vtec-unicorns

I am looking at a 1994 Del Sol 1.6 Vtec with 122,000 miles. Needs paint, fog lights, left blinker, blower motor, a few indicator lights, radio, and some door handle work. How much do you guys think it is worth?

Thor294

so if I fix the oil burn issue, is it still worth $4500-5k?

airstrike

Just bought a 93 lx civic for $500 from a family friend. It wasn't until after the fact he told me that it was sitting in a parking garage for 5 years. Good news, he is the original owner. Bad news, it was sitting for 5 years. Has 169, xxx on the odo. Thoughts?

JPRhome

Fair price for a auto to manual swap all parts included.

manual trans, manual starter if possible manual front torque bracket,
clutch/flywheel/pressure plate and bolts
slave and master with reservoir, hydraulic lines
pedal assembly, throttle cable
shift linkage, shifter, shift boot and bracket

sorry "edit" 94 DX coupe engine D15B7-D16Z6, EJ2

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Not enough information to tell you.

Mr.EM1

How much is a 92-95 OEM Civic coupe car cover worth? No rips or stains and comes with the bag.

98ekb18c

Looking for a price for my boss on a car we are cleaning up to sell. We've had it a few years, was a street racing impound before that, pd had it for a few years before us. I'll try to get some pics of the interior tomorrow, we are still doing bodywork, so exterior shots are useless right now. Car was probably built around 02/03, so that explains the parts used.

2000 EM1 odometer reads 33k and change. Clean title

Engine:
Ls-VTEC
Looks like a bolt-on GREDDY turbo kit
FMU with secondary inline fuel pump
Custom dual muffler exhaust (no name mufflers)
Aluminum 2 core radiator
Working a/c and p/s
Don't know what tranny
Clutch not overly stiff, might be stock

Suspension:
TEIN full coilovers
Big brake kit up front
17" VOLK GT-P two piece wheels

Interior:
Eclipse flip out screen radio
Short shifter
Shifter lock
Added a/f, oil pressure, temp, volt, boost gauges
White face gauges
Custom blue/silver vinyl interior (dash, seats, door panels, everything below the windows)
Diamond plate floormats ( not rubber that looks like diamond plate, real diamond plate)

Body:
Currently has transparent blue lexan hood, probably not staying on the car. It looked like a fast and furious reject when we got it, graphics, blue flame window tint and all.
We are putting the exterior back to stock, other than an EX spoiler. Will have fresh black paint when sold.

I know the interior alone will limit sales, just looking for thoughts on price here.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

I don't even know what to say to this, other than pics?

Really though, define what engine management (if any) and the condition of the body itself (any rust, warpage, etc.) but the price tag isn't looking too high with the description you gave... except if that Odometer reading is correct and not tampered, 33,xxxMI is the lowest I've seen an EM1 without the odometer being tampered with.

98ekb18c

We bought the car from Copart, so unfortunately we don't know any history on it from the previous owner. I'm guessing the mileage is correct since it was last registered in 2003, but I don't know for sure. Not that I think mileage will even make a difference since so much has been replaced.

It's running a stock ecu with the fmu and second fuel pump. I'm guessing that was common when the car was built. I noticed an AEM fuel rail, so there might be upgraded injectors, but I'm not taking things apart to check.

The body is straight and rust free. We are repainting it for several reasons. Copart loaders aren't kind to huge fiberglass body kits, so the bumpers were ripped off before we got it. Years outside in the sun faded the paint, so when we removed the fast and furious style graphics, the car was almost two tone. And the clearcoat was peeling anyway. Right now the car is combo scuffed/primer. Exterior shots are useless.

I do have some interior shots, not the best but give an idea of how it looks.









The boss swears this is a high dollar car, but he also refuses to believe that the engine isn't a type-r. He's also stuck thinking Hondas are still in very high demand. I'm guessing it will have a value comparable to a regular EM1.

SpeedinThru

Hello,

Looking for advice from a few experts. Is an aluminum radiator necessary when going turbo? I see that Mishimoto is doing a 66% off sale; or up to 66% sale I should say. The radiator I have now is fine, but I have no idea how old it is. Should I be picking one of these up expecting to need one when I an boosted?



That's the email I got yesterday.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

"When I am boosted" is entirely too subjective. Do you need it? Since you're asking, probably not. Would it be a good idea to have? Yeah, it would.

tercel95

Hondas are still in high demand. EM1s seem to have gone up in value by a few grand over the past couple of years. However, this is not one that would be in demand. The car is basically a giant rolling red flag. Lack of history, LS/VTEC done back before it was a well established thing, cheap turbo kit, etc... Nobody is in to the F&F stuff anymore and nobody wants to pay for it. I would think this thing would be worth substantially less than a stock EM1.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

A few things he can do that would help though...
Some of the stock interior like that is just painted over, it'd be worth investigating to either see if it IS just painted and can be removed without damaging it, OR if you'd need to source new interior panels... then again, looking a little harder, it appears to be a vinyl/pleather overlay, jesus.

The seats LOOK to be reupholstered... where they're ugly, I'm sure somebody will get a boner over them.

If you can source an appropriate hood, bumpers, etc. and at least get a primer coat down on all of it that isn't garbage, you could likely pull in 3,000 as a 'work in progress' car... if you could cheaply source the rest of the interior (as close to original as possible), the price goes up.
Craigslist is your friend, deal locally.

tweaver

iTrader: (1)

I'm selling a d16y8 motor and 5 speed trans with unknown miles. I also have the harness, starter, and ecu. What is a fair price to ask for this stuff?

293009

Hello all Honda-Tech users!

I know this isn't a technical thread, but I thought I'd get better response here than in the "Meet and Greet" section, which I already posted this in.

My name is Tyson and I have a dream to own a EK Hatch swapped with a B18B1 LS Motor for reliability and torque reasons. I currently drive a 2002 Ford Explorer and I've loved the 200-some-odd ft/lb of torque and I am going for a LS motor because I know they build torque well and my Explorer has long gears, so why not keep the trend going. I am in California so most of my posts will be about emissions and stuff like that and what's legal, blah, blah, blah. To start off my questions, what are some decent EK mods? I've compiled some of a list, but I'd like to know your guys' preferred mods first.

Thanks and Happy Holidays!

- 293009

09chaplak

This will probably get moved again to a different section of the forum but for starts, check out the FAQ. It has probably ever answer to any question you have.
https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...tions-1998336/
Good luck with your quest for the dream car!

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Why not get a GSR engine instead? More power and same torque...

293009

How do I quote multiple people at once? Thanks! I might just have to save what I get and I need a job to keep my Explorer for now.

Former User

Button to immediate right of the "Quote Post" button.

293009

the ~50hp gain I believe it is isn't feasible for the cost of the swap going up double. I live in California and AFAIK it's extremely hard to BAR anything here, but I will have to talk to my ref, but I probably won't do this until Iget the money. Plus, the GSR, again, AFAIK, produces all of its power in the 5-9000rpm range, and I drive around maybe 4500 max around my area. I'm looking to do basically a factory spec EK hatch with decent suspension and the B18 LS Swap for more torque and long gears. Around here EK hatches go for 2500 or so, I personally probably won't pay more than 3k. The goal is to not be pulled over and have anything to fret about. It's not feasible to spend ~2x what the car cost just for a 75hp gain. I know a shop around here that can get a BAR ready B18 LS cleanly in the car for probably 2k.

293009

When I do this I only see the "Topic Review" section towards the bottom of the page. No other option that I know of that I can see.
'
-edit-

nevermind, I see the option to add multiple quotes to it. Thanks!

Former User

The button turns orange when you click it. Then click the "Quote Post" button in one of the selected posts.

293009

Thank you. I should also tell people that I don't really explore many features on forums, I just post on other places and I guess I should take the time since you guys at h-t seem nice. Thanks!

293009

So as you all may know, those buzzing bee-like exhausts that people put on in high school because they think it's cool and only costs as much as their lunch does sound terrible. I was looking to find a 96-00 ek hatch exhaust that fits well to the bumper, doesn't look like a 4" exhaust to cops, and doesn't attract much attention. I don't like the idea of running a header on a stock exhaust, as the airflow gained will kill the catalysts and mufflers. I'm looking for something that's 2.5 inches or so, just so I can run the B18B1 with a decent tone after I get it checked by the BAR ref. Last thing I want is some cop thinking he's hot s*** and pulls me over because he thinks the motor and exhaust aren't legal, when I would have a sticker on the inside of my door that says otherwise. Anyway, has anyone had experience with Yonaka? They're about 250 for a full catback, which makes me worried. Thanks for your input!

teamleader

found a 94 del sol at the junk yard,most of the parts are there.What should I take off of it for spare parts on my 93 del sol? What parts are hard to find or expensive. I took the p28 ecu and the door handels.