on backwards, so in turn my spark was 180 degrees off. Simplified it was just throwing spark at the wrong time.
And here is what we started with about a month ago, when we took on this project.
Not long after we started tearing everything down we began masking all open plugs, ports, ect for some full strength Purple Power! This stuff truly is amazing; I use it on damn near everything.
Next came the pressure wash bath after we allowed the Purple Power to really soak in. It's crazy what 265k miles of leaking gaskets + road grim can do to a car.
Can never seem to et everything, you always miss a few spots..
About midway through the rebuild we finally got all of our lovely OEM Honda gaskets from Majestic! (HG, water pump, T belt tensioner, coolant hoses, valve cover gasket kit, IM gasket, TB gasket, IACV gasket, a bunch of small random seals, and a few other random parts, inner & outer tie rods, random nuts and bolts etc.)
Our next plan of action was to drop the head off at the machine shop to get machined down; I believe .004" is all they had to take off. While the head was at the machine shop I decided to try and remove as much carbon build-up from the pistons as possible.
I then decided to tear apart the IM and TB assembly and clean it thoroughly.
I, unfortunately, got lazy and didn't take many pictures during final assembly. I didn't think it would be very interesting seeing me put every new hose and O-ring on.
And here it is, all done. Eager to start stacking some more miles on the odometer!
Hello HT, I've been cleaning/rebuilding my wife's 2000 DX for a couple weeks and now that it's all back together it won't start. My wife and I got this 2000 civic in really rough shape and decided to tear down the motor and replace worn gaskets, components and really just clean the crap outta this thing; pretty much just give this civic the proper maintenance for a 300k mile car. I've already checked spark; loads of healthy spark, timing checked and double checked and it is getting fuel to the rail, but the injectors are not pulsing. I checked voltage and ohms at each injector and I'm getting battery voltage and consistent ohms. I then moved on to the IGP1 & IGP2 wires and they're also both getting battery voltage.
Now, I'm not really sure what my next step is, I have been searching the web but, all I'm finding is dead-end threads that do not apply to my situation. The car ran just fine before I tore it all apart, had/has no cels, the only thing I can think of is that I messed up one of the cam sensors when I dismantled the dizzy to thoroughly clean it. However, I put everything back just the way it came apart and I wouldn't suspect any problems from the dizzy.
Last edited by JDM-sol 89; 09-16-2015 at 04:53 PM.
What I meant by that was, with the key ON I am getting battery voltage out of all 4 of the yellow/black wires at the injector and each injector read out at 11.7 or 11.8 ohms.
No CEL's. CEL illuminates for a few brief seconds when I turn the key and then goes out, just like it should.
^after 30 seconds of cranking there are still no codes. After I cranked the motor over for 30 seconds I turned the key off, jumped the CEL plug under the dash, tuned the key back on and CEL just stayed solid yellow, no blinking.
Right. I probed B2, B10, B20 & B22 with one multimeter lead and bridged that over to a bolt head down by the kick panel with the other multimeter lead to check continuity.
I'm afraid of that. I don't see how the ECU could go bad from just sitting in the car. Strange. I don't want to start throwing parts at it until I have a definite answer.
Alright, well I had a bit of a break through. Went out and rented a noid light set just to cross injector pulse off the list and sure enough, I have injector pulse. I have injector pulse at all 4 injectors. Earlier today I tested each injector and all injectors tested good. This so called "break through" is bitter sweet because I feel like I'm back at square one.
Last edited by JDM-sol 89; 09-13-2015 at 06:02 PM.
That was my first plan of action Ron. I pulled the plastic intake components off and sprayed 2 shots of starting fluid into the TB and then cranked the motor over with no results; not even an attempt to start.
I then proceeded to pull the rail. I pulled the rail, cranked the engine and each injector sprayed as it should.
I checked the spark on just the #1 cylinder earlier today when I first ran into problems and it appeared to be bright blue/white. I did not, however, check the spark on all 4 cylinders, I will do so.
I was thinking over some things I had done to the car since I started this rebuild and it just hit me. When I had the distributor completely torn apart I think I may have put the key way at the end of the distributor on backwards, which would completely explain why there would be a no start, but spark, fuel etc.
So, I hurried out to the garage, popped off the dizzy, flipped that key way around and bolted it back in place. Got in the car, cranked it over and it finally sputtered, a bit, for 4 or 5 seconds, very hesitantly, and then just died; showing me some CELS's.
So, I then pulled the codes to see a 10 and 14... The code 10 was pretty self explanatory considering the plastic intake components were removed but, the 14 brought question. The only thing I can think of is there isn't much coolant in the system since I had almost every part of the motor removed. And that's kind of where I'm at. I pulled the plugs to let the fuel in the cylinders and on the plugs dry a bit before I give it another shot.
Last edited by JDM-sol 89; 09-07-2015 at 03:22 PM.
Code 14 would not generally cause a no-start problem, but you may want to check for swapped sensor connectors and whether the fuel injector connectors are installed in the correct firing order, using wire colors as a guide.
If there's bright white spark at all 4 plugs, the next steps would be to check the mechanical timing and to compression test the cylinders.
Code 14 would not generally cause a no-start problem, but you may want to check for swapped sensor connectors and whether the fuel injector connectors are installed in the correct firing order, using wire colors as a guide.
If there's bright white spark at all 4 plugs, the next steps would be to check the mechanical timing and to compression test the cylinders.
Okay, so first thing I did was check the injector plugs to ensure they were in the correct firing order.
cylinder #1-BRN & YLW/BLK
cylinder #2 RED & YLW/BLK
cylinder #3 BLUE & YLW/BLK
cylinder #4 YLW & YLW/BLK
Next, I popped off the plastic service panel covering the cam gear to check the mechanical timing. I had to wrench the crank back around to align the timing marks and I can definitely tell there is at least some compression in the cylinders. Once I lined the white dash mark up on the crank pulley I made sure it was visible through the 2 plastic alignment marks that extrude out from the lower plastic cover. Next I made sure my cam gear was facing up, with the indicated arrow and the word "UP", I then laid a straight edge on the flat portion of the head where the valve cover is supposed to sit, helps me see how close I am to the tick marks since I cant get my head down there, and I ensured the 2 outer-most tick marks on the cam pelley were parallel to the valve cover mounting surface.
1. Is there anyway to tell if I have the round keyway at the end of the distributor on correctly? I know the distributor itself can only go on one way but if I have that keyway on wrong it will appear right, but in reality, the rotor button will be 180 degrees off. I'm obviously not sure if I have mine on right since I put my dizzy back together. I thought I had the "keyway" backwards earlier today, so I swapped it and it ran very slightly, however I am now back to square one.
2. Since I'm getting injector pulse and the injectors themselves are spraying fuel, can I officially rule out fuses, main relay, ignition stuff?
3. This civic IS an auto, is there anything transmission-related that can be keeping this car from starting? When I turn the key to the "ON" position the D4 light illuminates along with the CEL, not sure if that's just a way to inform you that the car is performing a transmission check?? I know it sounds silly, but this is the first auto civic I've ever owned, so I'm in uncharted territory.
I'm trying to get a good handle on where to start my troubleshooting in the morning.
Thanks for all the help through day 1
Last edited by JDM-sol 89; 09-05-2015 at 04:28 PM.
09-05-2015, 06:04 AM
2000 DX won't start
