Originally Posted by cdan
My smog guy said you must bypass the computer before screwing with the timing and i have no idea how to do that.
That is only for ignition timing, and you must jump the service connector.(peice of cake) You can use a paper clip.
For the timing belt, small hands DO help. lol
To set the mechanicle timing, you simply line up the mark on the crank pulley with the V shaped thing on the lower timing cover.
To set the ignition timing, you'll need a timing light. But you shouldn't have to do this unless you mess with the distrubitor.
You don't have to replace the tensioner. I didn't and all is fine. ( I did mine 2 months ago.)
if it spins freely doesn't make any noise or spin weird, your good to go.
For the crank and cam seal, again you don't have to. I didn't, mine wasn't leaking at the time so I left it alone. BUT, if you develop a leak down the road, your going to have to this all over again. Plus, pulling the cam out.
For the collent hoses, just get in there and take a look. If you think they are leaking, replace them. They aren't too expensive.
IF you set TDC before, you shouldn't run into any issues with keeping it there. You don't have to set it now, but I would! It makes it a lot easier when your all done, and all you have to do is check it, and re-essemble. When you do re-essemble, rotate the car over a few times, and re check the timing. (about 7 times, or more. What ever) And just insure the timing is still correct. It is quite easy to get these things off by a tooth. Remember ALWAYS
The cam pulley has a UP mark on it. Make sure it's straight up. It's now at TDC. As I already said there is a mark on the crankpulley. All you need to do is line it up with the V mark on the timing cover. (crank is now at TDC)
It's really straiht forward, if your mechanicly inclinded you can do it no problem. Make sure to drain the collant. You'll also need to pull your plug wires, and your VC. So replacing the gasket is usally a good thing.
I think I covered everything