pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

alright...... we did get code 4 (CKP) but now it disappeared and now 5 new codes came up....

9- CYP cylinder sensor
20- electircal load detector..... (note.... speedo was working then suddenly died? WTF)

50-....... WTF can't id this code?
54-CKF crank fluctuation sensor
65-secondary oxygen sensor heater...


we can rev the car just fine. but also NO VTEC engagment!
And we have no VTEC codes.... so why is vtec disabled?


Modified by pennies_hatchie at 2:10 PM 9/23/2003

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

bump this ****

HXMan

What is the setup?

GSR engine and 99 Si ecu?

What wire harness?

Hybrid96EK

did you forget to plug some **** in? HAve you double checked the wiring on your dist to make sure its pinned correctly? Where did you get the dist from? Are you running the second O2 or using a test pipe?

Fowler.

Man, had you used an si wiring harness, you wouldn't have any of these problems.

Check your wiring. Those are the sort of codes you get when you mess something up in that department.

btw, what year is the motor? I'm assuming it's a pre-99

Happyman

What year GSR is it? Reason for no VTEC is probably the codes. Car is probably in limp mode.

madtownhonda

Where in Madison????

I could probably come give you a hand.

IM me or something.

YEE*MagicEK20kombobomber

No VTEC probably cuz of the CELs. when i was throwing a code 54, my car wouldnt rev past 5g. i guess it pust the ecu into a safe mode when u got CELs.

ruthless013

no speedo = no vtec.

sounds like you gots major issues.

my hybrid uses an ex harness modified for a 99si ecu & motor.

good luck.

HXMan

The EX harness should work great....more wires will have to be extended then if you used an Si harness...but other then that its basicly the same.

Sounds like you may have some plugs swapped around(not hard to do), or if you extended them your connections aren't good.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

thanks guys....this is charlie... me and pennie are working on the car at my house is Saint paul..... wish we were closer to madtownhonda...

thanks for the info. I'll be back when i look over it again.

DumpedSi

iTrader: (5)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ruthless013 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
no speedo = no vtec.


</TD></TR></TABLE>

madtownhonda

Are you using an obd2 alternator and distributor? Injectors?

Code 54 is an easy one...the obd1 motor doesn't have it and the 99 SI ECU will look for it. Your car will not run good with this code. If you want to get it, you'll need to get a OBD2 JDM ecu or convert to obd1. It's on the oil pump and to fix it you can either convert to jdm or obd1, or get a 96+ oil pump. If you get the oil pump, you will need to grab the plug off the d16y8 and wire it in because the EX only uses a 2 wire CKF and the plug is different than the b18c one.

Code 9 is a dizzy problem...either the wiring is wrong, or the housing is fucked. Try an obd2 dizzy...I bet that will fix it. I bet the wiring is wrong.

Code 20 is a little more difficult. I've never rewired an alternator but if I know the obd1 and obd2 plugs are different. 2 wires match...the other 2 don't. I can't remember for the life of me color---&gt;color but this could be a problem. Also make sure the grounds are all good to go. That would be a major problem that woudl cause code 20 to pop up. Maybe the ELD got shot when rewiring? You might need to replace the underhood fuse box.

I would guess the other code for the o2 sensor will go away if you reset the ecu. You shouldn't really need to do anything with that plug/wiring when doing a swap. This is another problem that could be fixed by going obd1.

To bad your not in Madison....always easier to fix if you can see it.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

thanks "madtownhonda"

well here is what i'm thinking about doing...

a) take out the altenator and test it to see if it will hold the LOAD.
b) I(charlie) have a complete OBD1 engine harness, altenator, ECU, dizzy...... might try to swap out the complete parts so that we don't have to run the OBD2 to OBD1 ecu conversion clip.
c) have Tony(handcommand) come over to look over the wiring.


just a few questions for you guys:
1) what is ELD.....? the fuse box looks fine along with all the fuse
2) what is the best way to remove the altenator? from the top or bottom?
3) ****** can i take out the complete engine haress OFF the motor & out of the car with out taking out the motor? If so i will attempt to do so and use my OBD1 harness off my swap for MY OBD1 GSR......
4) ........if i do swap out the current OBD2 harness for my OBD1... do i have to do any rewiring for the o2 sensor?


pennie and his bro are hella cool. Met them over the internet and now they are like brothers.... I let them borrow my ef so they could go back to school in WI. His EK is in my garage and we have to fix this asap. I'll do what ever it take to get this motor running properly..... even let him use my engine harness and parts.


....BUMP to the TIZZOP for more info.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thanks "madtownhonda"

well here is what i'm thinking about doing...

a) take out the altenator and test it to see if it will hold the LOAD.
b) I(charlie) have a complete OBD1 engine harness, altenator, ECU, dizzy...... might try to swap out the complete parts so that we don't have to run the OBD2 to OBD1 ecu conversion clip.
c) have Tony(handcommand) come over to look over the wiring.


just a few questions for you guys:
1) what is ELD.....? the fuse box looks fine along with all the fuse
2) what is the best way to remove the altenator? from the top or bottom?
3) ****** can i take out the complete engine haress OFF the motor & out of the car with out taking out the motor? If so i will attempt to do so and use my OBD1 harness off my swap for MY OBD1 GSR......
4) ........if i do swap out the current OBD2 harness for my OBD1... do i have to do any rewiring for the o2 sensor?


pennie and his bro are hella cool. Met them over the internet and now they are like brothers.... I let them borrow my ef so they could go back to school in WI. His EK is in my garage and we have to fix this asap. I'll do what ever it take to get this motor running properly..... even let him use my engine harness and parts.


....BUMP to the TIZZOP for more info.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

The ELD is the Electrical Load Detector. It sits in the bottom of the main fuse box under the hood. You can't see it unless you disassemble the entire box which is somewhat of a pain in the ***. Its job is to detect additional electical load on the alt which in turn will adjust the idle as needed.

I removed my alternator from the bottom. Slides right out.

You can remove the harness off the engine while the engine is still in the car. Problem is the OBD-1 harness won't plug into the OBD-1 distributor or your injectors.

One thing you still haven't answere for us is what year is the GSR engine?

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

The ELD is the Electrical Load Detector. It sits in the bottom of the main fuse box under the hood. You can't see it unless you disassemble the entire box which is somewhat of a pain in the ***. Its job is to detect additional electical load on the alt which in turn will adjust the idle as needed.

I removed my alternator from the bottom. Slides right out.

You can remove the harness off the engine while the engine is still in the car. Problem is the OBD-1 harness won't plug into the OBD-1 distributor or your injectors.

One thing you still haven't answere for us is what year is the GSR engine?</TD></TR></TABLE>

thanks for the info. So that code 20(electric code detector) is from possibly a burnout one INSIDE the fuse box under the main fuses.... anyone got pix or now how much it cost to get at honda?

the motor is a 94gsr ..... i know its illegal to swap out a older motor into a new car but hey good thing we're not in cali.

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

also why is the speedo not working?..... VSS unit or sensor?

if we can fix that VSS then we should have vtec since there are no other codes related to vtec.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

thanks for the info. So that code 20(electric code detector) is from possibly a burnout one INSIDE the fuse box under the main fuses.... anyone got pix or now how much it cost to get at honda?

the motor is a 94gsr ..... i know its illegal to swap out a older motor into a new car but hey good thing we're not in cali.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Well, actually its not illegal in some cases. If you are using a 94 GSR engine, then here is what I would do. Get yourself a 99 Si harness. It will plug in and you will be set for everything except the secondary intake runners. Wire those up seperately. Additionally, you will need to find either an OBD-2 GSR ecu or run an OBD-1 to OBD-2 conversion harness and then run an OBD-1 P72. You will need the P72 or you will get codes.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also why is the speedo not working?..... VSS unit or sensor?

if we can fix that VSS then we should have vtec since there are no other codes related to vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Because you have the largest oakie rig known to man kind

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">also why is the speedo not working?..... VSS unit or sensor?

if we can fix that VSS then we should have vtec since there are no other codes related to vtec.</TD></TR></TABLE>

the speedo was working for a bit and than it all of a sudden went dead.
another thing is that when we first started the car, we only got code 4 (couldnt rev past 3500 rpm cause of limp mode) and then the next day (went to bed for a bit) when we restarted the car, we got all those cells above (now we could rev past 3500 rpm but no vtec). and then we drove it around for a bit and came back, shut the car off and now all we get is code 20 (ELD) and all of a sudden the car went dead. and we couldnt start the car anymore. we had to push the car back to the garage. it makes a ttt.ttt..ttt...sound to it. it doesnt want to crank over, we think, it might be the starter or the alternator, but we're not sure as of right now...

anymore ideas??

Charlie Moua

iTrader: (3)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

Because you have the largest oakie rig known to man kind </TD></TR></TABLE>
please post intellegent answers or options. I don't know what you intensionally ment by that. Please clearify....

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by pennies_hatchie &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

the speedo was working for a bit and than it all of a sudden went dead.
another thing is that when we first started the car, we only got code 4 (couldnt rev past 3500 rpm cause of limp mode) and then the next day (went to bed for a bit) when we restarted the car, we got all those cells above (now we could rev past 3500 rpm but no vtec). and then we drove it around for a bit and came back, shut the car off and now all we get is code 20 (ELD) and all of a sudden the car went dead. and we couldnt start the car anymore. we had to push the car back to the garage. it makes a ttt.ttt..ttt...sound to it. it doesnt want to crank over, we think, it might be the starter or the alternator, but we're not sure as of right now...

anymore ideas??</TD></TR></TABLE>

The problem is it sounds like you completely ghetto rigged the swap from the get go. No offense, just saying it as it sounds. You need to clean it up per the above information and get it running CORRECTLY. Running it half *** can and will damage things and just wind up causing more problems in the end.

Hybrid96EK

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Charlie Moua &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
please post intellegent answers or options. I don't know what you intensionally ment by that. Please clearify....</TD></TR></TABLE>

If you would care to look at the end of my statement, I posted a smiley. That indicates that what I said was a JOKE. Sorry if you have no room in your busy scheduele for a little humor on the side. Lighten up a little.

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hybrid93Eg &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

If you would care to look at the end of my statement, I posted a smiley. That indicates that what I said was a JOKE. Sorry if you have no room in your busy scheduele for a little humor on the side. Lighten up a little.</TD></TR></TABLE>

its cool..
we're just stressed out right now...

we bought the swap WITH a SUPPOSELY 99 si wire harness already hooked up to it. the guy said it came from his 99 si and he had no problem whatsoever. so all we did was look at the wiring over and threw it in the car. we had a obd2b p72 but for some reason, its defective (couldnt even crank the car), threw in the 99 si ecu that came with the swap and vrroomm..
other than the wire harness problem and cells, the swap went in pretty clean.

our plan is to use my 2000 ex harness and hook it up
get the alternator and starter checked to see if they're still working
get a obd2b to obd1 conversion harness
run a obd1 p72 (we already have the ecu so thats why we're not going chip p28)

hopefully we can fix everything and no cells.

also, with the distributor, the previous owner hacked it to hell and back and connected it to a different housing. he than hacked the so called si harness to the outside housing like the housing on the dizzy to connect them. but the ? we have is that the si wire harness only has 8 wires leading to the housing while the dizzy has 9 wires. anyone have any ideas as to why its that and is it right or do we have to connect all 9 or is 8 all we need? thanks

pennies_hatchie

iTrader: (1)

bump y0
cause im stressed out