resqu417

Im totally lost on this one. Any help or thoughts are greatly appreiciated. Ill start out with what the car is doing.
On start up battery and check engine light come on and alternate flashing about 1 sec each. Whenever the battery light comes on the engine loses power and will stall unless you feather the gas right before it. Also hear some clicking coming from the ECM area. This goes on for about 15 secs the stops then only the Check engine light remains on. Then about 5 seconds later the Tach goes out and then another 5 seconds later the coolent temp goes out. Car shifts extremely hard from park to drive but I can only get manual low2 and third gear by shifting from L2 to drive. Reverse is fine. If you bury the throttle in 2 or 3 the car just jolts until u back off. Another point is if you kust turn the key to the on position and not start then you can hear a clicking sound coming from the back side of the engine, around the tranny for about 15 sec. Once it stops you can start the car up without the idling problem but still have the check engine light and the tranny problem.

So easy fix right, just plug in the obd2 and pull the code. Well the OBD2 wont even connect to the system. Neither will the ones at the honda dealership. The tech said he tried a couple and the laptop and couldn't get a connection. He told me could be a faulty K-Line or bad ECU/PCM or number of other things.

So now for what I've done, I start four months back incase theres somthing that maybe someone has seen before. 4 months ago oil change, drain and refilled tranny and replaced timing belt, timing belt tensioner, water pump and coolent. 2 weeks ago replaced battery. 4 days ago when issues first started had alternator tested, only putting out 42 amps but battery was putting out 14.6 volts but I dropped in a new alternator just to be safe. No change. Yesterday I Ohm'ed out the K-Line (E23 on the ECM) from the ECM to the DLC and got a .08 so resistance is fine.

So basically has anyone ever seen this before. Is it for sure the ECM or could it be a relay somewhere. Im trying to trouble shoot before I go hunt down another one and pay to get it programed only to find out it wasn't the problem. Tech also mentioned possible Crank Shaft position sensor fault could cause the crazy start up and throw the system into open loop and that it was a common fault after water pump changes because coolent gets on the sensor and corodes it but that doesnt explain the obd2 not reading the ECM.

Please guys, DIY's, Tech any and all input would be great!!

Matt

eviee1973

Someone else had posted a similar problem here in the past several months, believe it was their ecm, although I have seen where sloppy techs cause damage to crank sensor wiring harness after changing the timing belt.

resqu417

Well I've done all the work myself. So maybe I was the sloppy one. My first timing belt on a civic. But like I said, I was about 4 months ago

cuonglogan

iTrader: (1)

I had/have the same exact problem.

The ECU is fried and the problem that cause the ECU to be fried is the ELD (Electronic Load Detector).

Here is the service bulletin:
http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/th...c_1298_tsb.pdf

resqu417

So did u have to relpace both the ECM and the ELD. If so did you get a goodwill consideration on the bill because of the HSB on the ELD?

cuonglogan

iTrader: (1)

Yep I had to replace both the ECM and ELD. I originally thought it was the main relay and ordered one and turns out It wasn't, $25 out my pockets for nothing. For the ELD, I just payed the list price. It was around $40. I picked up both ecu on ebay at $50 shipped each from the same seller and payed $40 each to have the immobilizer reprogram

resqu417

Do you have the same civic as me. if so do you have the part number for that ELD

It Wasn't Me

Click Me

Harlowe

I had a very similar problem a few years ago. The alternator bracket broke and somehow caused the ECU to fry. The dealer was stumped too, they first removed my alarm, then replaced the gauge cluster, then the dash fuse box, then finally the ECU (which fixed the problem.)

cuonglogan

iTrader: (1)

2001 Civic LX Sedan.
Also see if your alternator bracket is broken.

Thats funny. My alternator bracket was also broken and still is.
I will fix that once the car is 100% ready to be daily driven. I just have to reassemble and install the passenger airbag and glove box compartment.

resqu417

No the bracket was not broke. But the funny thing is that when all this first started I thought It was the alternator. So I went and got one from the salvage yard and when I popped the hood to drop it in the top bolt that secures it had come loose and so there was some play in it.