young_

So I've been having this problem for a little bit now and I can't seem to figure it out. My car will cut off after either hard or long drives. I make about an hour trip to Eatonton once a week or so, and every single time when I go to get off on my exit I'll push in the clutch and the RPM's will drop to 0 and the car will cut off. Battery and oil lights come on, etc. When I crank it back up it cranks SLOW, but still cranks. It will typically cut off every stop I make after that but if I crank it back up at a stop the rpms will slowly drop down to around 200, and it will just idle really low but not cut off. I also have this problem at four way stops in traffic. The idle will slowly drop the longer I'm sitting and I have to blip the throttle to get it high enough to drive without shaking from trying to stall out. The car has cut off a couple of times when I've been making turns and I lose my power steering when it cuts off. (not fun) I have recently replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor, and fuel filter. I have cleaned my IACV but to no avail. Running out of ideas.

Thanks in advance for your help and suggestions!

If you need more information just let me know, I'll be glad to help as much as I can.

Edit: Thought I might mention, my CEL is on for the downstream O2 sensor (P1014 I believe?) Also my speedometer only works occasionally, but I think it's my cluster, it doesn't clock miles either I read a TSB about the main engine harness rubbing against the intake manifold causing a fuse to blow that controls the alternator, downstream o2 sensor, and speedometer. Two of which I'm having trouble with. May be irrelevant but thought i'd throw it in there. But yeah the engine harness is fine. :O
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EJ8_Man

First fix your CEL. If the problem persists continue researching the cause.

When you press in the clutch is the clutch actually disengaging 100%? You may have a bad clutch master or slave cylinder. Try bleeding the clutch line and see if any bubbles come out.

It could also be you just need to clean your throttle body / intake manifold, or it could be a faulty IACV.

young_

Here is a link to the issue I'm having. The video is at a four way stop.
I have noticed fluid on the inside of the car where the clutch pedal meets the firewall, and I have to add fluid periodically, but I've never noticed a relation between the two issues.

Also, I've replaced the downstream o2 sensor but the light is still on. Though I used a bosh o2 sensor, not OEM.

I also forgot to mention that my transmission needs to be rebuilt. Second gear pops out occasionally and I know my clutch has seen better days. But I didn't think the clutch would cause this problem.

EJ8_Man

You need to reset your ECU to clear the codes. Either pull the fuse or disconnect the battery and wait a few minutes. Then reconnect

With the pedal depressed if the clutch is not fully disengaging, and is making contact with the flywheel, it will effectively stall the motor. If the slave cylinder is leaking hydraulic fluid it may be allowing air to enter the system which would cause engagement/disengagement issues.

young_

I have tried the fuse and the battery and the code came back every time. :/ your theory with the clutch makes sense though. I will plan to replace the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder when I replace the clutch and rebuild the transmission. Are there any other theories as to what my problem could be?

EJ8_Man

Don't spend money replacing anything until you establish what the actual problem is. See if any air comes out of your clutch slave cylinder. The bleeder nipple is on the front side of the transmission to the left of the D16 stamp.

EJ8_Man

Also Don't guess, pull your codes and see what the actual CEL is for.

ElectronBlue00

In addition, if your speedo AND odometer are not working, a possible reason is your VSS. Check the connection to the sensor and ensure its connected properly. I'd even make sure to check and make sure its not dirty.

If that senor is fautly, or the connection is bad then your spedometer, and odometor will not work.

young_

I meant I couldn't remember the number for the code but I'm certain that it is for the downstream o2 sensor as I get it checked weekly to ensure that I'm not throwing any other codes.

And as for the VSS, my cluster is bad itself. The stick that resets the trip doesn't work and the numbers on the odometer are halfway turned. The cluster is physically broken. I've observed the VSS and checked voltage and all is well.

young_

Bled the clutch, only fluid came out, no air. Any other ideas?

Former User

What exact codes are thrown? Post them.

Dusan

Hello,

I have the exact same problem with my 2005 RSX Type S. Same O2 Error code and same clutch low RPM / stall engine problem. Did you ever get this resolved and how?