GuItArMaN8373

Hey guys, totally new here and hoping I will be able to find an answer to this strange issue I've been having with my Honda.

First of all, it's an '01 Honda Civic Sedan, with about 101,000 miles on it and with a VTEC engine. Automatic transmission.

I've been taking it to a NAPA service shop for routine maintenance since I've had it. All has been well with it, until about a month or so ago. I noticed one morning when I went off to work, that the malfunction indicator light was on. Thought that was odd, but went on my way to work as usual, figured I'd get it checked out later on in the week.

On my way to work however, I noticed something strange. When I got the car up to about 40 mph or more, and started to release on the accelerator pedal, the car would jerk. If I then started the press down on the accelerator pedal to give it more gas, it'd jerk again. It's almost like there is a certain pivot point at which the car will jerk when the accelerator is pressed or released, a point where the engine is given no gas at all? This "point" is when I push the pedal down about 1/4 of the way to the floor. So the only way to drive without it jerking is to either give it a ton of gas, or not much at all.

Another strange symptom is this: When I parked at work, and let it idle in "Park". The RPMs were way over normal. Normally it's a little under 1000, but this time it was at about a constant 1500. Also, the engine would continuously make a "revving/chugging" sound, almost like a "rum, rum, rum" sort-of sound. The RPMs seem to stay at the abnormal 1500 when it's idling, but the sound the engine makes can be felt and heard and it is certainly not right. Another thing to note: when I turned the air conditioner on, the RPMs dropped about a half of the way down, and the engine stopped making the strange sound. The RPMs were still higher than normal though.

So I after work, I decided I needed to get it to the NAPA service center ASAP. However, when I started my car, it was back to normal. The light was still on, but other than that, RPMs and all were back where they should be.

None the less, I took it to the service center so they could see what was up. They read the error code and I believe they said it had something to do with a filter of some sort. But they said it was nothing to worry about, might have just been a bad tank of gas, so they reset the computer and the light was off for the rest of my driving that day. Everything seemed fine, until the next morning, when the same issue happened AGAIN. Same exact scenario. And currently, it's still happening to me.

It seems to me, that when the air heats up outside, the issue resolves itself. Whenever I get up very early, about 7am or so, and start the car, it has the issue, because it's cooler outside. But if I start the car in the afternoon, when it's extremely hot out, then the issue is gone. I live in GA, so it's very humid in the summer and very hot, usually in the 90s.

When it's cooler out, I have the issue, when it's warmer out, the issue hides itself.

I'm almost certain the temperature has something to do with my issue at this point, maybe humidity as well?

Other notes: I bought a new gas cap for the car to see if that would help at all, and it didn't make any difference. I also tried filling up at different gas stations, and still no difference.

I thought it may be the fuel filter ... but apparently '01 Civics don't have fuel filters, just some sort of mesh filter somewhere in the fuel system that rarely needs repair/replacement? Is this true?

I'm young, and my experience is with computers, not cars, so I really need as much help as I can get please.

If you guys need ANY other information about this issue, please just let me know and I will provide.

Thanks a bunch!

- Chris

GriFFIthS

Not true, they do have a Filter, its inside your gas tank, its apart of the fuel sending Unit, you can get to it by removing your back seats and removing the cover from the top of the gas tank. theres a DIY here for it, I just replaced mine, 140,000 km's and mine was plugged up really bad, major difference since i changed it.

Thats the wriet-up i used to change mine.
http://www.civicforums.com/forums/10...placement.html

Pothole987

Sounds like your IVAC is dirty, or the motor in the IVAC is getting bad.

So the MIL isn't on now?

GuItArMaN8373

Is this http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/de...QQSIAC261.html what you were referring to Pothole? It's all I could find.

And no the MIL is still on, it will sometimes turn off when the issue goes away, but when it happens again, the light comes back on.

I will definitely go ahead and order the parts to replace the fuel system since it seems like it'll be fairly easy and cheap to do.

Thanks!

It Wasn't Me

Scan if for stored codes. That will help us narrow down the issue and provide remedial input.

sneaker51

Does it sound like the engine is mis-firing? I bet you have a piston out of synch. Have someone plug in an engine diagnostic on your car to find out what the error code is, which is why your light on your dash is blinking at you.

And never go to Napa again. Trust me. Not even the dealer is safe. Do your own oil changes and routine maintenance. They probably threw junk oil and base line filters in your car and charged you 12 bucks.

DCRB

you say a piston out of sync, yet you say to not to go to napa eh? that's interesting. o/p, i'd also check electrical connections. if condensation is building up on a connector some where it could be shorting it out, then drying out when it warms up. it's a long shot, but a possibility none the less

Pothole987

Your a god damn winner. Seriously. 12 bucks for an oil change? i pay 10 Just for an effing filter. It usually helps to WATCH them while they work on my car.

and to be honest i have never looked for my IVAC on my car, but older gen hondas have the issue too. Check your coolant also when the car is dead cold. Sometimes the Di-electric strip will make it rev funny when the coolant is low.

sneaker51

mis-firing cylinder in my opinion...

and I wasn't saying that I pay 12 bucks for an oil change, I'm saying that if you pay 12 bucks for an oil change you may get sub-standard oil/filter, which could cause an issue like the one he is having with his car.

That being said, I do all of my own oil changes and use only Royal Purple...so there!

sneaker51

and yes, haha, piston out of synch, im a moron, but im just here trying to learn and offer advice given my experience owning hondas. I definitely defer opinion to those who know more, but at least I try to do all of my own maintenance!

Pothole987

if a piston becomes out of synch, it will cause more than a misfire. you will need a tow truck.
if you don't know it is best not to comment because i know in another thread another user posted to pour tranny fluid in the gas tank. WHICH ISNT RECOMMENDED.

sneaker51

Riiight I hear you. My terminology was wrong, but I meant cylinder mis-fire in my head

GuItArMaN8373

Guys please, can we stay on topic? Thank you.

Anyway, got the code scanned, came back P1519, Idle Air Control Valve. The said for everything, it'll cost about $348, parts and labor. Reasonable? And based upon the symptoms and issues I listed before, will this part indeed fix all those problems?

Thanks!

It Wasn't Me

I'd troubleshoot it first, before I ran out and bought replacement parts.

1. Reset the ECU by removing the #6 (15A) fuse from the fuse box located under the hood. Leave it out for a minute before you put it back in.

2. Turn the ignition ON (II) - Is the MIL still on and producing code P1519?
Yes - Go to step 3
No - Intermittent failure. Check for poor connections or loose terminals at the ECU and at the IACV

3. Turn the ignition off and disconnect the IACV 3-pin connector.

4. Turn the ignition back ON (II) and measure the voltage between terminal #2 of the IACV connector and a body ground. (see picture below)
Is there battery voltage?
Yes - Go to step 5
No - There's an open in the wire between the IACV and the PGM-FI main relay. Locate and repair it.

5. Turn the ignition off and check for continuity between IACV terminal #1 and a body ground.
Is there continuity?
Yes - Go to step 6
No - There's an open in the wire between the IACV and G101. Locate and repair it.

6. Disconnect ECM/PCM Connector A (31-Pin) and check for continuity between terminal #12 and a body ground.
Is there continuity?
Yes - There's a short in the wire between the IACV and terminal #12. Locate and repair it.
No - Go to step 7

7. Connect terminal #3 of the IACV connector to a body ground with a jumper wire and check for continuity between ECM/PCM terminal #12 and a body ground.
Is there continuity?
Yes - Go to step 8
No - There's an open in the wire between the IACV and ECM/PCM #12. Locate and repair it.

8. Reconnect the IACV 3-Pin connector and turn the ignition ON (II), then measure the voltage between ECM/PCM terminal #12 and a body ground.
Is there battery voltage?
Yes - Update the ECM/PCM if it does not have the latest software, or substitute it with a known-good one, then recheck. If the symptom/indication goes away, replace the original ECM/PCM with a good one.
No - Replace the IACV

GuItArMaN8373

I forget to mention, they tested the IACV, it was dead/failing.

It Wasn't Me

Oh, well in that case Click here and buy the part. Illustration #1 - Part number 16022-PLC-J01

It's easy to replace it yourself. There's really no need to pay shop-costs.