0doc@tirerack

Good stuff !

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Employee pricing. LUCKEEEEEEHHH

junkyard racer

Retail pricing is almost the same an insurance deductible

I've saved myself many times by being able to stop and turn when I wanted to with winter tires.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I love snow tires. I'm just saying its nice to have employee pricing. No strings attached to that statement.

Except maybe.....I would have bought summer wheels/tires...and then used my stock wheels to mount snow tires. But luckily, you get emplpyee pricing good enough to buy a decent set of wheels for winter as well.

junkyard racer

I'm sure there will be some debate, and quite honestly I am not interested in debating this.

First oil change happened tonight. 2500- miles, it got a dose of Mobil 1 ow20 and a OE Honda filter.

Why might you ask....well, I haven't been easy on the car since the car turned 1k miles, including 2 20min track sessions of 5k rpms+ for 20 min straight.

I feel it needed an oil change. I'm not a believer in 5k mile oil. Maybe in a low RPMS granny driver, sure. An engine that see abuse...I'm not a believer that the oil is good for 5k miles.

MessGSR

i have a 14' si 4dr...love it best DD i've had. anyone ever drive one with a flash and intake..thats about as far as i wanna go with my dd. im finding it hard to drop 600.00 on flashpro and another 300.00 on a intake.....

OneBadTurboCRV

Not a good idea. I am not interested in debating either. I already had my rounds with Honda from my top end and VTC failures. If you are not using Honda 0w20 in your car they can deny your warranty claim on an engine related failure. Call BS all you want, but they sent out oil samples and everything. Luckily I was using the Honda **** water full synthetic 0w20 from the first oil change so I wasn't worried.

On a side note you do know Mobil 1 has been pure **** for a few years now right? Look up some Blackstone tests if you don't believe me.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You don't have to be a granny driver to change oil every 5k miles. My TSX's oil is fine after 8K miles.

Mobil1 isn't really the best oil for these motors, as proven via tons of UOA's. And I'd like to get an HONEST, off the record opinion from a Honda engineer about 0W20. Especially for track use.

I would love to recommend Castrol 0W30 (not in winter because its extremely thick) for your use. I would recommend it if the bearing clearances and oil pump design was the same as previous gen K series engines. But...I don't know that for sure.

Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 would be a very safe bet for DD and track use with that engine.

I change my S2000's oil every 4 or 5 track days (about 1-2k street miles at that point). If it was my mixed DD/track car, I'd use something like 4 track days or 4K miles...whichever came first. I would probably do 1-2 track days when using conventional. Then again....I did come back from a track weekend and then drive from the chicago burbs to vegas, SoCal, NM, TX, CO, and back to IL...all on the same 10W30 castrol GTX conventional. Used conventional in my ITR as well (lots of track time), and changed it every 3500ish miles.

I had to let go of gripes with manufacturer oil change recs. My GF's new car comes with free maintenance and they recommend 10k mile oil changes right off the bat (no break in oil change). "Because they use synthetic" is what they said. I was going to protest...but then I realized that we bought an extended warranty and the maintenance schedule is free (so it'll always be documented and done at the dealer). So...they can do whatever they want. We're covered.

junkyard racer

Okay, so now we are going to debate. Grab a beer.

With my friend Google and the last hour or so, I haven't found anything to back your claim. Care to elaborate?

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Which claim?

junkyard racer

This. ^ And also OneBadTurboCRV mention of how horrible Mobil1 is.

===========

I've used mobil1 in all of my Honda motors (this is my first K) with -0- issues. I had great results and never an issue.

Everything I've read this afternoon and this evening points to positive results with M1 0w30 and 5.30 in the k24. In fact, I haven't read any 'my engine is trashed' from m1 oil comments and that actually is what I was looking for. You sorta make it seem as those these UOA facts are all over the place.

I did find where there was a injector and VTC issue causing oil issues, but was solved with a electronic update.
POLL: 2012 Civic Si Burning Oil

I read a few comments on sprint car forums (where a K24 is a spec motor) Ariel Atom forums, and even was checking out some Formula Lite Series talk....Mobil1 all was part of the discussion, in a positive way. Hell, M1 is found in some of the HPD Formula Lites testing photos posted on FB and other media outlets.

There does seem to be some debate between a 3k and 5k and even 10k mile changes, however. IDK...I am just not sold on a long interval oil changes. And yes, I have read the oil analysis posted with positive results. At the expense of about $35 with a OE Honda filter, I still have yet to find a reason to go longer on oil changes other than 'because you can' mentality.

Just to be clear, not calling you a liar, calling you out, or anything like that, just want to know where you have found your claims. I quite honestly didn't even put any thought to what oil to put in the car. Just have always used Mobil1 oil in my Hondas and didn't even second guess it.
You have me second guessing myself now.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Well, you wont have motor failure from using it. Its oil. You can use the cheapest bulk conventional oil that you would use at an oil change place and the car will probably still run flawlessly for 200+k miles.

I will say that M1 has been linked to a few bad things:
-S2000 early TCT (timing chain tensioner) failures. Seems a lot of M1 users had more/more frequent issues than others.
-Burn off. M1 is notorious for burning off...especially in Hondas. If your honda doesn't burn M1, it is PRISTINE. Side note: I've had a B series car and 2 S2000's that didn't burn M1!!

Here's a UOA between M1 and Pennzoil on a k24:

http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/1st-gen-car-care/61660-results-mobil-1-ep-v-pennzoil-ultra.html

M1 isn't going go make the engine blow up or something. It's just that there seems to be better oil out there. Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 has kind of made a name for itself...especially in K series engines.

Kimsey099

Thank you for posting this review. I have been trying to find something useful before I make my purchase and you are the first person to do that.

As far as oil goes have you ever thought of running motul ? I run motul oil in all the cars I have owned since I drive them hard and do track days. ( 04em2 , 03 Wrx , 06wrx and 13 evo Gsr)
I have found that motul works the best in these high-temp a High sheer applications where you burn oil if it can't stand the test. My 06 Wrx had perfect engine compression when I sold it at 105k miles which is considered amazing for a subie.

Looks like when I get this civic my first mods are going to be hawk HP+ pads ( my fav DD/track day pad) and Motul RBF600 fluid. Might as well throw in some RS3 too lol. I have a slight inkling to throw my evo X track wheels on the car for ***** and giggles since they are 18x8.5 +30 with 245/40/18 RS3s on them but that would probably be too much tire for this application.

Looking forward to see more updates I will be sure to post mine when I get a chance. I live in Southern California so we have a 12 month track season and the luxury of about 5 really good road courses to choose from as well.

junkyard racer

I envy you.

Good tires, brakes and fluid will do wonders to this car.

Congrats on the purchase!

FYI, brakes are the same from 2012+ according to my local parts dept. Can anyone confirm?

GoldieWang

Always used Mobil 1 5w30 in my turbo 08 Cobalt SS and it always burnt off oil...lol of course it was a cobalt though...

B serious

iTrader: (1)

Thats not too much tire at all. Those should fit under the fenders with minimal work.

255/40/17 front and 225 or 235/45 rear would probably be the best sizing.

Fazzster

I am back with Honda after a very long hiatus. I will confess, I had become a hater. I was a teen back in the 80's and was a devout Honda believer. I had CRX's, Civics, Preludes you name it. In 2002 I bought a new S2000 and that was the pinnacle for me. After that car, I watched Honda slowly lose their way and defected to Subaru for a time when the WRX finally made its way to America. After that I was astray in the auto world with no allegiance to any one manufacturer. I was a ***** bouncing from Mini to Mazda then to the Germans with Audi and VW and now a BMW. I have driven everything and probably have more seat time than many so called journalist trashing this car. But when I saw Honda do something that I viewed as very "un-Honda", taking the fine 2013 Civic Si and addressing a few of its short coming and making it better all in just one model year. I knew there are still some lights on at Honda and the Si was worth a look. Call it a mid life crisis and a yearning to return my CRX drive'n youth, but I feel like I have come home again. I am completely enamored with this car. All of the hating this car receives from the drive-by posters on Youtube and the nit pickers from the auto rags seem to have no place in reality. I will tell you unequivocally, this car is worlds more fun to drive than a Mk6 GTI. How do I know? Because I owned 2013 and put about 35k on her. The Si is a jewel. I am pretty confident Honda is getting back on track again and I look forward to staying married to this brand. I think my VTEC is back again......yo....

Kimsey099

I too started in the Honda world , went to a subie , then a 2013 Evo GSR, but consumables for tracking just became to much for me to afford and live life properly. So when I saw what Honda had done to bring the performace back into their cars and HONDA/McLaren moving back into f1 I knew it was the right choice for me. After the test drive I knew it's what I wanted. I am so happy with car and have done 300miles local driving in the 3days I have had the car (free tank of gas from dealer had to use it). I can't wait to finish the breakin so I can really see what it can do.

Here are some of my other cars I have had through the years.

junkyard racer

I'm glad to hear I am not the only one who see's this model Si as a very good step in the right direction for Honda. I still think its very good, but not great.

Congrats on purchases!

In a stock SCCA class, an alignment can be modified. Does anyone know what the factory alignment specs are for the 2013-2014 Si? Also the factory roll/sway bar sizes

Here are some specs from the FD 2 which I found on a UK R owners forum. To my knowledge the FD R was a very oversteer-happy FWD car. Several mentions of it in the Best Motoring video.
Suspension Information (alignment spec, stabilizer bar size))

Front Anti Roll Bar - 26mm
Rear Anti Roll Bar - 21mm

Camber Front -0"30' + 30' / - 30'
Rear -1"30 +1"05' / - 0"45'

Caster Front 6"55' +1" / -1"

Toe Front 0 +/- 2mm
Rear 2 +2mm / -1mm

Bwill9886

Eibach has them listed on their Sportline page:

2012-13 HONDA CIVIC - SPORTLINE | eibach.com/america

Sway bars:

2013 - Front= 21mm, Rear=18mm
2014 - Front= 21mm, Rear=20mm

Kimsey099

The real answer to this is factory allignment is never where it should be its just close. Get the car properly aligned to a good spec and it will drive much better. It's the first thing I do with my cars when I buy them. Sadly you don't live in socal so I can't send you to my guy. But when I get the car aligned I will share what settings we came up with here.

junkyard racer

I found this:

RedShift 06 Civic Tech

DaveSi677

yup and that is also posted on the first page of the track thread we have in this section...

both the 8th and 9th came with very neutral suspension alignment.

Basically 0 camber up front and a tad in the rear.
Toe was at 0 all around also.

You want a light street tweak:
front camber : -1.5
rear camber : -1.0
Toe: 0 all around

Mild Street:
front camber : -2.0
rear camber : -1.5
Toe: 0 all around

Street/track:
front camber : -2.5
rear camber : -2.0
Toe: 0 all around

Mild track:
front camber : -3.0
rear camber : -2.5
Toe: 0 all around

Full track:
front camber : -3.5 (or if you do something mods you can get up too -4.5)
rear camber : -3.0
Toe: This will depend on what kinda of track. Some nimble track you would want some toe out in the front so you have quicker turn in and better in corner handling.
Long high speed track you want some toe out in the rear from more high speed stability.

b16racereg6

iTrader: (2)

Sweet snows and wheels my buddy's has them on his mini! 13 SI is ok never drove a 14 I'm sure it's not much different I would buy one. The stock tires are junk and will be dead fast!

junkyard racer

Thanks Dave!

If you haven't read the thread, you can see I despise (is that a better word for hate?) these tires on this car. I now have about 3300 miles on the car and have managed to destroy the factory tires. haha! I do drive it very hard and the few lapping sessions didn't help either.

I haven't put my winters on yet, but need to SOON! I am hearing of an auto-x on a lake in Wisconsin this winter, lets see how that plays out.