krisfnbs

02 civic ex auto stock. replaced transmission about 11k ago, and headgasket as well. Near everything you would do with these 2 replacements I did, full tuneup/timing belt/waterpump/tensioner etc

Just the other day got the code P0335(crank sensor). Bought a new one, and replaced it with help of a good friend. We carefully put everything back together and reset the ECU by pulling the fuses under the hood.

CEL light comes back on, and car still dies from time to time and on the highway its misfiring/sputtering.

The only thing I can think of is the new sensor I put in is bad, or my timing belt jumped a tooth?. Anything else it could be? Any way to test the sensor, or the connector plug in the car with a dmm? Im going to tear everything down again and check the timingbelt/sensor, I just dont want to miss anything when I do it.

Happy Holidays.

Almighty-Si

Disconnect CKP and turn the key to on position. With the key on engine off, make sure all accessories are turned off and measure voltage at the battery, this is the standard you will be basing all your measurements against, and is your battery voltage.

Measure voltage at pin 3 (yel/blk) from the 3 pin CKP wiring harness to body ground. Is there battery voltage there? If not you have an open in the PGMFI relay 1, if there is battery voltage there

Measure voltage at pin 1 (blu) from the 3 pin CKP wiring harness to body ground. Is there 5v displayed? If there is, skip to the next step...if there isn't, measure voltage between ECM/PCM connector (31P) terminal A7 and body ground. If there is 5v there, you have an open in this line that needs repair.

Measure voltage between CKP sensor 3P connector terminals No. 2 and No. 3. Is there battery voltage displayed there? If not, repair open in the wire between the CKP sensor and G101 ground.

If your engine timing is in fact correct and your testing passes these tests, it's safe to say the sensor is bad and needs replacement. You need to be careful with this sensor, getting it wet will destroy the sensor.

Goodluck !

Acrdr

With the car running you can reach down to the connector and move wire around and see if it changes
I had a civic with same problem and it ended up being a bad engine harness

krisfnbs

You are so generous, thank you very much. This is exactly what I was looking for! I will post back with my results.

krisfnbs

Ok I worked on it for a few hours yesterday in 10 degree weather. This is what I found out:

I tested all 3 wires and voltages all checked out ok, so I know the wiring to the ECU is good.

I then looked at the original sensor that was removed last week and replaced with a new one and I saw some corrosion so I assumed there is likely some corrosion on the harness connector so I spayed some brake cleaner in it and waited 30 minutes. Hooked it back up to the new sensor that was replaced last week. I then pulled the ECU fuses and started the car and CEL is still on.

With the car still on I tried to wiggle the connector that is connected to the sensor, pulled the fuses afterwards and CEL is still on.

SO.... I decided to tear it all down again. I checked the timing marks and the timing belt did not skip a tooth. It is dead on accurate from when me and my friend changed the belt/tensioner/pump months ago.

I then proceeded to change the new sensor with another new sensor and put everything back together, pulled the fuses, CEL is still on.

So I figure the harness on the car may still have some small bits of corrosion inside the connector......and the connector seemed to be a little "weak" although it clips in... it barely did. So I went ahead and bought this on ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2001-2005-HONDA-CIVIC-CRANK-SENSOR-REPAIR-HARNESS-/221141594094?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item337d10efee&vxp=mtr
I dont need to tear anything down to change this harness which is nice. Harness will arrive middle of next week.

At this point it either has to be this harness, or the ECU correct? I cant think of anything else it could be considering everything else I have done. Please let me know your thoughts.

Thanks everyone.

Almighty-Si

Since you changed the sensor to the second new sensor, have you re scanned the code or are you just assuming it is the same one?

krisfnbs

Yes code was re-scanned, same code.

Almighty-Si

OK just checking...from your earlier posts doesn't seem you were using a scan tool.

Let me ask this, if you clear the code and cycle the key does the code reappear or does it reappear after starting the car?

krisfnbs

I have not done that yet. So I should remove the ECU fuses, put them back in and then put the car in the 'on' position and see if the CEL appears?

I have never cleared the code via hand tool, always with pulling fuses. The tool that has scanned the CEL's both times was from the free check at autozone.

05civic

i had my crank position sensor go out once and when i was asking around about it i was told that there are some civics apparently depending which factory they came out of that would throw a crank position sensor cel when in actuality its the cam position sensor. you might want to look into that. good luck man

krisfnbs

this doesnt seem to make any sense at all, any way to verify this?

Phoenix5

Make sure you are replacing the right sensor, there is the cmp for the camshaft and a whole different sensor for the crank.

krisfnbs

I'm changing the correct sensor.

Phoenix5

Well I mean if you changed the correct one the cel would go away. How does the car run? When my cmp went out it went into limp mode and ran like **** and wouldnt drive over 10mph.

Sounds like a timing issue then, probably off by a tooth

krisfnbs

False. There are many reasons why the CEL would be on even after changing the sensor. The car runs, sometimes stalls, and will start to constantly misfire when approaching 30mph or so. I cant get the car past 40-50mph and its pretty tough to get it that fast.

If you would read the entire post you would see that I checked the timing and it is 100% accurate via the marks on the lower timing cover/crank. I stared at the timing marks for like 15 minutes trying to convince myself it was off by a tooth but it just wasnt.

05civic

When my sensor went out I couldn't rev over 3k

krisfnbs

Same for me, right around 3k is where it starts to misfire heavier. I ordered a new harness, should come in the mail Thursday or Friday. Im hoping the stock harness is just corroded deep inside and thats whats causing a bad connection.

Djratrap

Are you running an aftermarket header? From what you're describing that's what happened when my ecu went out. Got a new one from the junkyard and car worked like a charm.

Almighty-Si

Yes, that's what I meant. Usually if it is a sensor or wiring problem, the CEL will appear without turning the car on. If it appears during cranking or running it's another issue.

krisfnbs

Ok, I will do that. I know the very first time I pulled the fuses and started the car the CEL was off for about 3-5 seconds and then it appeared. I will pull them and put the key on the on position and see if the CEL doesnt stay on(It should light up with all of the other lights and then go out if there was no problem correct?)

I called honda to see if they had the harness and the guy told me the only way to get it is to order the entire engine harness for $508(stupid). I was just curious as this harness is taking forever to show up in the mail.(I know im impatient)

My car has been sitting for almost 3 weeks now from this bullshyt. It's such an inconvenience. I just keep telling myself im probably saving $500-1k~(ridiculous) or more doing it myself vs taking it to the dealer.

Almighty-Si

Exactly. If it's a sensor or wiring issue, it will usually kick the code soon as the key is turned on with the engine off.

krisfnbs

Harness came in the mail today, very excited. Will install it early tomorrow morning.

krisfnbs

Ok. So I pulled the fuses, waited a minute and put them back in. Proceeded to put the key to the 'on' position and all the dash lights came on including the CEL. After a second a few of them went out, but the CEL remained on. Then after about 5-10 seconds the CEL flashed about 4~ times and then went OFF.

I then tried to start the car(have not done so in a while) and the car barely started, and within a few seconds the CEL came on.

Im going to install the new harness tomorrow morning. I will make sure to connect the new wires the in the order they should be connected by doing it one by one so I dont connect pin 1 to pin 2 etc.

krisfnbs

GOOD NEWS!!!!

just installed the new harness and car immediately fired up and no CEL! Must have been the corrosion on the inside of the harness/old sensor. $42 later well worth it! I am so freakin happy right now. Almighty-Si, thanks for hangin in there with me, you really helped me out on this one.

Can you be so kind to tell me the proper way to reset/program the ECU? after the fuses how long do I need to leave the car in idle, or do I have to rev it up or anything?

krisfnbs

Nevermind, I google'd it and this is what I found post #3:

http://www.civicforums.com/forums/18...reset-ecu.html

1. drive car til its warmed up.
2. turn car off, disconnect battery or pull FI ECU fuse out.
3. put fuse back, start car, close hood
4. make sure all accessories are off, do not press any gas or brake
5. just let the car idle for 10 mins by itself
6. turn car off, then back on, and go for a drive like you normally do. it will take usually one tank of gas to completely relearn the fuel trims.