tmort

I'm going to have to replace my lower trailing arm bushings. I'd prefer not to have to remove the whole arm as well as not buying a removal tool.

I think I can make my own puller, but, would like to know how thick the metal collar is (or the ID of this collar). I measure the OD to be 3.14" and I see it posted that it is actually 3.17".

I would like to find out this information so I can find a piece of pipe that is smaller the the OD of the collar, but, bigger then the inside ID.

Can anyone help me out with this dimension?

TIA

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

I used the 2lb brass hammer from Harbor Freight to do my CRX. They pop out really easy this way. They also go in easy if the T/A holes are good from the factory. On my old CRX I could tell one was not perfect because that one old bushing that came out was slightly cone shaped. When I tried to put the new one in with the hammer, it wouldn't even start (just rocked back & forth & popped out). I had to use a 12 Ton press to get that one started by gently walking it in. Even the press gave up and hit the relief valve once the bushing finally started into the hole. I finished that bushing off with the brass hammer. My search reveals this condition is quite rare. And in the event this does happen to you, you can always knock the old cone shapped bushing back in to get back on the road.

BTW: This coned condition is what breaks those $120+ puller tools, so it's a problem no matter what method you use.

Here is the hammer demo.

stupidhard

they are all cone shaped. that's the way they were designed.

if you buy or diy a mechanical puller you may not have to remove the t/a from the car. remove the bolts from the t/a bushing pivot and take the through bolt for the strut out of the lca and that should give you enough room to work. that's how I did mine.

difference being I replaced mine with hard *** e.s. bushings.

just remember the small side of the tapered (cone shaped) bushing goes to the outside of the vehicle so when you remove them you will be driving them tward the center of the vehicle.

-chris

p.s. get some hard race replacements.. you will be glad you did.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

That is not true. The bushings are not cone shaped. They are evenly cylindrical. The hole in the trailing arm is cone shaped and expands once you press the bushing in. This is called an interference fit and holds the bushing in place. This is also the reason why it's possible to hammer the bushing all the way through from the front if you so desired (youtube has videos of this also).

The problem is some of the trailing arms are tighter than others. My original 89 left side was a nightmare compared to my original 89 right. The trailing arm was too tight and actually forced the cylindrical bushings into a permanent cone shape. This is not normal.

tmort

Thanks for the replies.

I guess I'll give the hammer method. I have arthritis in my wrist and now lift so hammering while laying on my back doesn't sound real appealing. If that doesn't work I'll try making a puller.

I also ran across some bushings that are called "quick press in" Dorman part number 523-012.

They are more expensive than OEM style replacements. It appears that the arm that goes through the bushing is not fixed onto the rubber so there could be movement.

Does anyone know anything about them?

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

That Dorman thing looks really sketchy.

tmort

That's what I was thinking. On the other hand, if I go NAPA online that is the only one listed.

I've always been under the impression that NAPA carried decent quality parts.

94eg!

iTrader: (2)

It's a parts store, chances are they know nothing about nothing.