civic over heating sometimes
09-16-2010, 05:57 PM
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civic over heating sometimes
hey whats up everyone i have a 05 honda civic ex and it started over heating in december of 09 so i replaced the radiator cap and refilled the coolent then was driving to vegas and it started overherating half way there so when i got there i replaced the thermostat and radiator cap again cause it failed then way back home it over heated half way again so then took it to a shop to get checked they couldnt find anything wrong with pressure test so now ive been driving it about three months and no problem and then two weeks ago my radiator sprung a leek to replaced that think that was the problem and no it started over heating again today and when it over heats the coolent backs up in to the reserve and over flows all over transmissoin and air box i called honda and they were quick to say blown head gastket but car runs fine and now its not over heating again? what could this be oh and there is also no hot air when car over heating help please
09-16-2010, 06:38 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
i didnt actuly do it the mechanic did it for me but drained everthing out then i think flushed it with water and filled it back up with coolent and then burped it its weird cause this morining was over heating now its fine and now the hot air works now were as befor when it was over heating it would blow hot air
09-16-2010, 08:25 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
ur leaking from ur exhaust n wen ur ride builds pressure it shoots to ur res. tank sorry for the bad news goin to fix mine tommorrow
09-16-2010, 10:09 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Well atleast he burped it, most people don't even actually think that's necessary and they need to be slapped across the head hah.
I'm guessing your head gasket needs replacing.
I'm guessing your head gasket needs replacing.
09-17-2010, 06:58 AM
#7
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Your radiator probably cracked because of all the pressure build up. Change out that head gasket and get the head resurfaced. There's a bunch of other things you'll need to get this completely fixed but i'll assume your mechanic will know what he's doing... (hopefully)
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09-17-2010, 08:26 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
fixin my today i took da head to get shaved n the headgasket was gd n i changed my radiator before the problem came back . i did all those lil fixin before i thought it was my head
09-20-2010, 12:02 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Wow.. So I would definitely try a couple of tests before you pull off the head, or have them done before accepting the warped head resort. These things are really sensitive about air in the system. When there is still air, and it often takes a couple times bleeding then full drive cycles and bleeding again, then whenever the air passes by the temp sensors, the gauge is going to go up fast, then assuming your fans are ok, they may come on and circulate the system around. The water will be much cooler than the air in the system but the air will be much hotter and raise the pressure of the system. High pressure is common but rapid changes in temps will only make higher pressure. Thats what the 'overflow' jug is for, so that the system can relieve over pressure. But now you will have less water in the system and too much air, which will cause overheating quickly, espesially because the boiling tempurature of water in a sealed system is way high and under pressure, but here will be overheating quickly as the air in the system will be so hot, you get stuck in a cycle of reliving pressure to the overflow jug, then being full of hot air, then boiling any water out anytime it gets close to hot.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
09-21-2010, 07:32 AM
#12
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Wow.. So I would definitely try a couple of tests before you pull off the head, or have them done before accepting the warped head resort. These things are really sensitive about air in the system. When there is still air, and it often takes a couple times bleeding then full drive cycles and bleeding again, then whenever the air passes by the temp sensors, the gauge is going to go up fast, then assuming your fans are ok, they may come on and circulate the system around. The water will be much cooler than the air in the system but the air will be much hotter and raise the pressure of the system. High pressure is common but rapid changes in temps will only make higher pressure. Thats what the 'overflow' jug is for, so that the system can relieve over pressure. But now you will have less water in the system and too much air, which will cause overheating quickly, espesially because the boiling tempurature of water in a sealed system is way high and under pressure, but here will be overheating quickly as the air in the system will be so hot, you get stuck in a cycle of reliving pressure to the overflow jug, then being full of hot air, then boiling any water out anytime it gets close to hot.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
Lastly, feel free to do as many air purges as you want... But I am pretty sure that if you have to do it more than 2 or 3 times, then you have blown/warped something. THAT is when you want to run your leak down test to be 100% sure of it and kiss your saved money goodbye.
09-22-2010, 07:12 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
well i mill the head changed the water pump n timing belt. bought the whole head gasket set n timing cover seal ..... great news been driving since sat. evenin n no problem
09-22-2010, 07:15 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
just to give heads up i only spent 175 in parts n 30 bucks to mill the head n 150 in labor . anyone in my area need help or hook up on parts pm me im here to help out us 7th gen crew
09-23-2010, 08:23 AM
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09-25-2010, 03:36 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
09-25-2010, 03:38 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Wow.. So I would definitely try a couple of tests before you pull off the head, or have them done before accepting the warped head resort. These things are really sensitive about air in the system. When there is still air, and it often takes a couple times bleeding then full drive cycles and bleeding again, then whenever the air passes by the temp sensors, the gauge is going to go up fast, then assuming your fans are ok, they may come on and circulate the system around. The water will be much cooler than the air in the system but the air will be much hotter and raise the pressure of the system. High pressure is common but rapid changes in temps will only make higher pressure. Thats what the 'overflow' jug is for, so that the system can relieve over pressure. But now you will have less water in the system and too much air, which will cause overheating quickly, espesially because the boiling tempurature of water in a sealed system is way high and under pressure, but here will be overheating quickly as the air in the system will be so hot, you get stuck in a cycle of reliving pressure to the overflow jug, then being full of hot air, then boiling any water out anytime it gets close to hot.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
But these cars have a failsafe programmed in, and when the car gets to a certain temp it will cut off half the cylinders and go into a limp mode. Then if you keep driving like that and it reaches another higher temp it will cut off the whole ingine. This temp is choses because the blowing of the head gasket or "warping the head", which would have to be replaced not machined, happens above those temps.
But what if you have a bad fan. It will over heat mostly when coming to slower speeds and stops, and blow any of the water that is boiling too early in a system not fully bled right out of the weakest closest place it can find.
But you said you wouldn't have warm air when overheating, maybe because the side of the sytem with that opens the thermostat and isn't near as warm and so the thermostat doesn't open, but the otherside is too hot and the fans come on strong and maybe pull any liquid that was in the heater core away.
But usually when you get wide fluxuations in the vent temps with the heat on, it's a big indication that the coolant system hasn't been bled all the way, or the thermostat isn't working.
Bottom line, you can check for cylinder compression, and cylinder leak down. You can check for white smoke from the tail pipes. You can check the PH balence of the water for oil, to know if there is water leaking anywhere inside the engine mixing with oil, which wouldn't just go out the exhaust, because the when the engine is turned off the water is still hot and will take the least path of resistance which would put it in the cilinders and mix with oil.
Oild in water would be acidic, hydrocarbons, Percent Hydrogen, PH, high.
Sorry for the rant but I hope you don't spend a couple grand till you're sure. And you can find cylinder leak down and compression testers cheap at Harbor Freight Tools. Hope this was helpfull and not annoying.. Good luck.
04-21-2017, 09:09 PM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
04-21-2017, 10:59 PM
#22
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
doing this job at the moment for a friend, gotta say - these aren't all that easy to do. shops taking a couple hundie for labor must just be breaking everything in sight. Like I can do it quick, but then i'd be breaking clips and bending brackets and dumb stuff like that... when I do a job I like for everything to go back where it should, clip in where it should, look completely untouched after
04-22-2017, 07:16 AM
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Re: civic over heating sometimes
Just change the headgasket, dont over think it. If its not the headgaskette then it needed to be changed anyway. I change headgaskettes like most people change oil... soon as a buy a D series i change headgaskett...
First one took me 1.5 hours... now its about 45 minuts...
First one took me 1.5 hours... now its about 45 minuts...
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