doneking

1999 Civic Dying / Stalling

About three weeks ago I recently bought a 1999 Civic LX 4dr, Automatic. It has 103,000 miles and looks to be maintained.

The previous owner started having issues where the car would just randomly die / stall on him at a stop light or while driving. Never in any certain pattern or circumstance. This happened about 6 mos. ago and the car has been setting up since.

Seeing as the car had been sitting for quite a while, I figured that I would start with some routine tune-up tasks for me to know where I'm at and keep the car in good shape. Here's what I've done so far.

* I replaced the battery, because it wouldn't hold a charge.
* New spark plugs (NGK).
* New spark plug wires (NGK) .
* Seafoam treatment (Gas tank & Vacuum line).

Until this last week I had no issues or experience with the car dying. This week it died on me a couple of times right after it started. I was always able to start the car immediately afterwards. Yesterday it died on me while I was cruising down the highway. I was going about 65-70 mph and the tach went to zero and the car was dead. I put the car in neutral, coasted to a stop on the side of the highway, turned the ignition off, and then put it in park. The car immediately started back up and I made it home with no further issues.

I've searched on here and other forums for answers and have found several threads that were similar, but with no follow up or exact remedy. Is there someone out there that has had this problem and actually found a solution that can chime in and help me out?

I've read about the following.

* Distributor needing replaced. (I plan to do this anyway.).
* Ignition...
* IAC...
* Grounds...

In all of my instances I have never had the Check Engine Light come on. So I'm assuming there are no codes to pull.

When I changed the plugs they were way past due (wore to .085), but looked good as far condition (brownish, no fouling).



Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!


DK

Former User

Stalling while driving is often caused by a bad ICM inside the distributor. Call around to local auto parts stores that will test the ICM free of charge.

Consider also replacing or cleaning the distributor cap and rotor.

Does the CEL work? When the key is turned to ON(II), the CEL should turn on and then off after 2 seconds if there are no codes.

doneking

Just went out and confirmed that the CEL does work when turned to ON (II). Then it promptly goes out w/all of the other lights.

I p/u a new Distributor Ignition Cap, Cap Seal, and Distributor Ignition Rotor from Honda yesterday. All of these parts are the original parts, so I'm replacing them for peace of mind too.

1.) When I have one of the auto parts stores check the Ignition Control Module...Will they be able to tell anything if it is running fine at the time?

2.) In some of the other threads where people talk about replacing the Ignition switch...is it the ICM that they are actually referring too?

I read somewhere that they possible had a recall for this generation for the Ignitions.


Thanks for your input.

DK

ferio252

I have been going through similar issues. The most common causes for our particular make and model is the Ignition switch recall, ICM and ECM.
For me, it turned out to be the ECM so I replaced the whole distributor unit as it was still under warranty.

I can empathize with the frustration of your car dying. Happened to me so many times when trying to find the problem.

The Collin

Take it to a dealership, and have them replace your ignition switch via the recall. I had the same symptoms, and once the recall was taken care of, I have not had any further issues.

doneking

I just got through installing the new Distributor Cap, Seal, and Rotor. I didn't have much faith that these would fix the problem, but I still wanted to perform the tasks regardless. They didn't solve the problem...As soon as I started the car up to test my work, it died within ten seconds. It started right back up and run fine for the ten minute test drive.

I was going to remove the ICM and take it to get it tested, but I didn't have a spare vehicle to run it up to the auto parts store at the time. It is about 107 degrees w/the heat index...so I may tackle the ICM removal and test next week when I have another car.

If it happens to be the ECM, about how much do those run in price?




Thx,

DK

SHO-NUFF

Ron is most likely right. The ICM is usually the main culprit.

doneking

I took the car in last week to get the recall work done on the ignition switch. They checked the warranty records and the recall had never been performed on my vehicle yet, so they did it at no charge.

So far it has not died on me and has been working fine. Time will tell, since it never really happened at a certain interval. I'll post back in a few weeks to give an update.

I appreciate all of the suggestions and helpful folks on here.



DK

doneking

Someone asked so I thought I'd post a follow up that I should have already done.

It's been almost 7 months with no issues of stalling or dying since the ignition repair. Problem gone.


DK

hyperformance1

I had the same problem with my civic. wanted to post my experience to help others in the future.

Replaced spark plugs, main relay, fuel pump, fuel filter and because i read here that it might be on the distributors Ignition Control Module so i replaced it too with a new one.. Cleaned the Idle Control.. But the problem is still there.. Engine still dies along with the gauge lights. When the gauge lights turns off my engine will turn but it wont start, but when the gauge lights turn on engine will run..

Just today i replaced the Ignition Switch Assembly and luckily it did the job. So i hope this will help other honda civic owners out there..

Potential2nr

I am having the same problem in my 99 hatch DX. I have replaced everything but the ICM and the ECM. I dont know if my car qualifies for the ignition recall since the motor has been swapped. Since the swap I have had no problens until recently. Same story...ill be rolling on the freeway and then it will just shut off lights and radio still on. After coasting to a stop i have to sit for a minute then it will start right up and roll no problems until the next random moment. I am still looking for solutions. Any advice is still greatly accepted.
Thanks

doneking

Did you replace the ignition switch?

It is located along side the steering column. I don't know with an engine change if they would perform the replacement under warranty at this stage. To do it yourself...it will run a little over $100. At least that was the cost when I was having the trouble.

I know that as soon as mine was replaced it solved the problem.



DK

Potential2nr

It was the main relay so i changed that out and shes been running great ever since. Only concern is I keep smelling gas which I didnt before. Wondering if something could be off fuel system. Nothing is leaking and seem to run normal

HardyParty

I'm dealing with this same issue & after replacing practically everything.. new battery, new alternator, new main relay, the distributor was only 4-5 months old if that brand new(could of been a junk one) only replaced it due to an oil leak. Plopped the old one back on it the car did it again between 90-100miles but ran fine on cold starts/drives on seperate occasions/days. No pattern it just dies when it wants too its weird. Have the car idle for 15mins then turn the key off then try & start it again and it automatically dies. @ this point I'm thinking ignition key switch. It's the only thing that makes sense to me @ this point in time. If anyone has any input, dont be hesitant. Merry Christmas yall 🎄

TomCat39

10 year old thread. Please start your own thread with your car details and reference this thread if required. Thank you.