98civdx

For the reverse lights, I just grabbed them at the plug from the auto shift box.

cut the plug off the harness, soldered my new wires to it and plugged it in. Looks factory.

tony_2018

Nice. I used posi-taps to bridge the connections to the wires I ran.

DumpdEJ6

Eh, I guess I'm just lazy, lol.

tony_2018

The wiring was kind of tricky because I'm trying to retain cruise control and my remote start. I'll fill you guys in later.

98civdx

The remote start and cruise shouldn't have anything to do with each other.

The "wrong" way to do it, just leave the RS set to automatic mode and pray you didn't forget the car in gear. Or just switch the alarm/RS system into manual mode ( if it's able to) and just do the shutdown sequence.

tony_2018

So its ok for the "P" to stay on constantly? Has the cruise control worked this way? I can't find any post within this thread stating they got it running.

Also the black/blue wire is not suppose to be tied in with the black/white and black/red, it suppose to be grounded or else the car won't start. I've looked at the Helms diagram and that is what it calls for.

Black/white and black/red has a relay between it with the clutch switch providing a ground signal to the relay. What I have in place is a tyco relay and the clutch switch providing ground to the relay as well as the black/blue wire.

My plan is to use the ground signal that my alarm sends out to the remote starter relay to also send a ground signal to the starter relay and that should complete the circuit.

tony_2018

Scratch that back to the drawing board for plan B with another relay to assist in providing a ground signal ONLY for remote start.

98civdx

I'm still confused and what remote start has to do with cruise control?

Just loop or cut solder the black/white, black/red leave other wire alone. Unless I completely misunderstood what you're trying to do.

tony_2018

Nothing.....I'm sorry you got confused between all my wiring blogs. The cruise control wire is straightened out. The issue I THOUGHT I had was that the black/blue wire needed to be grounded in order to start the car, but it turns out I didn't need it. That same black/blue wire tells the car that its in park (the "P" will light up). What I was afraid of was that if it continues to stay in park while the car is moving then the cruise control won't work. I'm waiting for my bleeder kit to come in so I can bench bleed the cmc and button that up, bleed the pedal and take it for a spin to test out cruise control.

As for remote start I have to find a way to send a ground signal using a combination of positive signal from the alarm and a relay. I want to keep it stock, to start the car step on the clutch. When I need to perform a remote start the alarm will trigger a relay to send a ground signal to start the car as well.

98civdx

Is your alarm manual safe?

Whether that other wire says its in park, I don't know.. I left that wire alone and just looped the 2 other. ( once I'm not lazy, they will be soldered)

I have RS on my converted car, but the alarm thinks it's an auto.

tony_2018

It is manual safe, I can convert it to manual. Its a compustar ft6000-as.

Edit: Don't worry man. I"m just brainstorming within this thread, just trying to keep it in one place.

bly87993

awesome write up!!

tony_2018

Cruise control fail, don't know why but I'm leaning towards it being because the interlock system does not see it in "D4". Back to the diagram board.

New lesson today, when returning everything back to oem stock, that includes the injectors. I was using Osidetiger injectors, apparently the p2j-j11 ecu did not like them for some reason.

evo_lucian

Finished up this conversion today on my rhd 97 Ferio. Followed the instruction with a few changes.
Rear tranny mount bracket didn't work, I enlarged the lowest hole on the blacket, and got that to bolt onto the gearbox with a 19mm bolt. The other hole on the bracket was to far to make work.

Did not have the front (lower) tranny manual bracket, so I used the stock auto mount but fabbed up a bracket with some flat steel.

I plugged the manual speed sensor to the stock auto harness but it speedo didn't work, so I pulled the auto VSS and put it on the manual box, it went on but couldn't bolt up because the "bolt hole ear" placement was off, so i used a hacksaw to slit it, put a big washer over it and bolted it down with the 10mm nut. Now my speedo works. Still have a CEL but I suspect its from the auto tranny lock up solenoid. Still experimenting with that one. I will give some feedback in a few day.

Will post pics in a few days.

BTW I'm on stock auto ecu and harness.

98civdx

Weird, I had no issue with my 5spd VSS and auto harness.

You getting a CEL because you are still on a auto ECU. Switch to a manual and you be fine.

evo_lucian

I tried my manual VSS but my speedo didn't work. The connector was really loose over it so that may have something to do with it.

Im certain the CEL is from the auto lock up solenoid. I used a multimeter across the two solenoids and both measure about 19 ohms. So I am gonna place 2 20ohms resistors on the harness where they used to be. Hopefully the codes will be taken care of.

94EG8

Then the VSS is bad.

tony_2018

Check to see if there are any corrosion in the vss, specifically the 3 pins.

evo_lucian

Possibly, will try it again when we get off from work tomorrow morning.

evo_lucian

Ok so i have my car running on the stock auto ecu successfully without any CEL. I will post pics in the morning to prove it

evo_lucian

As promised pics of my cluster. You can see my speedo working with auto VSS and no CEL . i do have a light for my cat on but I bought the car with it and haven't gotten around to checking it.

evo_lucian

pics of my homemade lower gearbox bracket, you use the mount from the stock auto bracket and this "L" shaped bracket bolts to the gearbox and mount. the silver thing you see in the pics is a 19 socket i used as a pacer because the bolts i had at the time were too long



Custom clutch line. I got the line from a manual LHD car , My car is RHD soo the lines were way too long so i just chopped off the excess from the hardlines and brazed them when i was done.

evo_lucian

No need to swap over to a manual ECU or 2 wire IACV, when doing this conversion. Keep your stock ecu and either unbolt the Lock up solenoids from the top of the auto tranny and leave it connected to the stock auto harness or cut off the solenoid from the harness all together and get two 20 ohm 1/4 watt resistors, solder one end of each resistor to each of the wires that would have gone to the solenoid, solder the other end of the resistors together, add a short length of wire to it and ground it anywhere on the engine/chassis. and you done.

No need for manual ecu swap

tony_2018

Thats actually interesting, thanks for sharing.

evo_lucian

No problem, anything to help out the community. Figured it would cost about $100-150 for the ecu and IACV swap , when u can pick up 2 resistors, some solder and a soldering iron for under $20.