Jimi Hondrix

1997 Civic EX coupe, Stock, A/T, 150k miles Purchased 8 months ago. No history provided by previous owner.

Background: Two weeks ago I had an auto body shop repair (collision,,previous owner) a large dent at passenger side rear quarter panel, a few small dents at other locations, trunk rust repair (small water leak) and a complete two stage paint job. The body shop owner does all the work (no employees) and he showed me where sheet metal (weld points) was used previously to repair the quarter panel dent after he sanded down to bare metal. He said that the previous metal replacement failed and that's why it crumpled. He pulled and straightened rear quarter panel dent as much as possible and use a combination of Bondo-Resin and plastic Bondo (combined for 1/4 inch or less depth) with great result.
He used sheet metal to repair the trunk's passenger side drain channel starting from rear window seal to 2/3rds length of channel (towards rear end of car). He gave me a three year written warranty on body work and paint. IMO he did a very good job considering the price..$1000.

A lot of rain lately in my area and now trunk carpet is very wet at approximately passenger side corner near tail lights and middle of trunk near latch ... small amount of water in spare tire well. I removed and cleaned the trunk seal (inner and outer) with a tooth brush and spray bottle of dawn dish liquid/water mix. The inner seal was very dirty and looks like it may have had adhesive used on it at some point.

I noticed the trunk lid is slightly raised on each corner nearest back window:
1) Is the trunk lid supposed to make contact (compress) with the trunk seal?
2) Is it possible to lower the latch and adjust rubber lid bumpers to create a tighter seal?
3) Should I 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to help waterproof the trunk seal?

I've read through several post on many sites concerning Civics and trunk leaks. The following are other possible intrusion areas that I will approach if it isn't the seal:
a) Tail light gaskets
b) Silicone over run-off channels..from back window to above tail lights
c) Replace rear window seal
d) Caulk or 3M adhesive around trunk vent perimeter
e) Caulk or 3m adhesive white bumper tab through-holes.
f) Reapply 3M seem bond as mentioned in TSB

I called the auto body owner today but, he's was not open (Labor Day). His trunk repair looks solid but, can't rule it out as a possibility. I don't recall the trunk lid being raised before he repaired/painted it so, he may have removed the trunk lid.
I plan to look for leaks with the back seats down, baby powder inside trunk, hose running water at several locations around trunk/rear window (2nd person using hose)
I plan to post pics on Wednesday but hope to get comments/suggestions in the meantime.

oneheadlight

sounds like you have all the known items covered. I will say that if the body guy did not use seam sealer on those panels down the water run channel. The area from the rear window, down the sides of the trunk area. Then it would leak like you said. You should check with this body guy wednesday and see if he did use that. Sounds like he would stand behind his work.

The problem I had was the area from the window right before it goes vertical on the sides of the trunk. Had a body shop add seam sealer to those areas, trunk was dry!

but so far your diagnostics sound solid.. thought I'd add what fixed it for my 96 Civic.

Jimi Hondrix

He should be in tomorrow and I plan to call him. I can't bring the car to him tomorrow as I am working all day/evening. He's a good dude.. if he has seem sealer on hand I'm sure he'll apply some to the area you mentioned (if not already there) , as well as the seem that runs atop the rear passenger-side wheel well and towards rear end of car. Several posters stated this is a problem area if there is/was rear end or quarter panel damage.

Thanks.

Jimi Hondrix

Anyone like to answer these..[please:

I noticed the trunk lid is slightly raised on each corner nearest back window:
1) Is the trunk lid supposed to make contact (compress) with the trunk seal?
2) Is it possible to lower the latch and adjust rubber lid bumpers to create a tighter seal?
3) Should I 3M 08008 Black Super Weatherstrip Adhesive to help waterproof the trunk seal?

Jimi Hondrix

My son checked for leaks in the trunk using a flashlight with the back seats folded down while I sprayed water all over trunk, rear glass, rear bumper, tail lights and sides of trunk. Only leaks found were on both passenger side and driver's side drain channels. It appears the driver's side channel is leaking from the seam only so, some clear seam sealer should fix that. The passenger side (side recently repaired by body shop) looks to be leaking through the rear glass polyurethane adhesive seal. The body shop owner didn't remove the glass during the initial repair three weeks ago. He said he has a guy that will lift the glass and reseal it for $140. While the glass is out the body shop owner will do any necessary repair.

Here's a few pics. The rusted area looks to be another sign that water is getting in through rear window seal and traveling along the underside of the passenger side drain channel along the beam.and dripping into trunk :

tony_2018

oneheadlight

also.. those areas down the run channels, are EXACTLY where mine was leaking as well. It would drip down from there then run along the trunk reinforcement (behind the carpeting). Then from there it would find it's way into the spare tire well. Best solution was seam sealer. NO more leaks after that!

But I do agree that the trunk lip looks a little high, and I agree with Tony, it's the arms that hold the trunk lid might be bent.

Did you ever hear back from the body shop? I mean any solution yet? or you're just asking and posting up what you found so far?

Jimi Hondrix

He's been busy and ask me to come in today. I will let him know my concern of the raised trunk as well and report back here later today. Thanks for all the replies so far.

Jimi Hondrix

I took it to him and he climbed in the trunk while I ran water over rear window and trunk. He saw the leaks and is convinced it leaking under the trunk seal and not rear window seal. He advised me to get either a new seal, junk yard seal in best shape I can find, or use removable. pliable sealant on the inner track (that mounts on the metal lip perimeter) of the current seal. I am not convinced that's the issue for the sides drain channels but, will make it a starting point.

After he climbed out of the trunk I ran water slowly over the rear glass while trunk lid was open. Near the middle of the drain channel that runs closest and parallel to the rear window the water skipped over that drain channel and into the trunk. I pointed out the trunk being possibly misaligned and the corners that are lifted up, as well as my concern that the lid is not compressing the seal. He agreed and used a sledge hammer (holding it close to the weighted end) and tapped from underneath along the drain channel that runs closest and parallel to the rear window while using his left hand to support the lower rear window/rubber trim on the topside. It bent that entire area up uniformly and resulted in the seal making contact.

For the driver's-side (side) drain channel I am positive the small leak is coming through the seam and I will coat that with seem sealer. The passenger side is yet to be determined and as stated I will start with trunk seal... any recommendations?

oneheadlight

I guess if a sledge hammer worked, it worked, but wouldn't have been my first choice

If you need a good trunk seal for your coupe, rockauto has them from a company in minnesota that manufactures them, great quality. I have their seals and I have to put them on first, but I already measured, it would definitely fit. I found it, metro molded parts, $21.79! I'd say that's better than a junkyard!

The seam sealer that I used was 3m brand seam sealer. I also agree with you that the seam sealer is the way to go. I needed a new trunk seal because the rubber was getting so old it just needed to be replaced before it did start leaking. Thanks for the update!

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks for the reply..good info and I will look into that RockAuto seal. Did you use clear 3M sealer? I'd rather use clear if possible. I really hope it is just the seal but, I think in part he's very busy and may not want to mess currently if the glass needs to be pulled.

oneheadlight

I used the stuff my body shop used which was the black seam sealer. But, I did look into it and there is a clear 3m brand sealer that Honda recommends. Found both links.. take a look

3M Clear Auto Sealer 08551

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/8...-materials.pdf

and you're welcome for the info about that trunk seal.. yeah the quality was really good, I'd say it might even be better than the oem seal.

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks again. I will come back with the results when I get it all sorted.

Jimi Hondrix

Thanks again.
Is this the seal you referred to: https://metrommp.com/?f=detail&Model...DA&Model=CIVIC ?
Rock Auto's: https://www.rockauto.com/catalog/mor...nid=439&jpid=0
Good price.

I will come back with the results when I get it all sorted.

oneheadlight

yes, that's the trunk seal. I already have it and to me it seems nicer than the oem one. And the price makes you laugh, since honda wants about double for that seal! ok, be interested to hear how it goes..

Jimi Hondrix

Yesterday, I applied the 3M seam sealer to the driver's side drain channel and to a couple small areas on the metal lip the rubber trunk seal seats on. New trunk seal installed using 3M super weatherstrip adhesive. Still leaking on both sides though, driver's side channel leak is significantly smaller.
I chatted on-line with a 3M technician and he said that the weatherstrip adhesive will not adhere to the seam sealer and I cannot rule out those small spots that water may be getting through. I will pull the seal from spots and remove the seam sealer and reapply adhesive in hopes it will stop the leaks..yet, I have my doubts. When I lift up a bit on the new seal all around the perimeter it feels firmly in place, even on the small spots with seem sealer underneath.

Pretty sure water coming through the rear window seal (polyurethane) and dripping down under the metal lip the trunk seal seats on.. thus, making it appear that the trunk seal is the problem. I also noticed that water is dripping long after I turned the hose water off. On the plus side the new trunk seal has cured or lessened previous trunk rattle. This is frustrating to say the least. It is an 18 year old car so I guess it's not unexpected but, seems like somewhat of design flaw .. kinda like the the (under) seat adjustment bar being closer to the center rather than the door....lol.

tony_2018

for its current yr, I'm sure the seal was probably brittle and ready to go.

Jimi Hondrix

Yes, it was brittle. I edited (added) my previous post. Seems to me that the dripping that occurs a while after water is shut off may also indicate the rear window seal as water would drip slowly from the top of the car, underneath the rear window's rubber trim and on to trunk floor?

tony_2018

I can't really tell if thats a question or a sentence. Water doesn't really travel slow unless there is someting trapping it along the way down or the water has taken a different route.

I would start clearing away any debri inside the water channels and do the following.

The only way is to really inspect it, create sections for the entire rear windshield, start with one section by keeping the water running in only that section only, while someone is inside. Keep moving to another section with the hose AFTER the person inside still see's water coming down. You should be able to narrow it down.