[FAQ] D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (56k, maybe not)
01-15-2004, 03:19 PM
#1
D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (56k, maybe not)
This is a write-up of my y7/y8 mini me. And since no one has ever done a write up on a 6TH generation mini-me, i've done this Bauleycivic style, though with less detail.
This swap was performed using a 1996 D16Y8 head which was mated onto a 1997 D16y7 block. I also swapped my pistons and rods for those from an 89-91 D16A6 for more compression.
pictures of my particular y8 head: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720018
What you need to buy:
New coolant and oil
d16y8 head
d16y8 head gasket
new head bolts
AND HERE WE GO: REMOVING THE OLD HEAD
1. drain the engine of coolant and engine oil
2. disconnect all coolant hoses, sensors, throttle cable, exhaust manifold and bracing from the y7 head (leave the y7 intake manifold attached--it makes the head easier to lift)
3. remove the spark plug wires and valve cover from the y7 head
4. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay
5. remove the 10 head bolts
6. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block
now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.
oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together.
PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON:
FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position.
1. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block.
2. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly
3. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence
4. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.
Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic. Also be sure to refill the motor with the proper amount of oil and coolant.
NOTE: we did not change the timing belt on my car as it was in near-perfect condition. that is why i have omitted this information from the write-up
Making it all work: this is the tricky part as there are a wires that will need to be either rerouted, spliced, eliminated, or disregarded.
1. The throttle body is a possible point of difficulty, the easiest way is to use the Y8 throttle body and y8 IACV on the head. In order to do this with the y7 wiring harness, you will need to take two spade connectors and connect them to the two prongs on the male side of the IACV connector, the connect these two wires to the three-wire female plug on the y8 wiring harness, being sure to disregard the orange wire. You will need to swap wires A12 and A14, and then disconnect wire A13 from the plug at the ECU.
2. To wire VTEC, you will either need some pigtails or you can just run two wires through the firewall, to the ECU, one coming from the VTEC solenoid and the positive wire from the VTEC pressure sensor. Be sure to ground the negative side of the VTEC pressure sensitive to somewhere on the chassis. Route the VTEC solenoid wire to socket A8 and the pressure sensor to socket C15 (at the ECU)
and i believe that is that!
and here are the pictures:
new pistons VS old pistons:
infinatenexus checking a couple of sensors
so pretty:
putting the dizzy on:
the old head:
the pretty, prepped block:
nice...
even after 67k miles, the cylinder walls still had the cross-hatching from the factory:
if i missed anything, please let me know.
Modified by soccaian at 7:36 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 7:44 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 7:48 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 11:43 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 12:12 AM 1/16/2004
This swap was performed using a 1996 D16Y8 head which was mated onto a 1997 D16y7 block. I also swapped my pistons and rods for those from an 89-91 D16A6 for more compression.
pictures of my particular y8 head: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=720018
What you need to buy:
New coolant and oil
d16y8 head
d16y8 head gasket
new head bolts
AND HERE WE GO: REMOVING THE OLD HEAD
1. drain the engine of coolant and engine oil
2. disconnect all coolant hoses, sensors, throttle cable, exhaust manifold and bracing from the y7 head (leave the y7 intake manifold attached--it makes the head easier to lift)
3. remove the spark plug wires and valve cover from the y7 head
4. unbolt the distributor from the head, and lay it aside, it's unnecessary to remove the dizzy from the engine bay
5. remove the 10 head bolts
6. double-check to make sure nothing else is still attached to the head, and then remove it from the block
now make sure the block is nice and clean, and if you are going to replace your internals like me, this is the time to do it, just drop the oil pan, and remove the rod bolts and pop the pistons out of the top of the block.
oh yeah, next time you hear someone talk about the bottom end of a d-series being unstable, take off the oil pan of a y7 and you'll notice a solid piece of aluminum, at least 3 inches wide tying the main caps together.
PUTTING THE NEW HEAD BACK ON:
FIRST MAKE SURE THE #1 CYLINDER IS AT TDC by rotating the crank usign the crank pulley bolt and that the cam is adjusted to straight up position.
1. spray the y8 head gasket with copper spray and put it in position, then replace the two spacers in the block.
2. lay the head on the block carefully, making sure everything goes on smoothly
3. torque the head bolts following the factory sequence
4. reattach all of the various sensors, timing belt, coolant and vacuum lines, and whatnot to the new head.
Also, at this time, replace the P2E ECU with the P2P from the EX trim level civic. Also be sure to refill the motor with the proper amount of oil and coolant.
NOTE: we did not change the timing belt on my car as it was in near-perfect condition. that is why i have omitted this information from the write-up
Making it all work: this is the tricky part as there are a wires that will need to be either rerouted, spliced, eliminated, or disregarded.
1. The throttle body is a possible point of difficulty, the easiest way is to use the Y8 throttle body and y8 IACV on the head. In order to do this with the y7 wiring harness, you will need to take two spade connectors and connect them to the two prongs on the male side of the IACV connector, the connect these two wires to the three-wire female plug on the y8 wiring harness, being sure to disregard the orange wire. You will need to swap wires A12 and A14, and then disconnect wire A13 from the plug at the ECU.
2. To wire VTEC, you will either need some pigtails or you can just run two wires through the firewall, to the ECU, one coming from the VTEC solenoid and the positive wire from the VTEC pressure sensor. Be sure to ground the negative side of the VTEC pressure sensitive to somewhere on the chassis. Route the VTEC solenoid wire to socket A8 and the pressure sensor to socket C15 (at the ECU)
and i believe that is that!
and here are the pictures:
new pistons VS old pistons:
infinatenexus checking a couple of sensors
so pretty:
putting the dizzy on:
the old head:
the pretty, prepped block:
nice...
even after 67k miles, the cylinder walls still had the cross-hatching from the factory:
if i missed anything, please let me know.
Modified by soccaian at 7:36 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 7:44 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 7:48 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 11:43 PM 1/15/2004
Modified by soccaian at 12:12 AM 1/16/2004
01-15-2004, 03:53 PM
#3
Re: D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (civic_rice)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by civic_rice »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">*jealous*
thats awesome dood!
where is a good place to get a set of rods/pistons in such great shape??</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks... i bought those pistons from infinatenexus, all i did was polish the tops a little with a die grinder and a scotch-brite attachment just to make em nice and smooth...
all you need to do is just visit a junkyard then just wash the pistons up.
also, http://www.d-series.org is a good place to look.
thats awesome dood!
where is a good place to get a set of rods/pistons in such great shape??</TD></TR></TABLE>
thanks... i bought those pistons from infinatenexus, all i did was polish the tops a little with a die grinder and a scotch-brite attachment just to make em nice and smooth...
all you need to do is just visit a junkyard then just wash the pistons up.
also, http://www.d-series.org is a good place to look.
01-15-2004, 03:57 PM
#4
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Re: D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (soccaian)
Dont forget the y8 timing belt, wouldnt want that y7 belt skipping a tooth and bending some valves, also, you forgot to wire in the knock sensor and get rid of the code 91 fuel tank pressure sensor, make sure to buy new exhaust, intake manifold gaskets and also the throttle body gasket, clean out the iacv when the head is off, you also have to wire in a 2 step IACV wire if you are reusing the d16y7 harness. Good luck everyone!
01-15-2004, 04:02 PM
#5
Re: D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (Civiclx)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Civiclx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Dont forget the y8 timing belt, wouldnt want that y7 belt skipping a tooth and bending some valves, also, you forgot to wire in the knock sensor and get rid of the code 91 fuel tank pressure sensor, make sure to buy new exhaust, intake manifold gaskets and also the throttle body gasket, clean out the iacv when the head is off, you also have to wire in a 2 step IACV wire if you are reusing the d16y7 harness. Good luck everyone!</TD></TR></TABLE>
y8 timing belt = y7 timing belt, same with cam gears
no KS needed for me... or at least i'm not throwing a code for it
no CEL for the fuel tanks pressure sensor either
my exhaust was already a hack-job, so it was already ready for everything as it sits now
yes, it will help to clean the IACV on the manifold
Intake manifold and TB gaskets are a good idea too
also, i reused my y7 harness, and i went through the wiring in the write-up
y8 timing belt = y7 timing belt, same with cam gears
no KS needed for me... or at least i'm not throwing a code for it
no CEL for the fuel tanks pressure sensor either
my exhaust was already a hack-job, so it was already ready for everything as it sits now
yes, it will help to clean the IACV on the manifold
Intake manifold and TB gaskets are a good idea too
also, i reused my y7 harness, and i went through the wiring in the write-up
01-15-2004, 06:15 PM
#7
Re: (jdmbran)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by jdmbran »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">any dyno figs for this swap?</TD></TR></TABLE>
no....
..... not yet
no....
..... not yet
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01-15-2004, 06:54 PM
#12
Re: (1SicCiv)
there seems to be a definite improvement in midrange power in the middle gears, i havent been able to wind it up seeing as how there are only about 20 miles on the block...
Rod bolts: i used ARP bolts
Oil control jet: doesnt exist in 6g d-series blocks, they are located in the head
now i just need an EX tranny. the LX sucks
Rod bolts: i used ARP bolts
Oil control jet: doesnt exist in 6g d-series blocks, they are located in the head
now i just need an EX tranny. the LX sucks
01-15-2004, 07:00 PM
#13
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Re: (soccaian)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by soccaian »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Rod bolts: i used ARP bolts
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good stuff. I was just making sure because I didn't see it in your parts list.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
Good stuff. I was just making sure because I didn't see it in your parts list.
01-15-2004, 07:18 PM
#14
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Re: (RyanCivic2000)
thats nice. what ive always been curious to.....for us with the y7 , to where the cat is right underniether the manifold....how do we get a header installed. since i have seen no headers made for the y7
01-15-2004, 07:20 PM
#15
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Re: (RedEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">thats nice. what ive always been curious to.....for us with the y7 , to where the cat is right underniether the manifold....how do we get a header installed. since i have seen no headers made for the y7</TD></TR></TABLE>
Have to get a header for the EX and move the cat downstream. I've done it. Nice improvement.
Have to get a header for the EX and move the cat downstream. I've done it. Nice improvement.
01-15-2004, 07:37 PM
#17
Re: (RyanCivic2000)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RyanCivic2000 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
Good stuff. I was just making sure because I didn't see it in your parts list.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, i figure i'll be seeing the redline quite often, so i just wanted to beef them up a bit.
here's a rundown on what i'm either running now, or will be on my car in about a week:
Y8 head, with a mild port and polish and extra clearancing for fuel injector spray pattern, comp cams valve springs, 59300 cam (install coming next week), some brand of cam gear (maybe golden eagle), OEM head bolts and head gasket, PM6 pistons and rods with ARP bolts, y7 throttle body, cheap intake, coolant bypass mod, chikara header , random technologies cat, apexi world sport exhaust, clutchmasters stage 1 clutch, *BREATH*, i think thats it....
Good stuff. I was just making sure because I didn't see it in your parts list.</TD></TR></TABLE>
yeah, i figure i'll be seeing the redline quite often, so i just wanted to beef them up a bit.
here's a rundown on what i'm either running now, or will be on my car in about a week:
Y8 head, with a mild port and polish and extra clearancing for fuel injector spray pattern, comp cams valve springs, 59300 cam (install coming next week), some brand of cam gear (maybe golden eagle), OEM head bolts and head gasket, PM6 pistons and rods with ARP bolts, y7 throttle body, cheap intake, coolant bypass mod, chikara header
, random technologies cat, apexi world sport exhaust, clutchmasters stage 1 clutch, *BREATH*, i think thats it....
01-15-2004, 07:38 PM
#18
Re: (RedEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have pics. im guessing you have to cut some piping???</TD></TR></TABLE>
you basically buy an EX header, then buy a cat designed for an EX, then run the rest of your exhaust, it will be likely that you will either need to shorten or extend your exhaust an inch or two at some point in the middle...
you basically buy an EX header, then buy a cat designed for an EX, then run the rest of your exhaust, it will be likely that you will either need to shorten or extend your exhaust an inch or two at some point in the middle...
01-15-2004, 07:39 PM
#19
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Re: (RedEK)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by RedEK »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">anyone have pics. im guessing you have to cut some piping???</TD></TR></TABLE>
If you have a stock exhaust then yes, you have to chop it up and weld a cat down past the header. If you have an exhasust with a 2 peice B pipe you can just pull out the front one and get a custom catalytic converter made.
If you have a stock exhaust then yes, you have to chop it up and weld a cat down past the header. If you have an exhasust with a 2 peice B pipe you can just pull out the front one and get a custom catalytic converter made.
01-15-2004, 08:02 PM
#22
Re: (BauleyCivic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by BauleyCivic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Looks good...very nice writeup dude </TD></TR></TABLE>
not quite as detailed as yours, but it gets the point across.
</TD></TR></TABLE>not quite as detailed as yours, but it gets the point across.
01-15-2004, 08:02 PM
#23
Re: D16Y7 / Y8 MINI-ME WRITE-UP.... WITH PICS (ci9v7ic)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ci9v7ic »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">id rather have a dohc! just my opinion. good job though.</TD></TR></TABLE>
say that to me again when you swap in your stock B16 for $2000
say that to me again when you swap in your stock B16 for $2000
01-16-2004, 01:19 PM
#24
the car is still runnin strong.... the engine definitely seems like it doesnt have to work near as hard to pull the car around in the middle gears.... now i just need to adjust my timing.
01-16-2004, 02:59 PM
#25
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Re: (soccaian)
good job on it, i have a 1997 dx block with a 99 ex head and mine runs fine minus the stupid code 91 fuel tank pressure because i am running a 1998 ecu. does anyone have a 1996 or 1997 they wanna sell me?
