nrk

Car is a 92 4 door D15B auto trans, never swapped or molested in any way.

Rotor screw fell out, car had no spark.

Brand new coil / ignition module, still no spark.

Ordered a complete new distributor, still no spark.

Main relay functions, click, prime, click off. Checked continuity between main relay and ecu, checked good...

I get fuel, plugs are wet and smell of fuel.

Rotor does turn as you crank the car.

Dash fuse and under hood ecu fuse are good.

7.5a ignition signal fuse is good.

I have 4.95V to the yellow / green map sensor connector.

Can check CEL codes, 6, 10, 20.

Here are my questions; I've read every diagnosis thread I could find.

1.Tested ELD; had battery voltage between one wire and the ground on the eld connector, the other wire had 3.5v when I was told it should read 4.5-5v; would this be a problem?

2.I have battery voltage to the black / yellow wire on the 2 pin dizzy connector; The yellow / green ign. signal wire on the other dizzy connector reads 0 volts from the harness side, cranking or not.

The only thing I can think that would be bad at this point is the ign. switch or the ECU, does anyone have anything else I should be testing? I wouldn't think it's the ECU because it's dumping codes and the CEL light does not stay solid after the main relay clicks off... I tried to test the ignition switch, I found connector 5P but wasn't clear on which one was 7p to finish the test. I'm so stumped.

goldsy

If the car turns over, I can't see it being the ignition switch. Try the simple solution first of unplugging the wire harness from the distributor and clean the plugs with some electrical contact cleaner and go from there. I've never run into an issue with dirt getting in there but I have with other harnesses. Worth a try. It really could be something as simple as that.

Check the wire from the ECU to the distrubutor.

Worst case scenario and I doubt that this is it since your no spark problem only happened when the screw fell out. I don't know the D15 engines as well as I know the D16 and B16's but if your timing belt snapped, the camshaft doesn't turn and the distributor won't send spark. I haven't confirmed this myself but I heard this is the case but either way I doubt that's the issue.

goldsy

To answer you question regarding the ELD, I'm pretty sure the car needs to be running (alternator spinning) to get the right voltage numbers.

nrk

Timing belt should still be good, as the rotor on the dizzy will spin while you crank it indicating the timing belt is turning the cam.

I get 0v from either way I probe the yel/grn wire, connector looks clean.

I tried to trace the yel/grn wire that I'm not getting voltage to but I'm not exactly sure where it goes? does anyone know if it heads to the left or right side of the bay?

I'm almost certain that wire is the problem because it needs 7v and I get 0, I'm just not sure where I should check it for continuity, or where it goes. I just know at the dizzy it doesn't have 7v KOEO, or while cranking.

goldsy

I'm off to bed, if you don't get a response about that wire by tomorrow, I'll dig out my manual and see exactly where that wire runs. In the meantime, check your private messages.

nrk

nrk

Bump for other speculations.

Next up when I get back to the garage is to trace the yel/gen dizzy wire, then?

92 civic ex 4dr

I know on the ef series you can put the rotor 180° out. So make sure your rotor isn't 180° out


Posted from Honda-tech.com App for Android

nrk

Thought about this too, mine can only go on one way though.

If it somehow jumped time, could it have no spark? I was at idle when it died though.

fonkernuckle

iTrader: (5)

Maybe I overlooked you posting it but you have you checked out the neutral safe switch and its adjustment

Bighun318

I understand that the dizzy itself only goes on one way and the rotor button only goes on 1 way but, on the end of the dizzy there are 2 tabs sticking out they call them lugs. these lugs are what goes into the camshaft have you tried spinning that 180?


http://www.thezcr.com/gallery/data/5...ssembly_26.JPG

nrk

It's an automatic, unless there's a switch like this for the auto's too. But I have tried starting it in P or N, same result.

nrk

When I replaced the dizzy I made sure the new one went on exactly how the old one came off. Even took pictures before I pulled the old one.

nrk

Update

Tested continuity between the yel/green dizzy wire and pin A21 and A22 at the ecu (what the yel/grn wire ties into); I have continuity to both wires.

With the dizzy plugged in I have 2.2V to both A21 and A22.

With the dizzy UNplugged I have 0v to both; cranking or KOEO.

Anyone know what's next? My manual doesn't really clarify where a21/a22 go or where the receive power. But I have 4.97v at the map, 12v to the IAT and ECT sensor, the only thing I'm missing is 7v to this yel/grn wire and this HAS to be the problem but I don't know what to test next. So close but so far!!!

RonJ halp pls

nrk

Bamp for evening crew.

I also only have 2v at pin D10...

nrk

bump.......... i can't make any sense of this.

nrk

Tried my ecu in another eg sedan and it fired right up.

Had an ase cert'd mechanic that's into Hondas come check it out and the main relay, ign switch, coil, and icm all tested good.

Pulled ect sensor, still no start. No spark.

About to part it out and scrap it.

nrk

Problem solved, bad ignition coil that read good.

Here's how I figured it out for anyone interested.

1. Make sure rotor is spinning when cranking

2. Make sure CEL doesn't stay on after main relay primes.

3. Make sure main relay primes.

4. Test injector pulse.

5. Test ICM. Probe your test light into the positive battery terminal, ground it to the - on your coil. Crank the car and make sure your test light blinks to let you know the icm is sending signal to the coil to tell it to spark.

My icm was sending signal to the coil, so I bought a new coil on a guess and that was what fixed the problem.