key dilemma
#1
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key dilemma
so, my wife has been saying her range has gotten terrible with her 2007 Si sedan key. i urged her to not be afraid and figure it out. i didn't hear anything since then so i decided when i was at home depot today to disassemble my copy, check the battery size and buy a battery for her.
turns out this morning she set out to resolve it too, only she stripped the screw terribly on the case. it will not come out no matter what is done. she went to my workbench and tried a driver that is obviously too big even though i build RC cars and have a wide selection of small drivers. she then took the thing to the local hardware store and the idiot tried to pry the case open. i knew nothing of any of this and this is what i get for telling her to handle something like this. i tried to get it out and there is no hope.
the little programmable insert is surely ok, so i could crack the case and get that thing out. i see some blank key 4 button honda cases on ebay that are like $10, but i'm not interested in anything but a true OE option.
here is the OE blowup: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...INATION+SWITCH
i'm going to try to get 8, 9 and 10 (35113-SVA-306, 35114-SNA-A01 and 35116-SDA-A11) in that image, swap the internals out of this one and get the key cut at Honda. i hope it's that easy. i can picture them trying to just sell me all of part 7 (35111-SVA-306) - but at least i could still swap out the guts instead of having them program the new piece.
turns out this morning she set out to resolve it too, only she stripped the screw terribly on the case. it will not come out no matter what is done. she went to my workbench and tried a driver that is obviously too big even though i build RC cars and have a wide selection of small drivers. she then took the thing to the local hardware store and the idiot tried to pry the case open. i knew nothing of any of this and this is what i get for telling her to handle something like this. i tried to get it out and there is no hope.
the little programmable insert is surely ok, so i could crack the case and get that thing out. i see some blank key 4 button honda cases on ebay that are like $10, but i'm not interested in anything but a true OE option.
here is the OE blowup: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...INATION+SWITCH
i'm going to try to get 8, 9 and 10 (35113-SVA-306, 35114-SNA-A01 and 35116-SDA-A11) in that image, swap the internals out of this one and get the key cut at Honda. i hope it's that easy. i can picture them trying to just sell me all of part 7 (35111-SVA-306) - but at least i could still swap out the guts instead of having them program the new piece.
#2
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Re: key dilemma
you can just buy a key bank i've seen customers do it over here and put your internals in it just bring your vin number so they can get the right code to cut your key
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Re: key dilemma
yeah the parts guy didn't seem to have an issue with that. the parts cost me about $25 before tax and apparently they don't charge to cut the key, but of course do charge to program it through service...but all signs are saying i don't need that, just the cut.
this will be quite a financial relief if i can get this done with one trip to the dealer and ~$25.
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Re: key dilemma
I got my red H key case from ijdmtoy.com for $15.
carefully drill out the screw head, remove the back, and use a pair of pliers to twist out the remaining threads of the screw.
You'll probably have to get a new screw from a jeweler but that might be the cheapest option.
how badly damaged is the front with the buttons?
carefully drill out the screw head, remove the back, and use a pair of pliers to twist out the remaining threads of the screw.
You'll probably have to get a new screw from a jeweler but that might be the cheapest option.
how badly damaged is the front with the buttons?
#6
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Re: key dilemma
I got my red H key case from ijdmtoy.com for $15.
carefully drill out the screw head, remove the back, and use a pair of pliers to twist out the remaining threads of the screw.
You'll probably have to get a new screw from a jeweler but that might be the cheapest option.
how badly damaged is the front with the buttons?
carefully drill out the screw head, remove the back, and use a pair of pliers to twist out the remaining threads of the screw.
You'll probably have to get a new screw from a jeweler but that might be the cheapest option.
how badly damaged is the front with the buttons?
#7
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Re: key dilemma
well i got all the parts and they cut the key...and it doesn't work. the internals work, the stuff i swapped in, but the actual key part doesn't turn the ignition or open the door. i noticed that after they cut it the routed (cut) part doesn't look exactly like the OG key. the machine was just a sidewinder key cutter that apparently patterns the new key after a scan of the OG key. it didn't do a very good job lol.
anyway, now i have to call the parts guy again, have them order another and go through this again. this time i'm bringing the car with me.
anyway, now i have to call the parts guy again, have them order another and go through this again. this time i'm bringing the car with me.
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#8
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Re: key dilemma
so an update for posterity.
i got the second key cut. it too didn't work. same thing: it opened the door but didn't budge in the ignition.
sooo, this time, it was the parts manager that cut it, and he hit it with a wire wheel and a file in spots. it's apparent the older keys were thinned out a bit and the tumbler were worn to them.
after 20 minutes of massaging with the wheel and file, it worked perfectly.
i got the second key cut. it too didn't work. same thing: it opened the door but didn't budge in the ignition.
sooo, this time, it was the parts manager that cut it, and he hit it with a wire wheel and a file in spots. it's apparent the older keys were thinned out a bit and the tumbler were worn to them.
after 20 minutes of massaging with the wheel and file, it worked perfectly.
#12
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Re: key dilemma
there is a reason for it. keys wear out - they get thin and rounded. so, if you simply cut by the VIN, if it's a late gen ignition cylinder with really sensitive yet worn tumblers (my wife's car has 100k, almost all local miles), the VIN cut key won't be as exact as copying a worn out key.
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