2001 Honda Civic ex

Hi, as you may have expected, I have a 2001 honda civic ex. Just got it 5 days ago, private sale. The car ran fine for about 150 miles. Then yesterday it hogged up a little in first and second gear, but then ran fine for 25+miles. I was almost home when it almost stalled in 5th gear and the check engine light came on (cel). I pulled over, checked everything (I had just switched over to synthetic oil that day - mobile one 5-20) all the fluids were fine, temperature was fine. I started back up and drove another 2 miles, when it lost all power and would barely maintain 40mph in 4th gear. I pulled again for a few minutes. I then drove it home and it ran fine for the final 6 or 7 miles.

I put injector cleaner that removes water. And changed the air filter. THen this morning I wanted to go for a drive to make sure it was fixed. It ran beautiful for 15 miles, then in 5th gear at 55mph, stalled and the cel came on. I pulled over, and started it back up, it was in limp mode. And would not come out of limp mode. Got it back home at 20mph and after it rested for an hour and cooled down, it was out of limp mode, and ran fine again. The code it is throwing is P1362 which is the TDC code, or camshaft position sensor. Is this sensor most likely the real cause, or could it be something else? Any ideas and opinions are welcome.

Black99EM1

p1362 is linked to your ignition system. best bet is to replace the distributor. while you're at it a new distributor cap if one doesnt come on the new dist. also do plugs and wires if you haven't recently. i had this same problem in my 99 si without all the stalling, just CEL and no vtec. i changed the plugs, wires and cap but still had the same code. after changing the distributor problem solved. good luck!

nsrkeeper

the p1362 definition is: manufacturer control ignition system or misfire.

Black99EM1

i believe thats the generic code.. honda specific is TDC no signal.. just delt with this on my 99 si replacing the distributor fixed it, unfortunately i did that last after plugs, wires, cap, rotor, and external coil haha oh well

StuntmanMike

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black99EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">p1362 is linked to your ignition system. best bet is to replace the distributor. while you're at it a new distributor cap if one doesnt come on the new dist. also do plugs and wires if you haven't recently. i had this same problem in my 99 si without all the stalling, just CEL and no vtec. i changed the plugs, wires and cap but still had the same code. after changing the distributor problem solved. good luck!</TD></TR></TABLE>

This is why you don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about...

D17 has no distributor, or plug wires. Coil on Plug from factory.

DsevenEm2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by StuntmanMike &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

This is why you don't give advice unless you know what you're talking about...

D17 has no distributor, or plug wires. Coil on Plug from factory.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Haha thank you!

Anyways regardless, your CPS is linked to your ignition system anyway. Take it to a dealership, the sensor probably just went bad. If you could find it on your own, disconnect the wires and use a test light or meter and start testing the sensor itself. Key on power and what not and see what readings you get. It's a 5 volt system and can easily be checked if its working or not. Its a two wire system by the way. If you need help figuring out how to do this and dont have a service manual, let me know and I can help you figure it out.

If it threw that code, the sensor is either faulty, the wiring is bad, the sensor is loose. That sort of thing.. other wise it wouldn't go into limp mode dont worry, im 99.999999% positive its nothing mechanical, just a little electrical fault

Black99EM1

since the guy asked for any ideas or opinions i told him what fixed my problem on my car. i dont take time to research other peoples engines. nobody responded to this guy in 15 days, so if i was no help oh well at least i tried to help before any of you know it alls. i came to this site with a question about p1362 and no one helped out at all, so i figured it out on my own. it would have been nice to get any input at all; wrong or right. anyways hope u fix it bro limp mode sucks i missed my vtec so much while it was gone.

DsevenEm2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Black99EM1 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">since the guy asked for any ideas or opinions i told him what fixed my problem on my car. i dont take time to research other peoples engines. nobody responded to this guy in 15 days, so if i was no help oh well at least i tried to help before any of you know it alls. i came to this site with a question about p1362 and no one helped out at all, so i figured it out on my own. it would have been nice to get any input at all; wrong or right. anyways hope u fix it bro limp mode sucks i missed my vtec so much while it was gone.</TD></TR></TABLE>

lol

ash4usc09

Hello. I'm having the close to the same problem with my Civic. It's a 2001 automatic EX. I will be driving the car when it starts pulling then completely loses power. It happens randomly also. For instance, the car will run like brand new for over a week then do this for a couple of days... then back to running fine. I have had many people put in their opinions on this one: could be the fuel injection/tank, distributor, crank shaft sensor. The code given, which I can't remember exactly now, said TDC and started with P. The guy told me that indicated the crank shaft sensor. I haven't taken it to the dealership yet because I don't want to get screwed on cost. However, I also don't want to get screwed period on what the problem is... the shop it's sitting at now, waiting to be looked at, the guy swears it's probably the distributor... but I've also had someone tell me that mine doesn't have one. Any advice?

susuking

i had the code once too, TDC sensor no signal. tried Cam sensor, it work, check the Crank sensor, found that it doesn't send signal causing the engine to go into limp mode because it does not know where the crank is. Hope that helps

spoonfedcrx

honda has a service bulletin out.
probable cause excessive camshaft endplay.
fix-replace cylinder head assembly.
first step is to check camshaft endplay-max is .5 mm.

i would worry im 99.9999999999999% sure its mechanical

DsevenEm2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by ash4usc09 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Hello. I'm having the close to the same problem with my Civic. It's a 2001 automatic EX. I will be driving the car when it starts pulling then completely loses power. It happens randomly also. For instance, the car will run like brand new for over a week then do this for a couple of days... then back to running fine. I have had many people put in their opinions on this one: could be the fuel injection/tank, distributor, crank shaft sensor. The code given, which I can't remember exactly now, said TDC and started with P. The guy told me that indicated the crank shaft sensor. I haven't taken it to the dealership yet because I don't want to get screwed on cost. However, I also don't want to get screwed period on what the problem is... the shop it's sitting at now, waiting to be looked at, the guy swears it's probably the distributor... but I've also had someone tell me that mine doesn't have one. Any advice?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Im trying to help people as much as possible.

You dont have a distributor so scratch that. Spark is timed and "distributed" directly to the coils from the ECM.

Find out the exact code. Go to autozone/discount auto and have them run a scan tool.

If it's the CKP sensor, take it to a dealership. They can figure out if the sensor is bad. If you can read a wiring diagram and find out which wires and where they are for your CKP then I could explain to you how to test them. Given that you actually have a Volt meter to test them with. If not, save yourself the hassle and take it to a dealership.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">honda has a service bulletin out.
probable cause excessive camshaft endplay.
fix-replace cylinder head assembly.
first step is to check camshaft endplay-max is .5 mm.

i would worry im 99.9999999999999% sure its mechanical</TD></TR></TABLE>

Yea this is useless, given the guy has to remove his rocker arms, get out a micrometer with a stand and the whole shebang and check the endplay of his camshaft with it as a certain position and fixture. He could definately avoid REPLACING an entire cylinder head, by doing some basic diagnostics. But some people are hard headed. Replace cylinder head and I bet he'll have the same code.

Erratic inputs to the sensor would cause the crazy on/off problems you're having going to and from limp mode week to week. Wires might even be loose. Harness might be rotting. Something far less complicated and sever than replacing a cylinder head

spoonfedcrx

theres no way u can say a honda service bulletin is useless. i was in no way suggesting that he needs to replace the whole head assembly. i was being a dick with the whole 99.9999% because u for some reason are so positive that its not something when you have never even set eyes on the car. I told him to check for camshaft endplay to start. I would assume he already checked the basics like connections and harness at and or around the sensor.

Spoon EM2

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by spoonfedcrx &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">theres no way u can say a honda service bulletin is useless. i was in no way suggesting that he needs to replace the whole head assembly. i was being a dick with the whole 99.9999% because u for some reason are so positive that its not something when you have never even set eyes on the car. I told him to check for camshaft endplay to start. I would assume he already checked the basics like connections and harness at and or around the sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>


if honda has a TSB on the certain code take it back to the dealership they fix it free. if not then u got to wait im askin couple bois i got workin at honda dealership and ill come bak to post hen i find out.

ash4usc09

Thanks for all the advice. I've been on vacation all this week and left it with a mechanic to hopefully figure out the problem so it would be fixed once I was back. Well, I finally received a call from him today. He said he has been driving the car for days and it hasn't cut off on him (of course) and he couldn't find anything by looking. He called a buddy of his who works at Honda. That guy told him that it's the TDC sensor code which means the journals in the head camshaft are running from front to rear which it isn't supposed to do. The resolution to the problem according to him is the repalce the cylinder head for $1000. I've been advised to take it to the dealership to be 100% sure this is the problem. Any new suggestions based on this information?

spoonfedcrx

a service bulletin isnt a 100% free repair from honda unless its under warranty.

I would suggest taking it to a honda dealer to verify the problem and you can always call American Honda and ask for assistance. There assistance will be from 100% on them to a 50/50 split to nothing but it can't hurt to try.

So how much did you want to bet that replacing the cylinder head would not fix his problem? I'm not trying to be a dick but you shouldn't tell someone that it can only be one of three things and definately not something else without even looking at the car and only having limited information. You like to bust peoples ***** cause they suggested a distributor, cap and rotor on a distributorless ignition system. Your help is just as good as theirs. But at least they didnt know any better.

laurla1985

my car has dtc codes... and i was wondering if someone has the magic answers for me? i need to send my pawpaw to auto zone or advance to get me some things

p1362
p1361
p0301
p0303
p0304
p1300

Ehaz01DX

Hey man, I just replaced my tdc sensor yesterday. I also changed my ELD sensor and my tyermostat. I tell you this because I had a very similar symptom. I took my 01 civic dx to Rock Honda in Fontana and got the diagnostic from them. I spent about $130 in parts and saved about $500 in labor by installing them myself. So far, the ride quality is much better and it hasn't given me n e trouble... GL!!!

alecks91

Guys. Sorry to kick a seem to be dead horse, but I'm having this d*** TDC Sensor No Pulse code and I'm to the point where I wish someone would t-bone me at a red light and total out the car. -.-
One day I was driving in town, it lurched. went in to limp mode (no going over ~25mph). I drove to a safe place to pull over, turned off the car, started it. it ran fine for ~5 miles. Then limp mode again. Tried turning it off and back on . No change. drove it a few more miles to a gas station. left it a few hours. drove fine.
Replaced TDC sensor. ran great!... for about 20 miles. Then same thing. Limp mode. Left it a few hours. Ran fine. Until another 15-20 miles. At which point it would not start again even after a couple days. thought I may have installed something wrong, took valve cover off. Checked TDC sensor. Put new gasket and the grey gasket maker on the valve cover. Still wouldn't start. Notice oil leak. Discovered it was coming from can plug. Replaced and fixed that.
Read somewhere that sometimes a bad catalytic converter will end up throwing this code. Couldn't find anything else seemingly simple to do .
Gutted the cat to see if it would work. Also had a small crack about the cat welded back.
CAR RAN SMOOTHER AND BETTER THAN IT HAS IN THE YEAE IVE HAD IT! Noticeably more power. Smoother idling. Amazing. drove it ~20 miles. No more oil leak at all. No crack in the cat. No exhaust leak sound. Car seems 100% brand new. Girlfriend drove it 20 miles to work. Worked like a champ.
Girlfriend got in it to drive home...
Cranked and cranked and cranked. Started. "Ran like s***", then went limp mode on her. Managed to get it to her house. After much cranking, got it to start. Won't run. Just stalls out.
Same TDC sensor code as before. I'm gonna pull my hair out, guys.
I'm reading what y'all are saying, but I'm praying it's nothing that mechanically major.

As a last stitch effort, is it possible I got a bad TDC sensor? is there way I can test
A) The sensor with an electric tester to make sure it's working, and
B) the plug-in on the harness side to make sure it's getting to the ECU?

and I guess after
that, the next stop is the dealership.
It's a 2001 Civic LX
has ~125,000 miles on it.

Please help me I don't want to get rid of the car. But this is killing me

Nemoy8

My 97 civic also showed code p1362, car runs perfect all the time. Only this when on neutral and parked it idles way down, guy at autozone told me it has something to do with the timing but sounds like it has nothing to do with timing, should I replace anything or even drive it until I figure it out??

Clarkscivic802

I'm having an issue with the same code p1361 I replaced the sensor checked the plug on the sensor side I tested for voltage in the plug and I'm getting the correct reading's so I don't think its wiring its not loose checked it twice and yet I'm getting this code still it runs fine on the initial start up then after it warms up it idles rough m stalls taking in a bunch of air and acting like its running out of gas I get the code p1361 I use my scanner and while its running rough i clear the code and it goes back to running good again idk where to go from here

Cindy_s89

I have a 96 Honda Civic ex vtec 1.6 L 4 cyl d16y8 engine I believe. While driving one day the car started to over heat. I was able to get it home and one of the bolts had sheered off in the distributor. Now before this happened my check engine light was already on because of the crankshaft sensor the belt had eaten through the wires on it. So I replaced the distributor and the crankshaft sensor and went ahead and changed the spark plug wires as well as one of them had messed up taking it off to replace the distributor. The car still won’t start and now I’m getting code p1362 and p1382 for the TDC or cylinder sensor which makes no sense since I just replaced the distributor unless I happened to get a lemon. Anyone have any ideas on what the issue may be here? I’m racking my brain trying to figure it out. I do have a multimeter that I plan to use to check the ignition coil and stuff in the distributor.