Andre07FG2NBP

This is a thread I created over on 8th but wanted to get your opinion here as well!

Good Evening All,

I am currently working towards a rather huge audio project for my Si. I have already purchased a LOT of items towards it and am about done purchasing everything. I am making this thread to see if I am on the right track and to see if everything sounds about right. If you know someone who is a huge audio nut please pass them this thread. I will begin working on this project August 12th.
The items involved are:
(Again my car is the 2007 Honda Civic Si MT w/Summer Tires NO-Navi)

I own a Pioneer Premier DEH-7700 Deck already

- <U>Scosche HA1561ETB 2006 - Up Honda Civic Radio Dash Kit</U>
- <U>2007 Honda Civic Taupe Dash Radio Wiring Harness</U>
- <U>2006 2007 Honda Civic Radio Antenna Adapter</U>
- <U>PAC SWI-X SWIX Steering Wheel Audio Infared Interface</U>
- <U>Ultimate (B-Quiet) - 50 sq. ft. - w/Dynamat roller</U>

- <U>(2) JBL P1222 12" 2-OHM DVC 400-WATT RMS 1600-WATT Peak</U>
Power Handling, RMS 400 Watts
Power Handling, Peak 1200 Watts
Sensitivity 97dB
Mounting Depth 5-7/8"
Cut-Out Diameter 11-1/16"
Impedance Dual 2 Ohms voice coils can be wired to deliver either a 1 ohm
or 4 ohm load

- <U>(1) JBL GTO1201.1II 1200-WATT Mono Amplifier [115 MAX Amperage]</U>
Power Output 787 watts RMS x 1 channel at 4 ohms and ≤ 1% THD + N
1114 watts RMS x 1 channel at 2 ohms,
14.4V supply and ≤ 1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 70dBa (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power 1339 watts at 2 ohms
Effective Damping Factor 6.348 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response (-3dB) 10Hz - 302Hz
Maximum Input Signal 6.1V
Maximum Sensitivity 140mV
Output Regulation .14dB at 4 ohms
Dimensions (H x W x D) 18-11/16" x 12-5/16" x 2-3/8"

- <U>(1) JBL GTO75.4 4-Channel 520-WATT Amplifier [85 MAX Amperage]</U>
Power Output 104 watts RMS x 4 channel at 4 ohms and ≤ 1% THD + N
284 watts RMS x 2 channel at 4 ohms,
14.4V supply and ≤1% THD + N
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 80 dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Dynamic Power 80 dBA (reference 1 watt into 4 ohms)
Effective Damping Factor 6.384 at 4 ohms
Frequency Response (-3dB) 10Hz - 83kHz
Maximum Input Signal 5.8V
Maximum Sensitivity 230 mV
Output Regulation .069 dB at 4 ohms
Dimensions (H x W x D) 2-3/8" x 15-1/8" x 12-5/16"

- <U>INFINITY KAPPA 60.7cs 6.5" 2 WAY COMPONENT SYSTEM</U>
6 - 1/2" Two-Way Component Systems
Power Handling, RMS:90 Watts
Power Handling, Peak:270Watts
Sensitivity:95dB
Frequency Response:45Hz - 25kHz
Mounting Depth:2-3/16"
Impedance:2 Ohms

- <U>INFINITY KAPPA 62.7i 6.5" 2-WAY SPEAKERS 225 WATTS</U>
Power Handling, RMS: 75 Watts
Power Handling, Peak: 225 Watts
Sensitivity: 94dB
Frequency Response: 45Hz - 25kHz
Mounting Depth: 2 - 3/16"
Impedance: 2 Ohms

- <U>Stinger Pro SWK4D 4 AWG multi-amp wiring kit</U>
* 18 ft. - 4 Gauge Red Custom Pro Power Wire
* 10 ft. – 8 Gauge Red Custom Pro Power Wire
* 10 ft. - 8 Gauge Black Custom Pro Ground Wire
* 17 ft. - 18 Gauge Blue Remote Turn-On Wire
* 1 – 24kt Gold-Plated 4 to 8 Gauge Power Distribution Block
* 1 – 24kt Gold-Plated ANL Fuseholder with Mounting Screws
* 1 - 150 Amp ANL Fuse
* 2 - 4 Gauge Custom Pro Series Gold-Plated Ring Terminals
* 2 - 8 Gauge Custom Pro Series Gold-Plated Ring Terminals
* Custom Pro Series Spade Lugs, Butt Connectors, Mounting Hardware, and
a Plastic Grommet
* 7" Black Wire Ties

I am also currently in emails with Dominick Iraggi for a High Output Alternator (200AMP). I will be purchasing this as soon as he confirms the price and tells me how to pay him.

I do understand to upgrade the positive cable coming from the alternator to the battery to a 1/0AWG (I believe) wire. As well as a 1/0AWG Negative wire grounding it to the chassis.

I have never done the sound deadening part before...I probably could have purchased better stuff but I am already over $1500 worth of audio gear here even with eBay etc; involved.

If anyone can confirm everything here for me as far as: Yes...I will need the High Output Alternator. Yes it is a 1/0AWG recommended size wire connecting the alternator to the battery and likewise grounding it. Yes this all should match up as far as RMS Wattage goes and Amperage.

As far as the box goes, I want to probably just purchase a really nice dual 12" box. I would like it to have a plexiglass front so you can see inside with the two subs mounted on that and a mirror behind them so you can see the backs. I also want to build somewhat of a false floor so I can lay the two amps in that and have a piece of plexiglass just covering those and make it flush with the floor the subs are sitting on.

I have went around and got a crap ton of quotes from local audio installers as far as them installing the Dash kit, my deck, wiring the harnesses together, installing front component, rear component, building the box and the floor, wiring everything, and installing neons in back...average was about $2,000.

That means my audio project would cost me around $3,500.

I am just gonna kinda go at it myself, I have installed my system in my old car , but I am definitely no pro. If anyone has any suggestions as far as websites for boxes, or tutorials for installing everything, please let me know.

I have done a search and believe me, half of what you see in this post is from that. I would have been the jackass who went with a capacitor like the audio shops were saying. Now I know I need to get a High Output Alternator. I've learned what size wires to get. I've learned how to install the dash kit from the DIYs here. I've learned how to snip the plastic off the rear stock speaker spacers so that I can set my new ones right inside.

I just want a final "two thumbs up" from some people saying...ok...you have all the stuff you need...just hook it up.

Thanks all!
-Andre :SHOCKED:


Modified by Andre07FG2NBP at 9:20 PM 7/29/2007

faster Type R

good luck with your project...i just plan on getting an amp for my rear speakers and a sub...and also replace all my stock speakers

and double din navi

yuning83

man, I wish I'm that mechanical/electrically inclined... too complicated for me lol

Ouija

Of all the DIY systems I've done/helped out on, I've learned one thing to be extremely usefull, even though it sucks.

Crutchfield. They have directions for installing just about everything, and give them to you free if you buy stuff from them, but I'm sure they sell them.

If it's not the install, they have really really good info on their site about a good variety of products. I've done a lot of research on their site and their learning site, then buy at millionbuy.

Anyways, I can't say you "need" a high output alternator, but it certainly wouldn't hurt having one.

I've never dealt with the dynomat outside of the trunk. It's pretty straight forward though.

Anyways it seems like you did some reading before you bought everything, looks like it'll all match up nicely.

Anyways best of luck man. I'd tackle my car but I'd rather not deal with the factory harness wiring harness at this time, running new wires, bypassing the amp (or removing it) and the steering wheel control.

Hellzcivic

I think your going to need a Tsunami Capacitor with those amplifiers. I did not see that on your list.

Mik3

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hellzcivic &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I think your going to need a Tsunami Capacitor with those amplifiers. I did not see that on your list.</TD></TR></TABLE>

From skimming through the post, I dont think he need's a cap if he knows which wires to upgrade under the hood.

Others might disagree but I think you should use 1/0 ga wire. I used the Kicker wire and it's very flexible.

If you're using the Scosche harness, the yellow and red wires are switched around i think. Unless they fixed this issue. If you end up blowing a fuse while you're installing the deck, you have the wires switched around. and the Fuse is under the hood...15 i believe. I know this because i had to check all my fuses. I am not sure if they fixed it or not yet.

JTaudio0212

Good choice on audio equipment! JBL and Infinity are made by the same company, and they make amazing products, I have nothing but infinity in my Si. But as far as a high output alternator, it is definitly not needed, you are only running not even 2000 watts, which I highly doubt you will be running that consistently, save yourself the hassle and get a capacitor, doesn't matter what brand, but you are going to be looking for a 2 farad cap. usually about a hundred dollars a farad, thats average, but it is recommended to have a farad running for every thousand watts of power. As far as a DIY install, the speakers are really easy to install, the thing thats going to be a pain in the ***, is the radio/amps.

Another thing is, if you are running a 4 channel amp, why dont you just re-run the wiring from the amp and save yourself the hassle of messing with the factory amp, although I haven't used a factory radio harness or even attempted to find the factory amp so I cant really say which one will be easier or harder, but off of the 4 channel, the only thing you need to run is the RCA's to the headunit and the speaker wires to the speakers, and the rears are cake because theyre in the deck.

Installing the rear speakers are easy, pop the grill off and youre good to go, as far as the front doors, I remember them coming off really smooth, with a little force. Theyre clipped in and theres a few screws in the panel itself, none of them are too hidden. Mounting the radio in the dash kit is easy as well.

Honestly everything isnt too bad, if you have anymore questions re-post with them, I tend to jump from topic to topic really easily

oh, and good luck with the firewall

JTaudio0212

06-07 Civic Radio Wiring Diagram

Andre07FG2NBP

Thank you so much for your replies!

I guess I was worried about the High Output Alternator (which I still haven't purchased yet), was because the maximum current draw from the JBL GTO1201.1II Amplifier is 115A, and the maximum current draw from the JBL GTO75.4 Amplifier is 85A.

So I added those two together and got 200A.

The car itself, from what I've read, uses about 30-40A running. So I was looking at getting a 200A Alternator due to all of that.

I could be reading things wrong...I'm not sure, the website where I got the maximum current draw was from the manual or something on the JBL Amps located here: http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/...m.pdf

Second page on that PDF and right hand side.

As far as getting a capacitor...I've always heard that they are just a band-aid on a bleeding wound that doesn't seem to help. I get the concept, the speakers use up the juice that the capacitor has in stock so that it doesn't drain it from the alternator etc; ...but...I dunno, there are just so many mixed reviews on it.

Dominick is actually not answering my emails, he must be really busy or something. I know it is going to cost me somewhere around $400-500 so if I can just get a capacitor or something that would definitely help me out.

How would this one work out for me: http://www.tsunamionline.com/product.php?id=58

I know on the 20 Farad or 30 Farad ones they start talking about 16 volt operation...meaning...I need 16 volts to feed in to it?

I know stock voltage is 12.5v? and with the high output alternator I jump to 14.5v? ...like I said, I may be looking at something weird.

How high of a capacitor can I get from TSUNAMI (I'd like to stick with that brand)...without requiring a voltage upgrade?

And would a 10 Farad Cap be overkill...but in a good way?

-Andre

JTaudio0212

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Andre07FG2NBP &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Thank you so much for your replies!

I guess I was worried about the High Output Alternator (which I still haven't purchased yet), was because the maximum current draw from the JBL GTO1201.1II Amplifier is 115A, and the maximum current draw from the JBL GTO75.4 Amplifier is 85A.

So I added those two together and got 200A.


-Andre</TD></TR></TABLE>

A 10 farad cap is wayyyy over kill, when you get a cap over a few farads they're usually called "hybrid cps" because they dont run the same as a normal cap...

You are suppost to match the fuse in-line with the wiring you bought for the amps at the same rated amperage that your amps are drawing, so with the wiring you bought you think a 4 gauge wire, with a distribution block with 8 gauge going to amps will be enough? Not even close, but it will work because there is no way in hell you will be drawing 200 amps from 2 JBL amps, that wont even be running 2000 watts consistent, I PROMISE!

Get a 2-3 farad cap, upgrade your wiring from scosche, to something that has a lot more stands in it, but DO NOT run 8 gauge to those amps off of a 4 gauge distribution block.

Capacitors wouldn't be a band-aid if they didn't work.

Bulli Kid

yah i was thinking 8 gauge is way to small u should be using the smallest thing out there .

Andre07FG2NBP

Alright so finally yesterday I got my car back.

I must say, wow...I am very impressed at their work. Especially since I was thinking it was going to look a lot more vague. It reps not only Honda, but Si in general and JBL. Very cool.

Here...are the pics!












Random other shots with my wheels and license plate flip:





Thanks all for your assistance and time!
-Andre

(Edit: If you know anyone who needs the OEM speakers/sub and the dash piece...PM me. We can work out a deal. Everything still works simply plug and play with the replacements.)

Andre07FG2NBP

Ah cmon guys give me some feedback here.

Greg50Lt

system looks supper hot not a fan of the rims. good work

yuning83

Sound system looks real hot!

Andre07FG2NBP

Thanks!

Yeah I've heard that a few times in regards to the rims. I like'um but not many others do.

Hmm...just got them a month ago too. Oh well, might have to bite'um for awhile while I get other parts.

-Andre

jo3design

maybe I missed it, but how much did this run you?

VERY nice!!

EDIT: just saw it... $3,500 is definitely not bad for the custom work. I'm diggin it.

Andre07FG2NBP

Thanks a lot!

Yeah it was $3,500 for all audio equipment, wires, harnesses, adaptors, dash kit, etc; etc; and all the custom work.

It sounds sooooo good. I sound deadened my back plate last night, only thing that rattles is the spoiler.

I believe there are some cushion things or something you can buy and place those in between the base of it and the chassis. I'll have to look in to it.

Thanks again for your feedback.

-Andre